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mightymidget

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Everything posted by mightymidget

  1. mightymidget
    I don't know about the engine mounts but I'm running a Gallaxy/Sharan head on my Golf VR6 and the only difference is that the Gallaxy has SAI (Secondary Air Injection) like the yank cars. You'll need to remove the SAI stuff at the front of the engine and plug the hole witha 19mm core plug (freeze plug). Other than that I think you'll find there pretty much identical. The Gallaxy is OBD2 with the newer single timing chains. The head parts, cams, valves, lifters etc all share the same part numbers. This also holds true for OEM manufactures such as Febi as there part numbers for cams, lifters et
  2. mightymidget
    I think the garage is trying a fast one. What ever way you look at it they skimmed and rebuilt the car. If the HG has blown in a short space of time then it's either a cheap crap HG or the skimming, head torque was done incorrectly. Did they use new head bolts?? Either way it's there fault. I would demand they fixed it ASAP and dont pay a penny... As others have stated you dont need a spacer or any compression reduction with a SC running a stage one 250-260bhp. Stage 1 SC's are a bolt on mod. The standard HG is fine..
  3. mightymidget
    Should be faster than that. 7.2 is the official listed 0-60. You've got to launch to get that with a standard VR. You might have a problem. If it was me teh first thing I'd do is get the Codes checked with a VAGCOM
  4. mightymidget
    Strange to have it at just those RPM ranges. Gunna be hard to track. I'm sure your probably already aware knocking could be a few things, Lifters, Rod Bearings, Piston Slap, Chains etc... Without hearing first hand it's hard for someone to suggest. Do you have a recording??
  5. mightymidget
    Yeah, I watched that too. What was it? 156bhp back to the standard 210ish. I don't think were talking about your standard oil and filter change to get those results!! I think 'May' mentioned he changed the injectors so I guess they were probably screwed. That would certainly acount for that huge increase.
  6. mightymidget

    MT-90

    mightymidget replied to ip's topic in Transmission

    Best mod I've done. MT90 is the business............
  7. mightymidget
  8. mightymidget
    That's quite a list.. :-) Pain in the ass when you've done so much but still have the same problem!! Go for the mounts then maybe look at the drive shafts. Don't know what else to suggest..
  9. mightymidget
    Cam followers mate.. Hows your oil, old thin oil will cause all the lifters to tick. Alternativly whip the cam cover off and pour 300ml of fresh oil over the cams and lifters. If the noise goes then there's your problem.
  10. mightymidget
    Guide rail and bolt can be done without removing the gearbox. However, I'd highly recommend inspecting the top tesnsioner by removing the cam cover before removing the tensioner bolt. If you have the older type tensioner rail it could have already failed and the tensioner bolt could be the only thing thats holding it in place. You'll have to pull the box to replace the tensioner rail..
  11. mightymidget
    VR6's are Good motors that just keep on going. But at 120k your be looking at chains and tensioners. The water works tend to be poor as well. Look for leaks around the crack (transfer) pipe and thermostat block. Water pumps seem to be a problem, especially the original plastic impeller type. If you can get a compression test done. Persoanly I wouldn't touch a car with anything below 120psi (tested when hot, throttle full open, all plugs removed and fuel relay removed). Any variance of 40psi between cylinders and the head/valves will probably need looking at. Top mount bearings go especially
  12. mightymidget
    Easy to do when the heads off. You'll need a valve spring compressor to remove all the valves to enable access to the seals. If the heads on the car you need to compress the cylinders using a special tool connected to an air-line. This keeps the valves up enabling you to remove the springs (which you also need a special valve spring compressor). Then you can replace the seals. Easy if you've got the tools...
  13. mightymidget
    Get the head skimed.. Once removed they are prone to warp. You need a good clean, flat surface on both the head and deck. A head skim is only about £25.00 and will give you peice of mind. If you decide to remove just the carbon I've found Wynns Carb Cleaner works great. You can get it from Halfords, but go careful, this stuff is very harmful.
  14. mightymidget
    you sure its the engine mounts causing your knocking? Does the motor move when rocked or reved hard? I thought mine were gone and it turned out to be the top mounts knocking which is a common problem on VR6's
  15. mightymidget
    Sounds like stem seals to me. Rings tend to smoke every time you gas it. Where as seals allow oil through during slow driving or de-acceleration, then when you gas it hard all that oil burns off.
  16. mightymidget
  17. mightymidget
    thanks C2 MS. Much appreciated. That's twice you've answered a question for me this weekend
  18. mightymidget
    thanks for your reply. I'm looking to replace my worn-out 2.8 with a recon 2.9. The head on the 2.9 has been rebuilt so wanted to throw that on along with the block. Not really looking for any performance gains. Does anyone know if the 2.9 ran EGR? if so I guess it's just a matter of blocking off with a cap to run my OBD2 mani and TB. Still a little concerned that the 2.9 head/block might have some missing sensors even with my OBD2 attachements.
  19. mightymidget
    Hi all, I'm looking to replace my OBD2 2.8 AAA block and head with a 2.9 ABV OBD1 block/head. I'd like to keep my OBD2 management and current loom (+ECU). Wondered if anyone here has done the same and could help me answer a few questions? Besides the extra 100cc does anyone know if the 2.8 and 2.9 blocks are the same? I'm a little concerned that the 2.9 block might have a few missing sensors to run the OBD2 management? (ie, knock sensor, crankshaft position sensor etc..) To keep the OBD2 management I'd have to use my current OBD2 throttlebody, inlet manifold, coilpack, top timing chain cove
  20. mightymidget
    whoops.... we were posting at the same time. Thanks for your reply. Guess that answers my question. Any idea of what plugging would require? is it just a simple matter of blanking of the port where the EGR would go? Also, do you know if the cam profiles are the same??
  21. mightymidget
    Thanks Jon. Thats what I thought. I've also bought quite a few bits from ford with no problems yet. The only reason I ask is I'm considering a 2nd hand Galaxy head. I'm pretty sure the Galaxy 2.8 is officially quoted with a lower BHP. If this is correct then the loss may be from de-tuned cam profile. Then again it could be to do with a number of things. Also I don't think the OBD2 Golf VR6 had EGR (might be wrong) where as the Galaxy apparently does. I haven't got a clue where the EGR would be or if my OBD2 has one, so not to sure if it has anything to do with the cylinder head. I don't want
  22. mightymidget
    Hi, anyone know if the 2.8 Galaxy head is the same as an OBD2 2.8 Golf VR6 head. Concerns are the cam timing might be different and maybe de-tuned? also I've read that the Galaxy uses a egr valve (exhaust gas recirculating valve). Does this have anything to do with the head?? Many thanks in advance, MM.
  23. mightymidget
    Totally forgot about that ad until you mentioned it. Certainly would like a copy myself. I'll look around the net to see if it's available anywhere.
  24. mightymidget
    Hi, can anyone tell me if they are different. I want to buy a 2nd hand head and recon it before swapping for my current worn out OBD2 head. I think the only difference is the sensor on the duplex chain wheel (connected to the cam) for the OBD2 timing? Anything else anyone can think of? Many thanks in advance, MM.
  25. mightymidget
    Heres a link to the one I bought. Came with a copy of VAG-COM 409.1 which is the freeware version that has limited functionality. Still good to read and clear codes. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300168224226&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123 MM
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