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Forget superchargers! How about one of these puppies!!!


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if LHD isnt a problem, buy the EIP kit my friend, its tried and tested! (doh i think that is an EIP kit)

im sure the turbo guys will have my head for this, but when the turbo spools up, it places alot of stress on your engine and gear box, it's well known that turbo's can produce more bhp, but you will spend alot longer maintaining a highly 'tuned' car like that.

cheaper to go supercharged, and c2 will be offering almost 400 bhp soon too.

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actually after looking at the kit, its not a bad deal, turbo's sound frigging sweet too, im guessing the stage 1 has a dump valve (opposed to a diverter valve) so it will make a sweet wooshing sound :).

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let the great super/turbo charger debate commence :)

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yeah, well thats it mate, its a stage one, so no need to really play about with the engine (headgaskets etc) and 280BHP for 1400 quid- although ive yet to find out how the US chip works etc etc.... so ive sent thema mail- I really want a turbocharged syncro. Unfortunately ive priced up my gran and it wont even cover the cost of the manifold....... so il have to save for a wee bit..... maybe give up smoking... ;-)

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If I had a LHD syncro, I'd be well tempted to go turbocharged. I'm sure one of the many tuners in th UK would be able to help you with the map, even if EIP couldn't supply a suitable one.

Obviously, you would need to make sure the engine/gearbox can handle the torque increase, but the precautions would be the same as fitting, say, a stage 3 s/c kit.

Just think about all those Scoobies & Evos you'd be able to blow away!!! Go for it!

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yeah, its a good idea if your a LHD to try for a turbo, bearing in mind that it's alot more stressful on the car (slightly more at stage 1 im guessign), but at the price, its pretty sweet. remember delivery will cost up to 300 pounds and 21% customers fees.

will still work out nicely priced though!

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thats the kit i got first time round, Kinetic motorsport (http://www.kineticmotorsport.com) its a very well made kit with everything you need included. would suit your car nicely warren. like i said, i have the manifold and downpipe here for a small fee if your interested. the only issue you will have is the tuning as i dont think the c2 chips work on euro ecu's. but nothing a piggy back unit wouldnt sort out as with the bigger injectors and maf housing you dont need to tune too much, mainly ignition anyway so plenty of room to play. get saving man. we need the uk to see more VRTs.

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man- i really want one of these now.... January/ Feruary i think i will be going for one of these..... That'll give some time to investigate whats needed and how easy it is to do the job, also what i can do with remapping.

Bahn brenner have just said that this kit wont fit because of the downpipe- however i dont believe this as the downpipe is on the other side to the transfer box.... the debate contimues!!! I WANT ONE TELL ME IT IS POSSIBLE!!

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I've always loved turbo'd VRs, they sound amazing, I prefer that method to supercharging to be honest, but the chargers are easier to implement and I don't like the idea of running a turbo with an IC.

I guess the Stage 1 is a light pressure kit and shouldn't put too much stress on the engine. The VR is good for a safe 300hp before you need to start strengthening the internals, so stage 1 sounds ideal, and if it spools up quickly, then there shouldn't be any undue strain on the rods. That's why chargers are kinder, they're more linear and don't exert any sudden forces onto the rods.

But as always, if you do it right, there should be no problems. Vince always shudders when I mention turbo'd VRs, LOL!, so there's obviously a quite a lot involved, and he knows a fair bit about them, having built a 470bhp Corrado VR Turbo....I think he vowed never again after that, LOL!

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Thanks for that link to that site VRMonster.... Ive found bahn brenner to be all one word answers at the moment, and not very helpful, so i may give this other company a try....

Kev: Luckily the Stage 1 kit is only 280 BHP and 290 lb/ft torque (only!) - around the same as the vortech although the great thing is the tuning potential but i intend to go no more than this- like you say- lots needs to change after the 300bhp and i dont want to go that serious, i need to buy a house soon too....

And the noise will be awesome..... Does anyone know if the C2 chip works over here?? I need to take my ECU out as it already has a chip - im hoping it has been soldered with a piggyback socket already- if it has the port - does that mean its just a case of taking the old chip out andputting a new chip in with an obvious remap?

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VR gearbox and clutch can take 300bhp quite easily and reliabley. If you're going much over that, might be worth considering some upgrades.

Getting the diff pins out and replaced with bolts is pretty much essential imo, the last thing you want is a diff pin to let go hard on the acceleration, which will write the whole box off.

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So whats involved with changing the diff pins to bolts then Kev? I spose its a gearbox out job? Im going to be staying at and sticking to 280bhp when i get this kit.... thats more than enough for me.... :-) Car only get used very little too as its mostly locked in the garage so fitting a turbo will be a nice little project over winter :-)

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You're right, if my VF stage 2 is really producing 290bhp (I'll find out soon) then take it from me, it is most definitely enough on today's crowded roads ;-)

That figure also means you don't have to spend a fortune beefing up the drivetrain. Once you get to 250-300bhp in a relatively lightweight hatch, to get a night/day difference on top of that, you need to go up in 100hp increments.....which equals serious

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LOL thats ironic, eat this says torque eats gearboxes :).

the 300bhp is the limit for most FI vr's unless you spend SERIOUS bucks on other mechanicals.

290 ft/lbs is a LOAD of torque, my charger produces 291 bhp & 264 ft/lbs @ 28 degrees ambient, 1050mbars

it's still a good deal, a turbo will sound good, but you must have the self control, to draw the line at 300bhp, unless you do some serious engine/box work.

My goal is 300bhp, not more, DEFINATELY not less :), but if it means blowing my engine/box up, i'd glady live with what i have.

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a few links to tease ya...

after first fitting, and a little tuning, tried the full rev range of the car. listen to that garrett spool up at 3500 revs

http://www.swankhouse.com/swank/albums/VRmonster/vrt.wmv

and this is what it goes like before and after fitting the kit.

http://www.swankhouse.com/swank/albums/VRmonster/before_and_after_vrt.wmv

and this is what happens if you run 16psi through a standard engine because you connected the wastegate up wrong, lol. looks like a diesel.

http://www.swankhouse.com/swank/albums/VRmonster/unhealthy_VRT.wmv

im ano the verge of getting mine back on the road so expect a load more pics and videos of VRmonster revision 2.

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oh, and kinetic motorsport are the company that designed and make the kits, bahn brennar are just a dealer for their stuff. i think c2 have also started selling the kinetic kits so ultimatetune may be able to sort some pricing out for the kits.

the idea with the stage 1 kit was to give people the chance to go turbo without costing a packet, and with a 9 psi spring in the wastegate will be very fun on the road, should see 280 wheel horsepower quite easily. check the the media sections of the site for loads of pictures of the design/install work.

the kit looks stock once its in there, and is only distinguishable by the recirc valve at the back really, oh and the massive power hike.

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Nerih, damn good figures mate, is that with 10psi?

I wish mine was that good, got some problems with mine :-( As soon as the boost comes in (about 4000rpm) I can feel the engine holding back and it feels no where near the 290hp NSR quote for the 8psi stage 2. I thought it was underfuelling at first and there was pinking occasionally. So I fitted a Walbro uprated in-tank pump (good for 500hp) thinking the standard pump wasn't man enough but there's no difference. I also get plumes of black smoke at the top end on occasion, so I'm now thinking it's over fuelling...13mpg kind of hints at that too! I killed 12 gallons over 158 miles booting it, that can't be right?

I think I should just get a Highline, the OBD2s seem to work so much better with the chargers :-( And the OBD2 2.8 is a much better engine than the finnicky 2.9 too.... perhaps I should drop an OBD2 into my Rado!

Oh well. It's got to be the software as I've checked everything else and done all I can.

What plugs do you use out of interest? I went a grade colder as I feared the spark was being extinguished at the top (had that problem on my 16V golf turbo many moons ago) end but I don't think that's the case, but I tried some NGK BKREIX6 Iridiums and they're nice, engine run smoother on those.

I've got a Supercharger boost guage and it's making about 4psi at 5000rpm (haven't been able to take it to 7000rpm yet), so am I thinking yours pulls very hard and smooth with no hesitation from 4000rpm onwards?

It's still quick though but I'm just not getting the full compliment.

Cheers

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from what the tuners tell me, odb1 is crap, it doesnt even have a knock sensor map....vince tells me he could do wonders with odb2 if i had it....

c2 gave me cooler/pregapped plugs, no idea what they are.

4psi?? mine makes 6.1psi at 5000rpm using a new autogauge i bought and 9.7psi at 6550.

when we had mine fully tuned, i could drive it a few runs fine, then after it got hot, it would feel like a 'misfire' about 3 times above 4000 rpm under full throttle, now its been taken back a bit its fine, unless i m pulling away after idling for ages on full throttle.

its fine during the winter, but its gonna need sorting before it gets warmer.

why dont you send me a PM, i'll tell you exactly whats going on m8, becuase it feels like we are having the same problems.

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early n reg highlines = odb1.

kev, i sent you a PM with two power graphs, 1 taken cold, and the other straight after the first run...you can see 30bhp max power difference, cant rev as far AND the spikes as the knock sensors kick in and retard the timing.

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