Vw_owner
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Posts posted by Vw_owner
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ffs!! iv only forgot to bring the tape measure home!!!! , i will get these measurments for you if not tomo evening then by sunday for sure i promise!!
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totally forgot about this and my tapes are at work, ill do my best to remember tomo
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i have a 4mo with no rear seats as i removed them so i can fit tools n stuff in without damaging the seats, i can get the measurments for you tomo, iirc with the seats folded down flat, the backs of them are pretty much inline with the boot floor so its like a continuous floor , think theres a slight raise at the front end though.. there nice cars to drive , smooth, nice amount of power and not bad on fuel with the 6spd box , its worth investing in a cheap hand held fault code reader ,
what dimensions exactly with the seats down, from the boot lid to the back of the front seats? , and height from the boot floor to the head liner?
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Hi bud , you need to use the original vr6 engine mount , mk4 mounts are totally different and in a different location,, your see on the back of the engine {in a sqaure} the four mounting points ,, it might pay for you to run a tap down the threads as they may be full of rust, just google image vr6 engine mountings if your unsure
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look for pink-ish staining around the coolant pipes and expansion tank have a good look at everything, could be the expansion cap on the tank letting go and running down the chassis?,,, also remember if your constantly topping it up with fresh water then this will also contrbute to corrosion inside the cooling system/engine sooner or later which isnt good as im assuming previous owner would of been doing the same as you , you want to use vw's g13 {or what ever number there on now} coolant mixed 50/50 with deionised water, if your coolant just looks like fresh water and has no colour then get it drained and filled up properly as it will also help in finding the leak, {pink stains}
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possibly, from what I found out when I brought mine, AWD, ABS , ESP etc are all linked together and if something in one of them systems f -ups it will throw a code but you might also get other codes thrown up in other systems because of that one fault , but you just got work through them faults methodically , the 00812 for brake, seems like the cheapest and possibly easiest one to start with ?, the first day I brought mine the traction control light came on and wouldn't go out , and gave me a bunch of PITA codes to deal with, Yaw rate sensor was my problem , had to be sent off to Germany to be refurbished
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have you scanned it yet? , haldex controllers aren't cheap , I had to replace mine due to oil leaking internally through a seal for the motor shaft,
couldn't belive theres no replacement for this seal either!! didn't throw up any dash lights though, just an error code,
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Iv never owned jap performance cars so I cant really compare but iv had vr6's and I love them! if your after a vr6 then I would recommend taking a look at the mk4 golf v6 4motion, these have the newer 24v vr6 which has slightly more power and more torque lower down , the price's of these now can be very cheap considering they are top of the range mk4's with haldex AWD and 6spd Gearbox , I brought one last year and love it! , ebay number 291800757574
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aslong as you have flared the pipe correctly and that fitting is tight then that "should" be fine,
{I say should because its a brake component and it should still be checked for leaks once you have bled the brakes} the thread gap you are pointing to is a good thing! you actualy need it, it confirms the torque your putting on the spanner is being transfered into sealing the pipe and not on a fitting that's just bottoming out on the bias valve, which would then mean you don't actually know how tight the seal of the fitting/pipe is, even though you have slammed the fitting down as tight as you can into the valve or hose...
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yea pull the engine and gearbox out as one, then separate them out of the car , remember the order of the bolts in the bell housing!
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they look like bullet caseings!
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as above get in touch with the previous owner to find out more about the wireing , the two connections at the front with the box , if i remember correctly one of them is for the VVT on the inlet manifold and the other was for secondary air injection?? , the bundle of wires could be for things that isnt actualy needed on the 3.2 loom into mk3 , things like oil temp/pressure {old ce2/mk3 loom wires would still be in use for them}, secondary air pump? charcoal canister? outside temp sender? etc etc i wouldnt worry tbh , with the diagnostic port im guessing you have tryed scanning it? have you tryed scanning it with the engine running ? or just with ign on? , with the rev limit problem a memeber on the corrado forum posted up as he had a similar problem and it was the crank speed sensor. may or may not be your problem but worth checking out, you have the original mk3 clocks fitted?
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just becuase you have a milky like substance on the oil filler cap doesnt mean you have head gasket problems, with the colder weather condensation builds up and produces this {google it} , if the car isnt used for long periods then the engine heat cant burn it off so it just builds up , if your engine is over heating and mysteriously looseing coolant then idd consider maybe HG failure, but again over heating could also indicate failed thermostat + with the condensation build up would look like HG failure , theres a few things to check and tick off before jumping the gun and getting a new head gasket,
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haha you should be fine then, its prety self explanatory once you look at all the peices,
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yea grease it all up , press that seal in, wack it on ,
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yea slap it in there, lots of it although dont over pack it, mine came with the grease in sachets
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yep theres only one nut so not much can go wrong aslong as its not over tightend , the cotter pin goes through the axle which locks a castle style washer which then locks the nut from moveing from its set position, it will all make sense if you look at it and do it,
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its exaclty the same as this
yea just adjust it until the play { wobble} has gone and tigten it up abit more and then back off to where it was , you want it to have no play but you dont want it overtight , its got to be just right, , fit the wheel and shake it and spin it and keep checking , drive it for abit and re check it,
and same here
well atleast from watching them videos i now know i dont need a puller to remove the races from original discs
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yes you will have to adjust them , there taper roller bearings , unlike the ones fitted to the front which are sealed cartridge bearings and take more abuse , those need a bearing press to be fitted, , take off the rear wheel and you will see the cotter pin and the center nut, thats how the adjustment is made,
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its easy, if replaceing the discs you can just use a punch and socket to seat the new bearing race into the disc, {the disc houses the bearing} if you want to use your old disc's you might need a puller to remove the old race, you could tighten the old bearing up to remove play , but the other day my friends rear bearing blew out on him and his had no signs of wear it just went, so weather you want to tighten it or repalce yours as preventative maintenance is up to you ... if you get new discs get new abs rings aswell, your old ones might not come off in one peice..
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my vr's have never done that, maybe try unplugging the aux pump and see what happens then?,
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nothing gay about dbw pedal, mine feels perfect! no lag and not to responsive, OP the engine is a straight swap apart from the electrics and exhaust down pipe, take a look at my thread on here in the corrado section for what needs to be done also check out the 24v thread on the corrado forum,
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what mods has this 2.9 had to get 204 bhp? like i said iv had both engines and standard for standard theres no real difference to justify a swap imo unless its something you just want to do , going from a coil pack 2.8 to coil pack 2.9 wireing should be fine, early ABV 2.9 had a distributer and not a coil pack so wireing for that will be different,
Buying a mk4 v6 4 motion
in Interior
Posted
right so from the back of the front seat to the boot lid dependant on the back rest angle and how far back/forward your seat actually is we have 58 " , width across the main back seat area from door card to card is 53" , the actual boot width side to side is 40" but then opens out for the rear seats/door cards , and the height is 32" off of the boot lid floor but where the boot lid attachs or the opening of the boot lid height is 29" as the head liner tapers up from that point to your 32", hope that helps