tkoral

I connected my multimeter to the ignition coil lead wire to the dizzy.

I get 12v when the key is in the on position. When I cycle the key for a engine start the voltage with that lead drops to around 7v.

I am unable to gather any faults. I do not have vag com unfortunately.

I will try to see if I'm getting a signal from the hall sensor tonight. I know I am getting 12v power and 5v signal from the plug that attaches to the hall sensor.

I finished up a full rebuild to my 2.9 VR6 and now it will not get spark to the plugs.
Coil wire has 11.8v to distributor.
Crank sensor shows 900 ohms
Female plug that connects to the distributor shows 12v on one pin and 5v on the other.
Unable to get any ohms reading across the hall sensor male connector pins.
Did my hall sensor go out or could it be a fried ecu?

Thank you for the link Philly R6! And also thank you for your input.

I believe only the shipped ECU (matching part number) will work with the car.
If you change the ECU for a later one, some wiring and sensor changes will be required to match. And if it has the fuel immobiliser (unsure if your ECU does) this will need pairing with the new ECU, also.
 
VagLinks has a PDF listing ECU numbers: http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Catalogues/VW-Audi_ECU_ModelsPartNumbers.pdf
There used to be a page on the Canadian Corrado Club site, but its gone?! http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/vwecucodes.htm

I tried an ag (early coilpack) on my cp (late coilpack) and it didn't work plus plug wouldn't fit unless I cut a tab off.
You will need matching ecu

That was quite a bit of info RBPE really appreciate all of that info!

A bit of extra lube is always good! 
 
I can't see why a decent aftermarket tuner like Schimmel wouldn't do their homework in part development, probably a lot better than oem! Not sure why oem has such a high regard either, when I researched the material specifications VAG used for engine parts in manufacturing, it was your typical cheap ass factory vehicles way! Engineer's might want to use top spec material but the money men get involved, spec the preferred material down for cost to the point it just about does the job it is intended for and then use that material/forgings etc across the board on other cars to save further costs!
 
Really was poor compared with what you can spec up in aftermarket and the custom materials you can get nowadays!

I can't seem to decide which of the two I should go with. Schimmel main bearings have oil grooves on both halves where oem only has it on one bearing half. I'm just worried of what the schimmel bearings are made out of compared to the oem material.
Any advice or info will be greatly appreciated.

I used 282's with standard head https://youtu.be/dP01L2cn4E0

Thanks for the reply Pete I may put the pcv breather hose back in but the way I deleted it would make it impossible for any kind of oil to make it in to the intake manifold.

Only smokes when the motor warms up. I don't hear any piston slap whatsoever. It's just odd that it smokes at idle if it is the valve stem seals.

The oil that is in it is 15w40 non synthetic

Thanks for the advice on everything Pete I will be seeing what number she gives me in each cylinder after work