Forget superchargers! How about one of these puppies!!!

[FishWick 21]

Yes the output does suffer when the charger gets hot, which is why we need to get water injection. You have a 10psi pulley mate. I'm running 8psi at 7000rpm, 4psi was just what I observed at a quick glance on some busy B roads, may have been a little higher but 4 is all I saw from the corner of my eye.

The yanks generally use 7 or 8 grade plugs due to their climates and the gap needs to be 0.28 for the charger. In the UK, standard NGK platinum 5 grades seem to do the job but the 6s feel better. 7s and 8s can cause cold running hesitancy during the winter.

NSR are taking my car in on Monday for a custom map on the rollers, so we'll see what's happening then as they have wideband A/F measuring.

[Nerih 0]

kev, please please let me know how it goes m8, im really interested.

eat this :- exactly what mine was doing prior to timing retard >4800rpm on the dastek, knock sensors kicked in.

kev seems to be having this ALOT more severely from what he says, it seems like a HARD RPM limit.

i could accelerate through the hesitancy when i was having problems.

this is the PM i sent to kev.

[blockquote]ahh, your car can't handle the boost, i've done ALOT of research on this, and my car's been down to stealth as well to have a ful remap and r&r.

the problem is, a stock vr6 odb1 engine cannot handle more than 8PSI, without intercooling or water injection. ODB1's just are configurable enough (according to vince at stealth), you can retard your timing, (reduce power), or probably better, increase the compression ratio and reduce the charge temperature.

i'm pretty sure your knock sensors are kicking in and retarding the timing (thats assuming ur fueling is correct).

let me know how NSR do, and how they are remapping, are they using a dastek (which is what i have).[/blockquote]

[badboyV6 4]

So the syncro seems like an ideal platform for charging then- as its the 2.9 and has OBD2 functions.... bargain! Whats the score with the chips then lads?? I need to know more about this- im pretty sure my car already has a piggy back socket as its been chipped- if so how much am i looking at for a remap????

[Nerih 0]

tbh, the best way to remap a s/c vr6 is NOT piggy backing, the best way is to get a NEW eeprom from the manufacturer, and THEN if you need, tailor it to your car using the piggy back. Most odb2's are flashable, so some tuners can flash your EEPROM.

costs 375 +vat for dastek inc labour (11 runs on r&r), im guessing about 45 for roller's time and another 40 for the remap...i dont see why it needs more than 2 runs, if its chipped properly.

[badboyV6 4]

that doesnt make any sense fella... Enlighten me :-) the soldered in port which i have holds the chip- this chip can be taken out and replaced with any chip i like (same as what superchips do) unless its an older car/chip whereby it is soldered on and thats your lot.... I had a superchip on my last car, and this had the port where by i couls swap the chip between std and modded maps at will- at a guess i think it was a 32 pin socket.... Is this similar to what you have with the Dastek?? (i have never seen or had any experience of these)

[Nerih 0]

no, the dastek modifys the afm signal, what you have is an eeprom i think, that fit into a chip carrier in the ECU.

the dastek splices into the ecu LOOM and tricks the engine into doing funny things .

[FishWick 21]

The dastek is OK, but less than ideal, you can only take away enrichment and advance , you can't add it like you can with an EPROM.

Yep the Dastek intercepts the MAF signal.

Nerih, Raj took my car this evening and gave me a minter of a MK3 GTI to use in the meantime, can't fault his serive. Anyway, it's looking like my car will end up at either AmD or RP Engineering, some Garrett authorised place.

The problem as you say is heat and OBD1's inability to deal with it. OBD1 has preset knock tables, and they're pretty limited aswell as slow to react. OBD2 has a much broader spectrum of adjustment available in the fuel trimming and knock control. The trick so far with the charger chips is to bung loads of fuel in at the top end, using the extra fuel to act as a coolant and also prevent knock, but too much fuel can also cause knock as it throws the flame front out and it can in, extreme circumstances, literally extinguish the spark, ala the hard rpm cut feeling. I've examined my plugs and the tell tale wash out marks are there, which answers the black smoke at 5000rpm question. Switching to Iridium plugs with a 6 rating helped, but it's a work around and not a solution.

The best permanent solution for OBD1 is aquamist with a custom map. That way you can reduce the fuelling at the top end (using meth spirits or neat methanol) to maintain the flame front. Allard do a VR6 inlet with a chargecooler built in. If you need reassurance this method works, look no further than the Merc SLR. It's charger, manifold and chargecooler are one unit and sit above the engine, it's proven technology.....only snag is it costs

[Nerih 0]

im gonna see how my water injection goes, i think ultiamtetune is sending me a new ECU with eeprom to use, that should help alot.