adamsimmons

If you ever need to get seals again I bought ones for my charger from a company called Simply Bearings in the UK they were able to match up the correct sizes and specs for a next to nothing kit. I replaced all the seals in my vortech v2 charger for about £15 instead of the ridiculous prices that vortech charge. I hope that this is some help.

from what I understand that was the whole point of having a fuel injected engine, to make sure that you always had the correct amount of fuel put into the cylinders, as it is measured by a fair few different computer controlled instruments, where as a carbed engine doesn't have any of these comodities so it wouldn't be as fuel effiecient. But then again a petrol 2.8v6 is never going to be enviromentally friendly.

Can somebody help me on this one. I've been trying to look around everywhere and can't seem to find the best best for the charger. At the mo I have a 6pk1536 but it keeps on slipping, as the previous belt snapped I haven't got anything to go by. My car has no air-con and has a 6psi pulley. Any help would be great as I'm pulling my hair out after spending about £50 on belts, by buying the wrong ones. Thanks for your help in advance.

Hi Ciaran, I have a coilpack you can have, as far as I'm aware it works perfectly. I took it off my car as I thought it was causing a misfire and bought a new one, but it ended being the headgasket. PM me if you are interested. Cheers

Also try checking these which can also affect starting of the engine when it's warm. Electrical connections - engine/battery Fuel pump non-return valve Fuel pressure/delivery rate/fuel pressure regulator Fuses/fuel pump relay/engine control relay/fuel pump Condition of fuel/fuel filter Injectors Ignition system Air filter Air intake system/vacuum system - leaks Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve Mass air flow (MAF) sensor Barometric pressure (BARO) sensor Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor Engine management system - connections/wiring Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor/camshaf

To make sure that the sensor has gone can you check the resistance across the sensor. The sensor should be white, and you need to measure across pin 1+2 and you should have a resistance between 480-1000 ohms with the plug disconnected, also check pins 1+3 and 2+3 there should be no continuity or open circuit between these pins. If any of these tests show any thing other than specified it will prove that the sensor is faulty. I hope this helps rectify your problem with your vr, I'm sure you will find it soon

I don't think i have seen much over 20 mpg since charging my vr, but prior to that I regularly used to see around 32- 35mpg on m-way and around 22 - 25 mpg around town.

Does anybody know where I can buy a oil return line for this charger, as the one that I had with the kit has broken at the charger end. Cheers for your help in advance

When I bought the car, they guy had replaced the engina as he destroyed the sump on the original one so he had put a replacement engine in, and did the clutch and chains while the engine was out of the car. He had reciepts to prove that it had been done so, not too worried about them. I think he had just done it for piece of mind, as it's easier to do it while the engine is out of the car.

cheers for getting back so quickly, Thank you for the help. Would you recommend anything else to do while the car is off the road, as the engine has only done about 70k, and the chains were replaced just before I bought it, so I don't think it would be worth replacing the chains.

Help me please, anyone

Bore wash is when there is too much fuel ,caused by over fuelling or running rich, in the cylinder and it over comes the lubricant properties of the oil, and causes marking inside the cylinder where the oil can no longer protect the gap between piston and cylinder. I hope that this helps

My car has decided that it would now like to burn water rather than fuel. So have come to the conclusion that I need to replace my head gasket. My car is currently running a vortech v2 superchager at 6psi. I'm never going to run it above 8psi as I think that is enough power to run through the front wheels. Would any body be able to recommend what the best option would be to replace the gasket. Should I get a headspacer to the lower the compression to be safe, or can I just stay with using the standard gasket. What other things would you be able to recommend doing at the same time while the hea

I use mine as a daily driver. It's been very reliable and have had no probs, until my headgasket went on the weekend, but that was due to a very heavy right foot, and giving the car a bit too much abuse than it usually has but otherwise it's fine, other than the fuel bill

I bought some magnecor leads for my VR6 from europerformance. They were 8.5mm and red. They were quite expensive at £110 but I definetly think they are worth the money, and also came within 2 days, even tho that they had to have them special order