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mightymidget

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Everything posted by mightymidget

  1. mightymidget
    The one I got off ebay will only run with the free shareware version of VAG-COM which is version 409.1. You need to ensure the cable is plugged into the car and the ignition on, as the cable gets it's power from the car not the USB port. Also try ticking 'force dumb mode' in 'options' when testing for the cable connection. MM
  2. mightymidget
    Running 215/40 16 with my BBS splits, but you'll need to lower the car quite a bit as the gap between the tyres and arches is quite big. No problems with rubbing or handling with the car 40mm down on each end. Hope this helps.. If you lower and then add 16's you'll need to have the tracking, camber done etc.. About £60 at main VW dealers. PS - Bath is about 10miles from me
  3. mightymidget
    Great stuff SJJ. Glad it's all working again. Good advice about the use of the jack. It's important to get as much out as possible. Also just as important to ensure the new oil is in all the corners with no air pockets. I think I'll research this 7mm hole problem a bit more. I agree that 7mm isn't going to make a 400ml difference to the boxes quantities. Seems everyone I talk to can only get 1600ml in a euro box, where as VW and others clearly state 2000ml fill. 400ml difference is a hell of a lot, overhaul or not... Maybe someone in the know could advise... MM PS - that's a massive funnel
  4. mightymidget
    I dont think theres a running in time. I did about 200miles on the VW oil. Like you said before I didn't think it was doing any damage so wasn't in a great hurry to change it. If anything I think it probably got worse with time. Wish I went with Redline in the first place though. A simple oil change has now cost me nearly £50.00 (3xVW @ £5.00 + 2xRedline @ £16.5 with p&p) . Drop a thread here when you get round to changing it. I'd be interested to learn if Redline fixes your problems. MM
  5. mightymidget
    My guess would be it's the oil rather than the level. When I changed to the VW oil I measured out 1600ml then measured 1600ml of the VW stuff I put back in. So with exactly the same quantities I went from good shifting with the old oil to very bad with VW. Only with the recent redline replacement did I squeeze the full 2quarts in. I made pretty sure my box was empty before filling up. I got the box really warm prior to draining, Then drained it for a long time by putting the car through various angles on my brothers ramps. I guess there would be about 100-150ml still in the box which would onl
  6. mightymidget
    Hi SJJ, I sorted my problems out yesterday. Dumped the VW gear oil and put in some Redline MT90. Wow what a difference. The box is now smooth as silk. Better than what it was with the original oil. Just goes to prove the VW oil is crap. What concerns me is that if I'd taken my car to VW for a gearoil change they would have used the VW spec stuff. I bet there's a number of non-mechanical owners who've been conned into box overhauls and expensive linkage parts when the only problem was the rubbish fluid VW put into it's boxes. Also, about the 1.6L fill. This apparently is a problem on a number
  7. mightymidget
    Thanks for the reply. The level is spot on. Exactly the same amount went in as came out. Also it's impossible to get this wrong, it's just a matter of getting the car parked on a level surface and filling until the oil comes out of the filler hole. I'm pretty resigned to the fact that the VW gear oil is crap. The box worked perfect before the change so I guess there's little else that could be causing this problem. I think the VW oil would be fine with a new tight tolerance box but in my case it's useless with a 100k box that has worn parts. Pretty much like fully synthetic engine oil which i
  8. mightymidget
    Hi, anyone any idea's? Just changed my gear oil and gear selection is now very stiff, especially 3rd and 5th when under a load. Sometimes I now have to pause and take a few seconds to select the gear and physically shove it into gear. It wasn't like this before the oil change. I changed the oil with what VW recommends. They took my engine number and gearbox code to ensure they ordered the correct stuff. I did a full drain and change. Drained off about 1.6L and it took about the same when refilling her, before it started coming out of the filler hole. I was expecting the gear change to be be
  9. mightymidget
    Thanks for all your input and suggestions on this. After careful consideration and reading through these forums I decided to go for 16's and lower it down some to get rid of the 4x4 look. I've bought some BBS two piece split rims that will look really good once fitted. The 18's would have looked great but I can't afford to mess about with different spacers, rolling arches etc.. Especially if the general consensus is that the handling will be effected. Still think 18's could be made to work if only I had the time and money to play :-( Once again thanks for all the replies.
  10. mightymidget
    I agree, just curious as these wheels look really good, I'm probably gunna play safe and go for 17"s. Although it has to be said that theres not too much info on 18" on VR6's. Hardly anyones really tried them and Just seem to accept 17 is the most you can go when the physics suggest otherwise. Never been one to follow the norm, probably why I was always in trouble at school
  11. mightymidget
    um,.. been doing a bit more research into this. The 215/35/18's have an approx outside tyre diameter of 60.8cm where as the standard 205/50/15's have a diameter of 58.6cm. That's a difference of 2.2cm's (22mm). That would raise the center of gravity by approx 11mm. (measured from the center axle to the ground). In comparison the 205/40/17 that a lot of people use have an outside tyre diameter of 59.6cm. 10mm more than standard 15's and would raise CG or ground clearance measured at the pan by 5mm. These are very small differences over the standard configuration. I ain't no expert but do you re
  12. mightymidget
    thanks for your feedback craggsy. What about the fitting though, do you think this straight fit with no rubbing is just nonsense??
  13. mightymidget
    I'm looking to possibly buy a set of RS6 style wheels which a guy has fitted to his 40mm lowered VR6. He's told me that his car needed no extra work to fit them and has no rubbing. He's suggested that the wheels should be a straight fit on a standard car and need no spacers or arch work. I'm still a little skeptical though. The wheels in question are 215/35/18 8J.These wheel do look great so it would be excellent if they'd fit a standard none-lowered car without modification. Any opinions appreciated as I'm really lost on this one as I've always run the standard 15's. Thanks in advance.. MM.
  14. mightymidget
    That's correct, this is what i'll be doing when I re-new the clutch next month. Currently I'm one of the unlucky OBD2 owners with double top chains and a rubbish old style top tensioner (engine no.AAA168xxx manufactured Dec 96). When I do it I'll replace with the newer solid tensioner and T-bolt. This should out last the remaining life of the car which is currently at 113k miles. I've read in other forums that it's possible to convert double top chains to single but can't really see any benefit in this as the chains themselves aren't suspect. It's only the runners that wear, I would guess tha
  15. mightymidget
    Hi all, I just wanted to clarify something that is often mentioned in this forum stating that the newer OBD2 engine doesn't suffer from timing chain issues as much as the older OBD1 engine. This is often quoted because the newer OBD2 engine is often stated as having a single top timing chain with a newer more durable top tensioner and bolt (without the rivets). However after investigation it seems that a number of the earlier OBD2 engines also have double top chains and will therefore suffer from the same possible top tensioner failures as seen on the older OBD1 engines. VW switched to single
  16. mightymidget
    Hi all, great forum. Lots of useful info and help. Just got my VR6 Hi-Line and love it. These cars are soooo addictive. Looking to do a mini service, been getting all the bits ready for this weekend (if the weathers ok!!). VW have everything I need at pretty good prices. That is except the sparkplugs. 60 notes for six NGK plugs seems a little steep. Like all good DIY'ers I took a look on Ebay and found some compatible Champions at 27.00 for all six!! (part no. RC10PYP4) . Anyone else using these?? I'm a little worried that the quality might not be up to scratch. My car is totally standard so
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