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mightymidget

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About mightymidget

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  1. I don't know about the engine mounts but I'm running a Gallaxy/Sharan head on my Golf VR6 and the only difference is that the Gallaxy has SAI (Secondary Air Injection) like the yank cars. You'll need to remove the SAI stuff at the front of the engine and plug the hole witha 19mm core plug (freeze plug). Other than that I think you'll find there pretty much identical. The Gallaxy is OBD2 with the newer single timing chains. The head parts, cams, valves, lifters etc all share the same part numbers. This also holds true for OEM manufactures such as Febi as there part numbers for cams, lifters et
  2. I think the garage is trying a fast one. What ever way you look at it they skimmed and rebuilt the car. If the HG has blown in a short space of time then it's either a cheap crap HG or the skimming, head torque was done incorrectly. Did they use new head bolts?? Either way it's there fault. I would demand they fixed it ASAP and dont pay a penny... As others have stated you dont need a spacer or any compression reduction with a SC running a stage one 250-260bhp. Stage 1 SC's are a bolt on mod. The standard HG is fine..
  3. Should be faster than that. 7.2 is the official listed 0-60. You've got to launch to get that with a standard VR. You might have a problem. If it was me teh first thing I'd do is get the Codes checked with a VAGCOM
  4. Strange to have it at just those RPM ranges. Gunna be hard to track. I'm sure your probably already aware knocking could be a few things, Lifters, Rod Bearings, Piston Slap, Chains etc... Without hearing first hand it's hard for someone to suggest. Do you have a recording??
  5. Yeah, I watched that too. What was it? 156bhp back to the standard 210ish. I don't think were talking about your standard oil and filter change to get those results!! I think 'May' mentioned he changed the injectors so I guess they were probably screwed. That would certainly acount for that huge increase.
  6. mightymidget

    MT-90

    Best mod I've done. MT90 is the business............
  7. That's quite a list.. :-) Pain in the ass when you've done so much but still have the same problem!! Go for the mounts then maybe look at the drive shafts. Don't know what else to suggest..
  8. Cam followers mate.. Hows your oil, old thin oil will cause all the lifters to tick. Alternativly whip the cam cover off and pour 300ml of fresh oil over the cams and lifters. If the noise goes then there's your problem.
  9. Guide rail and bolt can be done without removing the gearbox. However, I'd highly recommend inspecting the top tesnsioner by removing the cam cover before removing the tensioner bolt. If you have the older type tensioner rail it could have already failed and the tensioner bolt could be the only thing thats holding it in place. You'll have to pull the box to replace the tensioner rail..
  10. VR6's are Good motors that just keep on going. But at 120k your be looking at chains and tensioners. The water works tend to be poor as well. Look for leaks around the crack (transfer) pipe and thermostat block. Water pumps seem to be a problem, especially the original plastic impeller type. If you can get a compression test done. Persoanly I wouldn't touch a car with anything below 120psi (tested when hot, throttle full open, all plugs removed and fuel relay removed). Any variance of 40psi between cylinders and the head/valves will probably need looking at. Top mount bearings go especially
  11. Easy to do when the heads off. You'll need a valve spring compressor to remove all the valves to enable access to the seals. If the heads on the car you need to compress the cylinders using a special tool connected to an air-line. This keeps the valves up enabling you to remove the springs (which you also need a special valve spring compressor). Then you can replace the seals. Easy if you've got the tools...
  12. Get the head skimed.. Once removed they are prone to warp. You need a good clean, flat surface on both the head and deck. A head skim is only about £25.00 and will give you peice of mind. If you decide to remove just the carbon I've found Wynns Carb Cleaner works great. You can get it from Halfords, but go careful, this stuff is very harmful.
  13. you sure its the engine mounts causing your knocking? Does the motor move when rocked or reved hard? I thought mine were gone and it turned out to be the top mounts knocking which is a common problem on VR6's
  14. Sounds like stem seals to me. Rings tend to smoke every time you gas it. Where as seals allow oil through during slow driving or de-acceleration, then when you gas it hard all that oil burns off.
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