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francisjonno

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Everything posted by francisjonno

  1. francisjonno
    Stealthy Did it take a lot of spray work? Finish as good as you hoped?
  2. francisjonno
    Looks good... how far have you had the arches pulled? From the pics it look like you've managed to pretty much keep the original shape of the aches. PS. thanks for the advice re signature
  3. francisjonno
    Looking very nice Are your rims 16" or 17" x 8.5" - looks nice and fat either way
  4. francisjonno
    Mine did the same thing and it was the starter motor that had gone (about 90k miles)
  5. francisjonno
    Front spoiler just clips on but its a bit of a nightmare to take off (had to take mine off last night so it can get on the ramps for its MOT today!) On some VR6's there's a piece of plastic that stops spray getting on the alternator belt and this has a trim screw (on RH side of car) that attaches to the original spoiler, so this will have to be undone to get the spoiler off (and possibly modified if you get a non-OE new spoiler). Otherwise its a case of pulling the spoiler off from the side first, mine was pretty stubborn and had to use a srewdriver to push the clips down from behind the bumpe
  6. francisjonno
    Some people seem to use individual trumpet "sock" airfilters but I think these have a tendency to disintergrate (not good if it goes down the bores! %-6 ). Personally i'd get some sort of airbox made up - someting that would run the lengh of all the TB's then have a large cone filter on the end sumthing like this ReVerie setup on a caterham (its carbon fibre and v expensive but i'm sure you could get sumthing similar made in alloy:
  7. francisjonno
    As binliner said your inlet manifold and single throttle body are replaced by an individual throttle body and butterfly for each cyclinder, mounted on 3 much smaller inlet manifolds - its similar in pricipal to fitting twin carbs to mk1/2 GTIs although throttle bodies (TBs) use electronic injection. (you need to run an after market engine management system with TBs) TBs are much more efficient than the original VR6 setup as the air follows in a much more direct route to each cylinder with much improved throttle response I'm not sure but in theory torque will be negatively affected by the redu
  8. francisjonno
    rDont know what your mechanic was playing at if he took the cap off the expansion tank when the engine was hot. It would have been the pressure holding the level in the expansion tank down when the engine was hot, but by releasing the cap he's probably introduced air into your cooling system, this would explain the rise in temp To get rid of it: -when your engine is cold (v important) take the cap off the expansion tank, top up very slowly if the level is below min, then start the engine (with the cap off) and let it tick over. As the engine warms up the level will drop as the thermostat ope
  9. francisjonno
    As others have said its probably just the weather.. But VW's tend to steam up if the plastic inner door liners (behind door cards) are torn. So might be worth checking them first (assuming your footwell's are dry) as the door cards come off easily and the liners can be repaired with duck tape, or repalaced if you prefer
  10. francisjonno
    Think I paid about
  11. francisjonno
    I'm with everyone else... last one is the only one thats ok (not worth buying a new bumper for though!) How about smoothing in bonrath air intakes into the lower intakes into your original bumper (see dynamic air intakes at http://www.bonrath.com/e/go.htm ), smoothing the rest and relocating the indicators into the lights? (ie similar to the mattig but a bit more interesting! ) Easier to say rather than do I know, but I reckon it would look good.
  12. francisjonno
    Thanks mate The RH website says they do them with the adaptors to fit VR6 but I'll give Monty's a call see what they can do Ta Jonno
  13. francisjonno
    ... here's what they look like
  14. francisjonno
    Thanks everyone I'm gonna get a set of ZW2 topline's, just need to find the cash....
  15. francisjonno
    Hi All I'm looking at buying a set of RH split rims (8x17), I know you need adaptors to correct the offset (et60 to et35) but do the adaptors also need to correct the pcd to 5x100? I've been looking at the German RH website and it seems to suggest that the wheels have a 5x112 pcd (although my translation may be wrong! :? ) How much do the adaptors cost? Where from? Also, which tyre size do people recommend with 8x17? 205-40-17 or 215-40-17 (my car is lowered 40mm, not coilovers, and I'd like to avoid rubbing as far as poss but don't want the tyres to disintergrate in 2 minutes from being strec
  16. francisjonno
    Hi all. I'm Jonno from Wiltshire. Weapon of choice = 97 Highline
  17. francisjonno
    Is it a good idea to wrap the exhaust? I thought about doing it but isn't there a danger of the extra heat warping the head? (it's only alloy!)
  18. francisjonno
    I know, it was a surprise when i got the printout! I thought the guy ment it was 172 at the flywheel but he promised it was at the wheels and had just checked the rollers against a car that had recently been on AMD's rollers (it produced the same bhp both times) Trouble is, when the problem happens and i'm trying to overtake it feels like the engines fallen out and its got 20bhp!
  19. francisjonno
    Hi Guys My '97 Highline seems to have an intermittent misfire. The problem only happens when the car has been run, then the ignition turned off, then restarted again after a couple of minutes (e.g. stopping at a petrol station). It misfires just below 2000rpm (worse under load), slowly clears as the revs rise and the misfires slightly around 4500rpm. Turning the ignition off then restarting always cures the problem My local independent VW specialist pluged it into the diagnostics and it didn't come up with any problems. I've replaced the plugs and HT leads and otherwise the car runs brilliant
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