dubvr691
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Posts posted by dubvr691
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100% Eezibleed when doing anything with fluids on the VR, let us know how you get on
It's looking like it's going to need a new clutch, possibly stage 2 carbon Kevlar, think iv properly glazed the organic one that's in atm, it's not biting much at all anymore not even enough to get through the garage ramp out the yard atm, probably will get one when ordering next clutch -
Had a new battery fitted after clutch & flywheel change, all was well initially on 1st stationery start up, till I tried to move,N would immediately cut off as catching the biting point, realized that I'd trapped the front nock sensor wire under the front mount, after freeing the cable all was well, apart from a rough idle, had the earth wires fitted incorrectly, after rectifying it was alright, had a lil local drive last week and no issues, got home in one piece
Broke down today though driving along normally n all of a sudden speedometer dial started clicking followed by pointers flickering up n down then straight cut out, had it jump started but wouldn't hold charge on idle, soon as get off the gas battery meter indicated a drop even with all lights & stereo off
what could this posibly be ?¿?
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Yup getting to know that now, nice 1 thanks, something new to deal with tomorrow, cheers
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1st time bleeding, didn't know of any other way but pump the pedal n close valve
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Sweet cheers keep that in mind, you mentioned 15psi, is that pressure fluid is pump to ??
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Does that kit fasten on to the bleeder valve or reservoir top?
Yea I'm a big stupid like that n kinda got a heavy foot n might be an angry driver -
Not a charged vr but I had to do a gearbox change after mine blew a hole in the casing.. and it needed about 500 miles to fully settle.. it would slip with power.. it was so frustrating.. I was racking my brain and about to pull the box out again but didn't have time before I had to take the car on a decent run.. it was fine after that tho.. Peddle was also a lot lighter than with the old one.. think it was a Sachs clutch..
Your 1st drive on new clutch, did you take it extra easy or went 4 it -
Same as what I'd taken out
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Normal organic something clutch
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I'm not 100 % sure what fluid it was, had same'ish colour & smell kinda took his word for what it was.
when bleeding, the cap on reservoir should be closed right ? -
I'm pretty sure the breaking in period is only for the clutch plate to bed in. It shouldn't be slipping regardless. Have you tried bleeding it up again? What kind of peddle are you getting?
Peddle Used to feel alot stiffer on the old clutch n biting point was little wider and further back then it is now
all 4 parts are new pressure plate through out bearing clutch & flywheel
No only bled it out the once on both sides could it be the wrong fluid inside it might be wrong?
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Peddle Used to feel alot stiffer on the old clutch n biting point was little wider and further back then it is now
all 4 parts are new pressure plate through out bearing clutch & flywheel
No only bled it out the once on both sides could it be the wrong fluid inside it might be wrong? -
Got a supercharged vr6, just had new lightened flywheel & clutch fitted, still seems to be slipping in drive n just revving over without actually delivering any Power or drive
If I really really really granny drive I can get it to eventually pick up speed without it slipping, but who with a supercharged vr6 can bare that...
What exactly is this break in period and how exactly am I to go about it, on the parts info sheets it mentions 500mile break in period? ? ?
Anyone know anything about this
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Got a clutch master slave cylinder for a t4 instead of the vr6 version, can I still use it by just taking the loop end off?¿?
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If you can see the chains, find the timing mark just to be on safe side since it's open anyway yeah sometimes a quick clean n tighten up is all it needs but check the cable too, had similar issues with engine nock sensor end of cable being loose, -
p1347 is bank 2 cam/crankshaft sensors. os. sign. out of sequence so im guessing its the cam sensor. I have taken it off and cleaned it, swapped it with bank1 but have not tested it yet, im pretty sure I got to take the cam cover off to get to the chain cover and looks quiet complicated on these engines, ill let you know how it goes. thanks T
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it drives fine could it be the cam/crankshaft sensors, I have swapped cam1 with cam2 to see if that works, is there anything else I could try as a rookie mechanic, many thanks T
I'd say to search the Web for what you're codes are representing 1st or get a garage to run it, that would give you more of a specific point of view as to what is causing the issue, after that it's up to you though how confident n competent you feel towards tackling it -
thanks. I think the timing out. do you know if it could damage the engine driving it as the pistons and valves could smash together, its a ford galaxy vr6 2004? many thanks T
Any engine out of sync on timing can be potentially catastrophic depending on the amount it's out by, best to get it re clabrated n timing set ASAP without any extra miles being put on unnecessarily, if you can hear it nocking or idle has gone rough already best not to drive it any further till rectified -
hello all, can anyone tell me what camshaft is bank 2. is it the top camshaft or the one nearest the bottom as I got a fault code p1347??? thanks T
Pretty sure the intake starts at front left then stagers across, so second intake is far left back then back to front next one along, thers the 2 cams at the top short n long being front n back, at the bottom is crank shaft only, think thers a vagcom list online of fault codes if you Google it -
hello all, can anyone tell me what camshaft is bank 2. is it the top camshaft or the one nearest the bottom as I got a fault code p1347??? thanks T
Pretty sure the intake starts at front left then stagers across, so second intake is far left back then back to front next one along, thers the 2 cams at the top short n long being front n back, at the bottom is crank shaft only, think thers a vagcom list online of fault codes if you Google it -
By all you mean?
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You have something terribly wrong.
Yeah tell me about it, we'll iv ordered a replacement master cylinder, hopefully it'll be what it takes to solve this issue -
Yeah thers a fair bit of pressure in it, but while fastening am I to have the clutch pedal pressed before fastening, because atm iv put it back together but the clutch keeps slipping drastically in drive and is simply not putting any Power down at all, nothing past 3000rm its just slipping on, I understand iv to bed the clutch & flywheel in over next several 100 miles, but would a fresh clutch be a reason for it to be slipping like this or have I got something wrong with re assembly
Breaking in period on clutch and flywheel
in Transmission
Posted
In you dp you've got a supercharged vr6, is that just a pic or your actual car ?