LadVR 0 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 When i have finished re-building my engine i plan to run the engine in, N/A before bolting on the turbo stuff. Will be ok to do this? Reason for doing this is that if re-install the motor with all the new kit on it and it doesn't start or run right, i figure i've got a load more variables to check. Link to post Share on other sites
jaysVR6 2 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Your car will run fine with low comp pistons in it. It'll just be slightly down on power. Link to post Share on other sites
LadVR 0 Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 cool, cheers mate Link to post Share on other sites
sparkz 0 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 You can run your car with the turbo setup when you are running it in (as im going to be) just keep it below 3000 rpm (hard i know ) but it will be well worth it in the end!! What ecu are you running? Obd1 or 2 Link to post Share on other sites
LadVR 0 Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Cheers for the advice, reason i'm running it without the turbo stuff is that it my first full engine rebuild i've done myself, literally i have got a 1000 piece jigsaw in the garage!! so i figured if i put it back in the car and get it running ok sgsin then i'll bolt on the bits, cos if it does'nt run there's more variables to check. (really cos im a bit skint!!!)im running OBD2. i think i may go aftermarket when i get the cash at a later date... Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I've got a 2.9 low comp bottom end in mine. 218BHP its running atm, without a remap, and running stock cams again. Feels a little "flat" off the mark, as you would expect, but once it picks up, it's fine. just waiting for my charger now !Pete Link to post Share on other sites
LadVR 0 Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 That should go nice mate when its done! Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I ran my 3.0 litre in aggressively. 3 Full throttle runs to 6K in 3rd gear, and then coast down to 2000rpm again in the same gear to keep the bores heavily lubed. You have a very short window of oppurtunity to get the rings cut into the bores properly before the honing wears away. Engines bedded in this way always make more power than those bedded in using the manufacturer's methods.....but manufacturers have long engine life and long service intervals to consider, us modders and performance drivers don't care about that ;-)If you're worried about wrecking a new motor, don't go as mad as I did, but at the same time, don't ginger it. Link to post Share on other sites
LadVR 0 Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I ran my 3.0 litre in aggressively. 3 Full throttle runs to 6K in 3rd gear' date=' and then coast down to 2000rpm again in the same gear to keep the bores heavily lubed. You have a very short window of oppurtunity to get the rings cut into the bores properly before the honing wears away. Engines bedded in this way always make more power than those bedded in using the manufacturer's methods.....but manufacturers have long engine life and long service intervals to consider, us modders and performance drivers don't care about that ;-)If you're worried about wrecking a new motor, don't go as mad as I did, but at the same time, don't ginger it.[/quote']Not sure i'd have the balls to do that!!! I always thought it was best to bed things in gently? Or is it one of those 'two schools of thought' topics?I suppose as machining technology and accuracy has increased over the years the need to run an engine in has decreased.... Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I ran my 3.0 litre in aggressively. 3 Full throttle runs to 6K in 3rd gear' date=' and then coast down to 2000rpm again in the same gear to keep the bores heavily lubed. You have a very short window of oppurtunity to get the rings cut into the bores properly before the honing wears away. Engines bedded in this way always make more power than those bedded in using the manufacturer's methods.....but manufacturers have long engine life and long service intervals to consider, us modders and performance drivers don't care about that ;-)If you're worried about wrecking a new motor, don't go as mad as I did, but at the same time, don't ginger it.[/quote']Kev I agree 100%. I have done this a few times too....As above, the rings are bedded in within the first 20 miles or so, you want to bed them in with the pressure they'll br used with - ie boost.big end shells etc are non contact, no need for bedding in there...My method. Get it running. Get it nice and hot. drive it like you stole it, on boost with varying revs, and let it coast down from time to time. I'm not saying flat out everywhere, but drive enthusiasticly and dont be afriad of boost.Do this for 20-30 miles.Change oil. Drive more gently than normal, but dont be scared of it - just avoid long high load pulls. again dont be afraid of boost. do this for 200 miles.Change oil.Done.Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Re the "Manufactures guidlines". this really is just to cover themselvs. On a new engine if somethings goona let go due to manufacturing prob it'll most likely do it in the first few 100 miles. This is less dangerous (and expensve for them) if its done at lower rpm and speed.Bear in mind all engines will be tested in the factory - the normal way is to increse revs in steps every 10 secs or so. Your brand new gotta-be-run-in-gently engine has most likely been on the limiter in the factory for at least 10 secs with 0 miles on it....Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 can you fit new rings to an old engine ie 100k plus? Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Yes, but hone the bores. You can buy a de-glazer/honer tool from halfrauds that'll do the job, get rid of the shine and a nice new pattern on the bores - will take about 4/5mins on each bore, clean them out complelty, give them a wipe with fresh oil, gap the rings, and your off.Dont get me wrong - i'm not saying you need new rings to turbo an old engine. My first VRT i bolted it straight on to an 80k engine with just a spacer, no probs. Just if you are building a brand new engine then its best to bed the rings in as they will be used to get the best out the engine. I wouldnt for one minute say its worth re-ringing an engine for the sake of it if theres nothing wrong with them.Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 im running a 12 psi supercharger on a 103k engine its a tiny bit smokey occasionally on overrun i assume the rings are starting to wear a bit its not down on power in the slightest so it aint knackered just yet lolis honing roughing the bores up a bit?? Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Yep! Honing also traps oil, so think of the bedding process as the Rings "wet and drying" themselves to the bore shape ;-) As Tom says, 20 miles is all have to do this and purists would problably lift the head, rehone and rering and do it again if they miss the 20 mile window! Link to post Share on other sites
lee060 3 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 im learning im learning , :D . kev and tom you two are true genius's . the knowledge i pick up from reading what you two write you wouldent belive , i always thought engines had to be run in gently , 500 miles not above 2500 k change oil then same again for 500 miles then change oil . Liam Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 I'm no genius, I just read a lot :-) Most of my turbo knowledge was kick started by Tom actually and the rest I've picked up over the years :-)This website is where I got my bedding info from and also Bill Schimmel. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmCheck out the differences between pistons bedded in the hard way and ones bedded in the soft way!The gentle bedding is a legacy of old, low tech engines and as Tom says, to cover manufacturers backs. Modern metals and tighter machining tolerances have practically done away with the need to bed engines in gradually.My girlfriend's Dad used to work for Mercedes, in the department responsible for making brand new cars sent over on the boats sellable!!! A lot of 'new' cars needed panel work, resprays, replacement glass etc etc due the rough treatment they got during shipping, and that includes thrashed engines from new. You think you're buying a factory fresh car from the forecourt? No chance!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 do you class the 12v vr6 is a new or older tech engine?? Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 It is a bit old tech, but VW over engineered that particular engine, so is OK to blast from new. By low tech I mean pre unleaded days really, so anything before 1983.BL A series, O series, early Ford CVH.... that kind of motor really.Most 90s motors were made with tighter tolerances as to not destroy the cat with excessive fuel and oil consumption. These are the kind of motors you can run in hard and the 12V is in that category ;-) Link to post Share on other sites
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