SankysVR6 1 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 Just changed the timing chain tensioner bolt and this is the one I took out from the car. I was getting a little rattle and was debating whether to get the chains done at some point. After reading post from here and other forums I decided I would change bolt and see what results I get.This picture is of the bolt and how it came out of the car notice its length.This is picture of the length it should be when in normal condition as the new one was.The new compress like a spring smoothly, the old as you can see from the pictures is getting stuck and that's what I believe was causing the rattle IMO. I think it has made some improvement to chain and I am glad I changed it. Link to post Share on other sites
stu h 0 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 cool. nice of you to take pics. purely out of interest, what do you have to do to change the bolt? Link to post Share on other sites
SankysVR6 1 Posted June 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 What I did was put the new bolt in a mug of oil so there was enough oil to go up to the thread of the bolt and the head of the bolt facing up. Compressed the bolt pushing the head and whilst still in the mug to get the air out and also to fill it with oil.Next I took the fuse out for the fuel pump and cranked the engine till it cut out, cranked it couple of more times to make sure the engine wouldn't fire. (You could take the crank sensor off if you know where it is.Remove old Tensioner with a 26mm socket clean engine surfaces, take new bolt out of mug and insert it into the engine by hand and then torque it to it's correct settings.Crank engine gently for a few seconds at a time (about 5 times) replace fuse and start the car let it run and check fir any oil leaks around the bolt and that’s basically it.Big thanks acf8181 and Sedemon for there help and input regarding this Link to post Share on other sites
binliner 0 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 how much was the bolt? Link to post Share on other sites
SankysVR6 1 Posted June 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 I got mine for Link to post Share on other sites
badboyV6 4 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 I just had this done on mine and it was exactly the same as yours - nice cheap and easy fix :-) Very scary though thinking that the chain could have hopped over the cam sprockets at any time!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Seademon 0 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 No worries mate! Im glad I done this 1st as I was thinking of going down the chains route - saved so much money buy doing this - engine sounds like new now :0) No ratlles here anymore! Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 The bleeding process is only applicable to the older hydraulic only style tensioner (OBD1). This type shouldn't be springy at all and to prime it, you need to pass some very thin guage wire down the middle of the piston to release the non-return valve. The OBD2 tensioner is sprung loaded and hydraulic for the very reason that the old hydraulic only ones used to cause chain hopping if the engine kicked back during startup, and there was insufficient oil pressure in the bolt. OBD2 bolts don't do that.And the socket size is 27mm.And no the OBD1 and 2 bolts are not interchangable.Cranking the engine over with no spark or ignition first to build oil pressure is a very wise move! Link to post Share on other sites
SankysVR6 1 Posted June 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 kevhaywire,but surley the bolt i took out should have gone to the same length as the new one and not stuck there until i started to press it. and even then it was sticking at times.as for filling it with oil this was done as a precaution to make sure there was some oil in the new bolt. I got this info from the vwvortex forum. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 do u need to fill an obd2 bolt with oil before u start it is it a manifold off job and do u NEED a torque spanner or can u guess it?? Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted June 3, 2005 Report Share Posted June 3, 2005 you don't need to, but its a safe move i reckon.i heard that obd2 bolt will fit in obd1, can't confirm though. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted June 4, 2005 Report Share Posted June 4, 2005 where is the bolt on the engine? pics would be great and if i unbolt it to check it will it just bolt straight back in without fillin it with oil??????ps would taking the wiring harness off the coilpack suffice to crank it without firing?? Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted June 4, 2005 Report Share Posted June 4, 2005 pete has a pic...i sent it to him the other day! Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted June 12, 2005 Report Share Posted June 12, 2005 im considering checkin this bolt as im bloody paranoid and my engine IS noisier than inghams is it piece of pi** to do and will takin the wiring harness off the coilpack and crankin it a few times do the trick>> ps will loads of oil p out when i undo it and where the hell is it lol Link to post Share on other sites
SankysVR6 1 Posted June 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Very little oil will come out if any, and it\'s just above the coil pack at the back of the engineabout here. Link to post Share on other sites
ingham 5 Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 OBD1 and 2 bolts are not interchangable.ends are differant Link to post Share on other sites
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