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ripstop

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Everything posted by ripstop

  1. ripstop
    Open up the rubber protected loom connections between the door and the shell, its a notorious place to check for broken or almost broken wires. I have an ongoing battle with my rear passenger side window until I bother to fix it.
  2. ripstop
    This sounds like the pump cycling as you brake. I can sometimes feel a slight pulsing, which is the best way to describe it,when i brake hard. This can be normal as long as the ABS light doesn't come on. I had an issue with mine recently where the pump was being cycled on and off and I once nearly went throug a stop junction as it didn't brake at all. The remedy....well I have been working my round the sensors and getting them replaced. The ABS motor hadn't failed but the sensors were driving it nuts. Change the sensors first. My car is 12 yrs old so its expected things like this need changing
  3. ripstop
    Thanks guys.....PM sent Antera309. Considering options and might take you up on the offer of a code reading. Sounds like a seance Cheers Rip.
  4. ripstop
    Okay usual topic, my ABS light is now permanently on and I need to know what that might mean. Anyone wishing to do a quick fault code check for a nominal sum and a beer? Its gotta be cheaper than buying the thing. Don't know how much a garage would charge. Its for a 95 Golf VR6 with the later ODB connection type. should work with HEX-COM+CAN or KEY-USB or KEY-COM connection. I accept that it might point to ECU but need to know the fault codes before I take it to a garage to fix. Rip
  5. ripstop
    I have had several windows issues like this, one involves taking off the door card and unbolting the window carrier assembly from the mounting plates and the other involves wiggling the wires in the rubber wire protector between the car door and the car body. Its unlikely to be the motor as these are pretty reliable. In the first case its possible to jam the window closed and you need to release the tension in the winding mechanism. The problem with that is it usually happens again and you end up having to buy a new winder mechanism. Its also possible that the multi pin connector that fits ont
  6. ripstop
    Now thats encouraging...at least mine doesn't leak goes well and stops fine.
  7. ripstop
    177k...wondering how long it can go on....
  8. ripstop
    You know I fancy doing a garage sale of the running car, all bits for sale....bring your spanners lol....I am still unsure what to do. At the end of the day the car runs fine its really the petrol consumption. Perhaps I could extend its life with an LPG conversion?
  9. ripstop
    I have had my green VR6 (M - pre colour coding) for over 6 years now and am wondering about selling it. No this isn't going in the for sale section yet. I use it every weekday and have clocked up many miles and have been through many trials and tribulations with it, some good, some bad. The problem for me now is would anyone buy it? It's not pristine, but I would describe it as good. Its had a fair amount of tuning, AMD chip, big valve head, schrick VSR, etc etc. It has a few niggly things that either don't work or would need to be fixed if it was for sale or would need to be factored into the
  10. ripstop
    Its a shot in the dark but mine was the same. Don't laugh... but I discovered that if you waggle the cables in the rubber door sleeve/hose on the passenger rear door it began to work. It would appear that there is some connection between the last window that closes and the sun roof. I think its a dodgy wire in that part of the circuit. I can't be arsed to take the door card off to find out but just waggle the wires when it fails. Sounds wierd I know.
  11. ripstop
    I love the big extra spread of power on my Golf3 with the schrick. It just where I need it most for my type of driving with slightly increased torque at the low end but a BIG increase between about 2750 and 4000 where the switch over occurs. I guess I got an increase of about 20BHP through the range with a massive hike in torque or about 40ftlb in the mid range. For most average driving thats where you need it. Peak torque in top equates to about 80mph so it means effortless cruising on motorways. One thing though, before I had the top end rebuild and cam chains done I could notice the inlet f
  12. ripstop
    Well it wasn't the cable....I had to take the unti apart and have a look at the inner workings. The transport mechism/clamping bits had got jammed. It would appear that a severe jolt had slightly bent something so that it wouldn't move the discs in and out. A screw driver and some additional copperslip on relevant parts sorted it. However it won't play the 10th CD. So it works but I think 10yrs old has seen a good life and its time for new one. Roll on Christmas Although I can see a quick trip to Ebay coming up.
  13. ripstop
    I like pictures.....and yes I can 'feel the force' too.
  14. ripstop
    Let me look at my rolling road graphs when I had mine done. Will try to post at the weekend with a pcture if poss.
  15. ripstop
    Unfortunately already tried that....beginning to think its the cable now....going to check this weekend more thouroughly. Thanks.
  16. ripstop
    I got mine done as part of a head refit due to a leaking gasket at 116,000 miles. It made a huge difference to pickup and smoothness. You also need to replace the tensioner friction part as well. Before this, idle was rough and I could feel the switchover on my Schrick VGI at 4000rpm. Now its much happier. After talking to a few folks its something you should really do before you get past 100,000 miles.
  17. ripstop
    Sounds like the cable has broken in the drivers one. It gets used the most and the single drive wire eventually fails. If there is lots of noise and no movement you probably need a new slider/cable mechanism. You can buy this seperately for about 70 quid from VW or look for a scrappy. I prefer to get new for these as you can see lots of peeps have window issues. Take the door card and liner off and have a look. Boy I hate that job. The passenger one sounds like a loose conection, especially as the local switch works fine.
  18. ripstop
    Recently my CD changer and or head unit stopped talking to each other. Its the RESET message on the head unit. I have tried a number of combinations of 2nd hand head unit, CD changer and they still say there is a problem. Is there a special sequence that you have to perform when installing the Sony stuff ie power all off, disconnect from 12v supply attach head unit to changer via special sony cabel...power all up and thats should be it OR is it cream crackered? Units are CRX-5500 and CDX-65 (I think thats original kit for VR6). Answers which are not buy something else greatly appreciated.
  19. ripstop
    I do alot of hispeed commuting with some slow town and country stuff. I didn't want to change things that much or drop it too much. I changed to Koni's cos thats all I really had experience of and droped it about 25mm. I didn't change the springs but bought new VW ones as the others were a little tired. The setting though is on softest (i am a big softy) otherwise I found it too hard. The other thing you must do apart from optional rollbars is to get the front engine mount sorted. The weight transfer at the front in and out of corners with the std mount is terrible, Felt like you were throwing
  20. ripstop
    Thanks for the advice ...will try to have a go at the weekend. The windows and sunroof all work from the switches so I think the alarm closure is beginning to fail. It is 10 yrs old now and could prolly do with an overhaul. Was a decent CAT1 at the time but things have moved on. Thanks for the offer of the wiring diags Scruffy...let me look at the Bentley manual first. Updates after the weekend
  21. ripstop
    Any ideas wheer I look for the wires to the sunroof...are they under the switches in the overhead light unit ?
  22. ripstop
    I have read a couple of threads on window problems and would like to share some experiences and ask for some help. First my problem is related to a full closure alarm on my 95 golf. ALL windows and sunroof close and open normally using the internal switches...however when using the total closure alarm the sunroof stutters, sometimes doesn't close and the rear nearside window doesn't close at all. The rear also doesn't close when using the 'close/open all' key feature. So this means motors are alright but maybe wiring is loose? Answers on a post card plsease Now for some info that I have glea
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