this happened to me and every time i accelerated it would bog down and missfire. i soldered mine but coz it was so close 2 the plug it kept breaking and shorting out on the other wire and melted them. so like vr6rob said i would get another plug. stu
thanks mate . it was built for the vw cup and the chap i bought it off sold his race car and so i bought the spare engine. so thats why it was done. stu
hello , just bought a new engine , 2.9 has had crank , rods, pistons and fly wheel lightened. has been machined to high the compression to 11-1. just wondering what cams would b best. i want some think that will idle ok and not lose too much bottom end. any sugestions??? thanks. stuart
hello every one . Is 11-1 compression ok to take a super charger or would it have to be lowered (maybe different head gasket????????) thanks. stuart (clarkie)
can any one shine some light on this... when at speeds of less that 20 mph (in trafic jams ect) the abs starts buzzing then locks up . (so basicly im driving along and the car stops on its own.) Any ideas what this could be coz if i dont sort it soon I think im goin to get jacked up!!!!! lol any help would be much appreciated. Many thanks stuart (clarkie)
i have done exactly the same thing to 2 gear boxes aswell but i did them in 2 months lol as u say they are hard to get hold of. on mine the diff gears smashed through the bell housing and nackered the flywheel and the clutch. u said you have a whole car u are breaking? wot would u want for the engine? stuart
I got a magnex cat -back on mine with a dtm twin outlet and it sounds spot on , not 2 load (as its the engine i want 2 hear not the zorst) stainless steel so no rust probs so yeh i would recomend it. also bigger throttle body does make a difference mine has been bored out 20% and has been gas flowed. also you said about chips, i would go to stealth and get a chip and remap as i no people who have been there and there were very impressed.
check all the wires on the mail loom plug . one of mine was broke and we found a wire had broke after changing EVERYTHINK!! so worth checking the simple things first
mine did that .does the car go in a straight line or does it tend 2 swerv to the left / right? on mine the bolts that hold the wish bone were loose so when accelerating or let off it it moves and made a clunk!!!
any 1 have any idea as to how much i would be lookin at for new cam chains and the runners that they run on? as i want 2 change them as the runner that the tensioner pushes against is pretty much nackered.
do you mean the coil pack has a crack in the outer plastic? that shouldnt cause it as on my old vr it was like that the whole time i had it and i run fine (until i parked it in the trees)
hey . car seems 2 be much better now. i did all the timing ( wot a mission that was) but made no difference but while doin it noticed a broken wire on the main wiring loom duno wot its for. solderd that and seems 2 be good so hopefully it should be sorted. thanks evry 1 who posted for all ya help i appreciate it . tip: check all the simple things first lol
i would defenaltly check the tenchioner as this makde the same noise on mine and the chain jumped a few teeth and bent 5 valves and snapped 1 and the snapped 1 smashed the piston and then stuck in the head along side the spark plug. i would take the tenchioner ont pull it apart and i bet the ruber seel has little chunks out of it.
yep. the plastic cover on the right hand side that holds the plug leads. its next 2 the coil pack. or the other one is on the front of the engine down low to the right of the oil filter ( has a white plug on it )
or make your own like i did! got a cat from a crashed vr , cut it in half with a angle grinder nocked the internals out and welded it bk 2togeather. that way you stil got the hole for the lamda probe. took me about half an hour and cost nout.