RBPE

VR6OC sponsored Ed Keech putting in some good times at Big Bang 2016, Also keep watching for VR6OC Sponsored racer Dave Lea too in his black VR6!
Check out their pages on Facebook to keep up to date of the 2016 season!
Dave Lea - https://www.facebook.com/15DegreeRacing/?fref=ts
Ed Keech - https://www.facebook.com/caseracinguk/?fref=ts 

Lol, you know, every time I did them I thought "that's not the right angle"! I'll try and have a do when I have time - I don't do this for a living I build cars so was just having a play really

Cheers Cabbs. 
Times the flow rate by 10 to get a rough estimate of max hp rates here - it's actually more like times by 9-11 which depends on the efficiency of your set up but use as a guide.
 
 
EDIT; Oldy ref!
 

Possibly but would take a while. To put them on backgrounds you tend to have to cut around the image so with all the flames etc I'd have to spend time doing it - will try a few some point this week

Basic guide to explain why your car is going "bat s^&t crazy"!
Your ecu, regardless of car, uses a lot of sensory inputs to make it work, how it does this is a part of a recalibration/remapping thread I am doing and too complex for here. Suffice to say, if these sensory inputs are not correct or make no sense to the ecu, it doesn't like it and throws a wobbly! Due to the fact that many sensors can be used for the ecu to check in one area - i.e. it looks at 2 maps with engine rpm v's coolant temp on one and engine rpm v's voltage on the other, it is essentially looking at 3 sensors here. 
The crank sensor tells it the rpm, the engine coolant sensor the temp and the voltage used for things like sensor readings as well as ignition/injection latency etc...
Point being, as a number of sensors are used/intermixed within the ecu to work something out; then; a) what is happening may not be truly indicative of what is causing the fault, and  one sensory input fault can cause a number of fault codes so try and find the right one first to save £'s!
Almost all the time it is either a problem with a sensor or something is causing a sensor to read some weird readings it doesn't like! The math doesn't add up if you will!
So these are a list of common sensors of the Motronic -  quick post up off top of my head and model/ecu variances etc; point out any I've missed;
MAF/HFM Sensor
02/Lambda sensors
Coolant temp sensor
Crank and cam position sensors
Spark plug damage/coils/coil packs
Throttle position sensor/pedal box sensors - ME7
Intake air temp sensor - IAT
Manifold absolute pressure sensor - MAP
Idle stabilization valve - ISV
So - once you understand why it's going mental it's time to find the cause! Two things I would start with;
Leaks of some kind can cause air or air related problems and the ecu's trying to work out air/fuel calcs so air that shouldn't be there it'll have a strop! It's free to check this, either visually by looking at it or perhaps the old hose in water trick looking for bubbles? First thing I would recommend really as it's free n easy like yours truly! 
Secondly, the OBD - On Board Diagnostics that auto electricians plug their laptops into, enabled garages to check problems quickly - VAG-COM/VCDS is what you want to look for. What this does is basically tell you what's having problems and as said, it can and usually is one bit/sensor that starts a chain reaction causing multiple problems cropping up on the scan! There are hundreds of maps all interconnected in some way so it's about trying to use logic - if you've recently played with one area then it could likely be causing a problem in another area if you're getting multiple codes.
So check leaks and spend the £20 or so to get a read of the codes if necessary, to save you a lot of time and effort first of all!
That's a basic overview of what essentially is happening then, find the cause of the sensor play up, not necessarily the sensor itself!
Quick list of common probs;
Coils/coil packs - personally seen some bad pro maps destroying coils if you've had it happen - lot's of reasons for problems here - fundamentally important for good spark and everything thereafter! So anything from a bent spark plug due to dropping through to a damaged coil or sensor in the dizzy!
MAF - intake systems collapsing, sensor not working, bad reads due to bends/turbulent flow - less of a problem on mk4+ due to glass/ceramic substrate evolution of the ME7 HFM's.over wire early ones.
Temp sensor - start/after-start & hot start areas of injection on mk4's for example , car can play up depending on ecu adaptive aspects - "learning" and  temp depending, so if playing up then gets better or vice versa - perhaps here or below?
02/Lambda - common problems here too - coking over giving bad readings due to age, brittle at times, can be a prob on later ME7 torque systems due to above temp dep'd aspects and adaptve learning of the ecu - mono lambda problems for fi more technical but similar in terms of adaption routines.
Hope that gives you a basic idea of what is going then which covers most problems basics!
 
Little Bosch diagram on the ME7 system to see the various sensors and, unfortunately, why a bit of trial and error may be needed as they are all connected!
 
 

 
EDIT: I did this quick note info based on the Bosch system strategy floating about on the web, gives an overview of catalytic monitoring in the ecu and so on so kind of tells you what your computer is doing in monitoring and why it throws codes;
 
https://app.box.com/s/7fvt652zoqapzmfq7fv0rfufs96yv25q
 
12v info:
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_127.PDF
 
VR6 repair manual;
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/Corrado/VW_Corrado_SLC_AAA_Repair_Manual.pdf
 
V5/FSI:
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_195.pdf
 
http://sandbox.enjoybeing.net/veedub/vw_vr6_self_study.pdf

Err, I used to use frozen solid above but been a while - they'll give you a quote dep on cogs/parts, if they have to strip box etc - used to have the details on their sites but it seems to have changed now - factor a couple of hundred I suppose sending them cogs n shafts. Few years though.
Ask them what they charge for stripping box and see if they can check the state of your parts. Just because the stock box is taking 200lb/ft doesn't mean it'll blow the first time you put it at 400lb/ft - you can only tell for sure if you strip it and look at it plus cryo/heat treatment is about toughening - if tolerances are too out/parts too worn then it affects the stresses which equals damage.
Point I am trying to make is things like this;
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/fulcrum
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_(mechanics)
Do this - put your hands together fingers in between fingers - however put them so the tips of your fingers are essentially touching the base of the others - the end of your palm where your fingers stick out from and pull them apart - easy right. Now interlock them properly like you're going to crack your knuckles and try - much harder! Due to mechanics the stresses they can now take are far more yet the stresses remain the same - it's the way to think in tuning really.
That being said, use your stock box and slap and LSD/ATB on but it'll give more stresses due to increased grip. "Will my box hold up?" - No idea, not looked at it! But if you want strength and reliability lots to think about and can cost! Ways to sort it like treatment but if the base isn't up to scratch then even these techniques, as much as they help, will not be a "be all and end all" answer without doing everything else!
Another simple way to think of it - the fingers technique and this pic - now imagine if there were no gaps, the additional stresses they could take - same goes for your gearbox and the too vague "will it hold up?" questions. No-one can really say for sure due to many reasons but there are ways to go about protecting components and depends on your budget really!
http://static.flavors.me/dynamic_images/custom/3be35abdd35d4a54b33edc7c3b48f005
Same with the 02m and some gearbox pro's now offering two strengthening parts for two different shafts - mechanics and torsional stresses - in that case with the 02M on two different planes due to multi-shafts

Err, I used to use frozen solid above but been a while - they'll give you a quote dep on cogs/parts, if they have to strip box etc - used to have the details on their sites but it seems to have changed now - factor a couple of hundred I suppose sending them cogs n shafts. Few years though.
Ask them what they charge for stripping box and see if they can check the state of your parts. Just because the stock box is taking 200lb/ft doesn't mean it'll blow the first time you put it at 400lb/ft - you can only tell for sure if you strip it and look at it plus cryo/heat treatment is about toughening - if tolerances are too out/parts too worn then it affects the stresses which equals damage.
Point I am trying to make is things like this;
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/fulcrum
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_(mechanics)
Do this - put your hands together fingers in between fingers - however put them so the tips of your fingers are essentially touching the base of the others - the end of your palm where your fingers stick out from and pull them apart - easy right. Now interlock them properly like you're going to crack your knuckles and try - much harder! Due to mechanics the stresses they can now take are far more yet the stresses remain the same - it's the way to think in tuning really.
That being said, use your stock box and slap and LSD/ATB on but it'll give more stresses due to increased grip. "Will my box hold up?" - No idea, not looked at it! But if you want strength and reliability lots to think about and can cost! Ways to sort it like treatment but if the base isn't up to scratch then even these techniques, as much as they help, will not be a "be all and end all" answer without doing everything else!
Another simple way to think of it - the fingers technique and this pic - now imagine if there were no gaps, the additional stresses they could take - same goes for your gearbox and the too vague "will it hold up?" questions. No-one can really say for sure due to many reasons but there are ways to go about protecting components and depends on your budget really!
http://static.flavors.me/dynamic_images/custom/3be35abdd35d4a54b33edc7c3b48f005
Same with the 02m and some gearbox pro's now offering two strengthening parts for two different shafts - mechanics and torsional stresses - in that case with the 02M on two different planes due to multi-shafts

Sounds good, not hanging about then? Nice reliable base to build from.

Wouldn't really make a difference in "strength" per se, maybe ratio at torque level v's rpm. If you want longevity, I would literally think of it this way;
1. "Is my gearbox in good condition?" - are the teeth worn too much? Can someone or you do a check on the state of your box? Using perhaps dyes or other such techniques? A poor base means a bad start!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection
http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Magnafluxing.html
2. "Can I afford someone to modify the strength of my box?" - if so, how? Assuming it's too expensive to manufacture your own box/cogs, what about heat treatment, even though your stock box has gone through thousands of heating and cooling cycles in it's life. Will heat treatment or cryo freezing be a wise idea....can I afford it?
I all honesty, it's not covering the basics that costs people the most money, stock boxes are usually rated to 200-250lb/ft from the factory but 02M's can do 700+lb/ft or 02A's 500+, depends if the basics are covered!
3. Clutches - what boost you looking at, what can you put up with for a daily in terms of pedal feel/grippy/noise, cost etc? If you go aftermarket that can clamp these massive increases in torque under FI then are the teeth in the box as new as stated earlier - if not will they shred due to gaps?
Point is - you can take a risk with your box, even buy 2/3 pretty cheap to replace, but if you are spending money, you have to think about the basics, it is what destroys parts. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_barrier_coating
http://www.zircotec.com/
http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/
 
"No point putting a bucket under a leaky roof, fix the roof itself!"

You know, i'm not convinced that the ar makes that much of a difference on box breaking, the math/physics doesn't add up. Shock of slip to grip exerts far more force and modulation of that force would be better and on things like an 02M there are angular aspects to take note of. 02A and the like it's when it grips 4th/5th usually and that can depend on boost level, tyres, turbo bearing system etc. There's also material used as stock, the degree of heat treatment or hairline fractures of your stock box etc hence cryo treatments - there are far too many things to do with the box/drivetrain that explain breakages than turbo ar ratio in my opinion!
I think 034 did coated bearings, no reason you can't get stock and have a coater do the same I suppose but that's about slippage and thermal load protections - engine dependent of course but again - thermal loads can be lessened with such coatings and slippage could as easily be a worn engine or a poor engine builder using bad tolerances!

Sounds good, not hanging about then? Nice reliable base to build from.

Coupla' nice vids I stumbled upon!
 
 

Coupla' nice vids I stumbled upon!
 
 

Excellent post pal. Its up there at the top. 

Coupla' nice vids I stumbled upon!
 
 

No worries sunshine, although I think you're underestimating the task at hand though! Who's done it before with these, any links?
First and foremost, Megasquirt or any aftermarket system for that matter has absolutely no control whatsoever over an electro-magnetic clutch system and would somewhat need to be implemented into the functional logic of how the systems operate, with the ecu being modified accordingly. A difficult task but not impossible but needs a fair bit of custom work to operate well!
That tiny supercharger is also going to be overwhelmed at any decent air flow being the singular compressor and as such, is going to max out it's airflow at fairly low revs, the disengagement of the em pulley system would therefore have to occur quickly/at low revs, maybe even to the point of not being "in boost" or bringing up the compressor speed up to range for what is desired!
Hell, go for it but it's not easy!
Here's a link to how the compound charging works on VAG vehicles I did some years ago if you want to learn it;
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?257472-VW-s-Twincharger-System-Overview
As for the pistons/rods - probably best set you want;
https://store.034motorsport.com/piston-set-je-forged-2-8l-vr6-12v.html
https://store.034motorsport.com/rod-set-pauter-vw-audi-vr6.html

Hmm, not sure that you want to do that - seems like a bad mix!
I take it given they are so small that you are feeding the turbo via the supercharger? In which case how are you going to develop the electro-magnet to disengage the supercharger so it doesn't over spin at high revs or have you worked that out with the pulley system? Not that such a supercharger is any good for the 2.8 anyway as it's too small.
When I worked out these engines being compounded supercharged to turbo many years ago I think I came up with an Eaton M62 disengaged via e-m feeding something like a GTX42 - pretty sure a little H1C will max out very quickly given the volume and density of air it will be ingesting!
Then there's the mapping too - quite a bit of work on the oem but I suppose aftermarkets are simpler and should probably have provisions for extra sensory inputs fairly easily but they cost.
Also, don't forget that the compounding is putting hugely dense air through the engine and without mage knock control tuning and compression work it'll likely rip a stock block to pieces fairly quickly if the mapping isn't spot on.
Plus you can get as much power much simpler and easier with just a turbo kit which is why I decided not to go through it, just over complicated for what I wanted to achieve.

Coupla' nice vids I stumbled upon!
 
 

p.s. I think Jeff what's his name Atwood is it, over at Vortex - think he works for UM in US or one of the big companies there - has many years on these engines and he did 13psi bone stock but there are very, very few people that know as much about them as him as a guide.

Petrol turbo cars have lower compression which reduces knock/detonation, the higher the compression ratio the more likely you'll get knock as a basic guide, although there is efficiency/power to be had at higher compressions, depends where knock limit is. Diesel engines are not petrol ether, they run very high compression ratio's comparatively.
As I said though, you can get >500hp on a stock engine - spacer/ARP included though and some have taken it to 700hp but you HAVE to sort knock out by lowering compression with a spacer plate at least and hardware in the critically stressed areas that are effected by the additional air density and shearing/torsional strains in those areas.
Boost and therefore knock limit dictate compression ratio but you'll not really get past a bar of boost on a bone stock engine before knock detonates your engine and that's with a very, very good tune done incrementally - so technically you could get 400hp ish but I wouldn't recommend such high boost. 

It's okay, in many respects it's right, reciprocating masses denote the drivetrain so a crankshaft could be considered that too. However, generally if I was asking on such forums I would say that drivetrain is usually the clutch, driveshafts etc and we say "bottom end" to mean the pistons, rods, crank etc in the engine.
Stock engine you probably don't really want to get too far beyond 300hp before you lower compression. ARP hardware and a spacer/decompression plate can be used if on a budget. High hp (>500hp) can be had but it's a risk, if you can afford it, rods and pistons really as well as new bearings, gaskets and ARP/Raceware hardware.
So - Raceware/ARP rod bolts and head studs plus spacer plate is the cheap way to protect your engine under boost. Keep the de-compression plate a high ratio 9-9.5:1 so as not to cause problems with the chains (spacer adds height to the engine which is how it lowers compression).
Clutches tend to go at 300lb/ft ish then an upgrade. Although quite expensive I usually say to tell people to get a Sachs SRE clutch kit with a single mass flywheel - good for 450lb/ft with good feel. Otherwise, a cheaper 4 puk/paddle/ clutch or Stage 2 hybrid will give 15-25% better clamping but the dual mass flywheels tend to be the weak spot.
This may also depend on what gearbox/clutch set up you have in the first place, I am assuming a stock O2M 4 motion gearbox?

No - stock in that sense, basically adding your turbo so lots of change -  means lowering compression - i.e. spacer/decompression plate or pistons to bring it down from 10.5:1 to the 9.0:1 or so you if you want to avoid knock under boost. Pistons best way, spacer if you can't afford pistons.
This is knock, seeing as your 1st language isn't English then I hope it helps; 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
Head work, like cams, can have a benefit especially under boost, but no need to go crazy with them, timing of naturally aspirated engines - those with no turbo or supercharger, is more aggressive - very different, to those under boost!
Changes there but lot's to think about in-between. What is needed is "engine bottom end" - your rods/pistons, simply due to material used!
Drivetrain is this - it's about what "drives" the vehicle, what moves it - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drivetrain
Bottom end etc;
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroker_kit
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cylinder_block
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio

As Dave said, sort of - "drivetrain" denotes the driving parts in English - your clutch and gearbox so to speak but I assume you mean engine.
Nothing is really needed for the head except possibly cams for better VVT control/spool with timing. Over 1100hp has been had with a stock head so unnecessary really! This one to be exact so save money there in my opinion!
This car here made over 1000ps at 6850rpm on the dyno so crazy rev limits are usually to do with gears/speed only - no more power is really had at high rev limits due to engine design - you may want to change to heavy duty valve springs to stop valve float if you add revs but you can also learn to change gear faster and keep revs similar to stock!
Rods and pistons would be a good idea really for that power, stock pistons can handle power but it's the spacer/squish/head lifting aspects to watch out for. ARP/Raceware clamping forces/designs help though so that type of hardware helps. 
Rods/pistons yes - cams help for fundamental changes NA to FI and valve springs if you need more revs only. so depends on what your car is tuned/built for.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squish_(piston_engine)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_float
 

No worries sunshine, although I think you're underestimating the task at hand though! Who's done it before with these, any links?
First and foremost, Megasquirt or any aftermarket system for that matter has absolutely no control whatsoever over an electro-magnetic clutch system and would somewhat need to be implemented into the functional logic of how the systems operate, with the ecu being modified accordingly. A difficult task but not impossible but needs a fair bit of custom work to operate well!
That tiny supercharger is also going to be overwhelmed at any decent air flow being the singular compressor and as such, is going to max out it's airflow at fairly low revs, the disengagement of the em pulley system would therefore have to occur quickly/at low revs, maybe even to the point of not being "in boost" or bringing up the compressor speed up to range for what is desired!
Hell, go for it but it's not easy!
Here's a link to how the compound charging works on VAG vehicles I did some years ago if you want to learn it;
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?257472-VW-s-Twincharger-System-Overview
As for the pistons/rods - probably best set you want;
https://store.034motorsport.com/piston-set-je-forged-2-8l-vr6-12v.html
https://store.034motorsport.com/rod-set-pauter-vw-audi-vr6.html