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bodge's bodge build, (french tailgate and rust repair guide)


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Hello.

Ive got a new car so I thought id post some pics up of what ive done to it. Some before and after pics...

The day I got it back from london. Its rust free and got no dents. Theres a few little dings NUFF stone chips the odd scratch but doesn't look bad.. Its a 1.8 driver at the moment and cost me £700

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Few days later and I added the coilovers off my old VR, Mk4 headlights, Removed that red line on the bumper, painted the fogs, removed the rear boot spoiler, badges, wiper, fitted my debadge grill, smooth boot plinth and single wiper

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Then off with the old pooey nail 4 stud drum brakes and on with the new VR brakes. Polly bushs everywhere I could bodge them, Braded lines, new brake pipes, green stuff pads ect. Gave it a lick of paint while i was there (have no idea why lol) Also all the VR seats streering wheel glove box ect has gone in it

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Going to get a few more pic of it after a good clean polish and wax

Quick before and after shot

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Next thing I want to do is smooth and paint the plastic bumpers as they look pants, Should look somthink like this I hope (did this on paint lol)

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Thats it for now.. Will update when I do more to it

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  • 2 months later...

Just started to smooth/ french my boot. Thought id try and do a guide for anyone interested in doing it

1st Remove the badge and keep this bit as its the prefix size to make your plate

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Draw round it and cut out of 1.5mm steel with jigsaw

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File to make for a good fit, You want to make it sit as flush as possible without it sticking out

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Grind away wiper hole till flush

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Remove paint around badge hole to be welded

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You need to protect the glass as welding splatter and grinder sparks melts into the surface, I used thin ply as cloth didn't do the job

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Tack weld the plate in

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Fully weld plate, Do a few spots welds at a time and cool with cloth, This stops the metal distorting with the heat

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Grind welds off smooth so there just below the surface of the tailgate skin

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P38 filler used on top (1/2 hour to dry)

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Rub down 120 grit, Then coat of high build filler.primer, Finish with 600 grit, Use block to get a flat surface not your bare hand. Did a quick coat of paint to protect it and see if its level

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Today

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lol hope so but ive never smoothed anything before, Done abit of welding and panel repair in the past tho so it kind of helps. Ill find out if its any good once painted and in the sun light :S

Done abit more

Cardboard template, Turns out its just a 48mm strip of metal, No awkward shapes to work with

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Tack welded to get square

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Fully tack welded

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Realy take your time hear, I worked 1" at a time cooling with wet rag but it still wasn't enough

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Fully welded

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Grind welds off flush

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Have a perv lol, Note the distorted metal, This means more filler later on :-( , Note really ideal

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First layer of filler, Best to work in thin layers and build it up, quick rub down between to find where more needs adding

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More filler on low spots

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Rub down and even more filler

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coat of high build primer to see if its flat and shaped properly, Light coat of black shows up low spots when you rub it down

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not quite right yet as you can see, Look at the line that travels across the tail gate, Getting this strate is quite hard and takes abit of time

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Quick coat of black to see what it looks like shape wise, Still loads of imperfections but doesn't look to bad

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Cheers dude. I'm nearly there now. If i'm honest it has got abit scary at times and i questioned if i should have started it in the first place :-d

I'm not in any rush as im kind of liking the red tail gate for a rat rod kind of look lol

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Next few days and the tail gate should be on and i can give the car a good clean

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  • 2 weeks later...

right, rubbed it back down again

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Now more happy with the shape wipe over with these, You should do this before every coat of paint

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Let dry and then another coat of high build

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1 Hour for that to dry then rub down with 600

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Note have ive left the line to do last

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Not quite happy there so i added another layer (i blame it all on the welding lol)

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Finally happy with it, Flat the line with thin strip as to not make the flats uneven

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Now i pushed the seals down and im going to flick them back up with the knife after its fully dry

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Clean all the shizzle out

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Masked up for Grey primer

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Two coats of Grey primer, 15 minutes between each coat, Leave to dry for 24 hours

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First light coat of black

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Two coats after, Leave 15 minutes flash off time between coats

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Leave 24 hours and flat down with 1200 grit to take gloss away from surface

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Two coats of lacquer, 15 minutes between coats

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DONE lol :-d

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:-( Nope it isn't tbf, I wasn't inspecting it to be perfect been out of spray cans, 80% of the time its covered it dirt anyway lol, After 2 weeks when its dryed im going to cut it, polish it and wax it and it should look better but def not factory standard

When I can afford it im going to buy compressor and do the red one, Probably doing somthing a little more unique with it, With a proper spray gun i should be able to get a thicker more glossy finish, The spray cans didn't seem to put in on thick enough, Failing that get a body shop to put a proper coat on or wait until i can afford a full respray

Im thinking about doing the bumper next with spray cans? What u think, or should i wait till i can get a proper coat of paint??

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i've done various panels with spray cans and to be honest with decent prep work and plenty of time and effort with the flatting, cutting and polishing, you can get quite a decent finish. obviously not as good as a propper job but good enough to not be noticeably shite!!

I do have a massive compressor and all types of guns, but unless you have a booth / oven, you still have to rely on the trusty polisher to finish things off. you really can pollish a turd ;-)

Just dont skimp on the clear coat / laquer, you will never get a decent shine without a good coat of it.

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  • 1 year later...

lol thought id lost this tread. cheers mate.

Made a 2nd one now, Its deeper and ive chopped as much weight as i can out of it. :) and got some hella all reds

Changed quite a bit tbf

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stripped out carbon bonnet ect. still a bit of a nail but it will get there

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hidden brake pipes, bias valve in cab battery in boot

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