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reynolds9000

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Everything posted by reynolds9000

  1. I have deleted a/c on my 12v and am using a one sided ribbed belt. I will go double check but I'm almost positive my power steering pump pulley doesn't even have groves and the belt stays perfectly centered
  2. I'm located in the USA but here is an example.. these are for mk4 VR6 but are identical to your Passat VR6, only difference is that these have a loop for your finger to pull the boot off the plug whereas the original wires for your 94 require a tool to remove boot from plug. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-09488-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000BYENNA
  3. very much possible to buy new ones. does the car have a distributor or a cool pack?
  4. forgot to add that the front and rear arches are completely rolled flat and front camber is at full negative. I never measured in degrees, I just loosened the strut at the steering knuckle and pushed all the way in and tightened it all back down. set the toe based on my eyeballs and my fenders and got pretty decent tire wear and fairly good tracking given the negative camber.
  5. when I had ML's.. I miss them. specs were 16x9 all around, ET25 front and ET15 rear. I used 205/40/16 Falken 512's which are NLA.
  6. I think you could cut the power to the alternator by undoing the grounding on the transmission bell housing but it seems like it would be pretty tough to get to it while the engine is running. I'm always afraid of getting chopped up by the cooling fans sticking my arms into a running engine bay. could you remove the alternator pulley and put a shorter belt on for the temporary time being?
  7. it's the blue 2 pin sensor for anyone searching this problem in the future.
  8. it is definitely a better design than the metal and riveted composite version that came in the engine originally.
  9. the best option is to go with OEM parts. VW updated the upper chain tensioner guide and tensioner bolt. as far as I know there are no aftermarket solutions to the wear/tear on timing chain guides.
  10. The check engine light in my 1995 GLX turned on and using a jumper wire to blink the code is have determined it's 2312 - coolant temp sensor, but which sensor? yellow 4 pin? blue 2 pin? brown 4 pin? I have no cooling issues with this car aside from the CEL. water temp never exceeds 190F and oil stays around 208-10F. I just replaced the auxiliary water pump as it was non functioning. Don't know if that has something to do with it. after clearing the CEL it turns back on every OTHER time I drive the car. I have replaced the yellow sensor with a new updated blue version but seemingly to no avail
  11. ported exhaust manifolds, techtonics tuning down pipe, 3" cat cat delete pipe, and 3" Mandrel Bent Solutions exhaust system..
  12. sorry the quality is bad, they were originally 1080p but compressing the files to format ruins the quality
  13. https://vimeo.com/134986559 https://vimeo.com/134986745 couple of quick videos. one is lower revs the other is higher revs.
  14. yes, I'm very familiar with Dragon Green Pearl and I was heavily considering it for my first respray but cost was the deciding factor so I stayed with the original color. I love dragon/emerald green. such a classy color
  15. it can also ruin oxygen sensors and catalytic converters depending on if your car is still equipped with those emissions items or not.
  16. fuel pressure regulator? are you using larger injectors than OEM?
  17. when I did the VR6 conversion in my car I spent 3-4 hours bleeding the clutch system just to get the pedal to firm up. Glad to hear you got it sorted, or mostly sorted!
  18. it's LG6S for Sequioa Green. It's not the OEM paint, I had it fully resprayed in 2010 and it's actually about to go back into the body shop for rocker panel replacement and another complete respray. I wish LG6S had pearl in it, maybe for the respray I will look into Emerald Green..
  19. the symptoms of slipping clutch combined with the high pedal engagement still leads me to believe it's a hydraulic issue. assuming that the pressure plate was replaced along with the clutch and the flywheel has a fresh machined surfaced it is unlikely a brand new clutch would slip unless clutch disc has somehow glazed. it still wouldn't explain the high pedal engagement. I suspect that slave cylinder seal has torn and is allowing air to be drawn into the system with every push of the pedal.
  20. the theory behind the clutch not being properly bled is that if any air bubbles are trapped in the line, it will prevent the slave cylinder rod from returning to its "full disengaged" position. even a slight bit of air will cause problems for its clutch engagement. I always use a Motive Power Bleeder but before I had one I would reverse bleed the slave cylinder by pumping brake fluid into the nipple on the slave with an old school oil can with the hand pump on top.. the idea is to force the brake fluid into the lowest point of the system, thus pushing any trapping air out through the brake res
  21. can you clarify where on the inside of the casing you're getting the number? as far as I know, 4 cylinder versions of the O2A are not compatible with VR6. as far as the clutch catching at the top of the pedal and sipping gears, the clutch needs to be bled. it can be tricky to get all the air bubbles out. with a brand new clutch and flywheel the clutch pedal should be engage very low to the floor
  22. I've made a couple posts but have not formally introduced myself. got my first mk3 in 2003, a 1997 Jetta GL, originally with the ABA cross flow 2.0 8v engine, now a VR6. I still have the car. In 2013 I purchased a one owner, very good condition Candy White '95 GLX and use it as my daily driver. The sequoia green one is my baby and seldom sees daylight. the daily:
  23. depending on which cams you choose you may need to upgrade the valve springs. definitely replace lifters while you're in there. new valve cover gasket while the cover is off..
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