Jump to content

MOT time and the ABS light stays on


Recommended Posts

Yes, it's an MOT fail if the light comes on. My VR has the same problem. You will need to get a electronic diagnostic done on your ABS to tell you what the fault is.

Is it OK to remove the bulb from the ABS light to get through the MOT? Has anyone done this?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the following from: http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_340.htm

This suggests as long as the car has ABS it must be tested and that the light MUST come on at ignition and go out when running as the owners manual states. BUGGER

Info:

This ABS inspection applies to all systems fitted as 'standard', and to 'optional' systems fitted.

When testing vehicles that have ABS fitted the road wheels should not be allowed to rotate clear of the standing surface with the ignition on as this can cause the ABS system to indicate a fault which may require specialist equipment to rectify

Missing components

Where a vehicle is presented for test with an ABS component obviously missing but, follows the correct sequence of operation, the defect must be brought to the attention of the presenter.

Method of Inspection:

If the vehicle is fitted with an anti-lock braking system, check that

a. a warning lamp is fitted

b. the lamp illuminates

c. the lamp follows the correct sequence of operation

d. does not indicate a fault.

Note: The sequence varies with the type of system. Refer to the manufacturers or other reliable data, eg purpose produced charts, books, etc.

Reason for Rejection:

1. The warning lamp

a. is missing

b. does not illuminate

c. does not follow the correct sequence

of operation

d. indicates an ABS fault.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, but if you look at my MOT comment, I took mine to the local stealer, Explained the situation.The car has the same fault as you all describe, and it sailed through! So long as the light doesn't come on during test then your OK. I have to admit, I was a little surprised myself :o , but there you have it, photos of the pass slip, and the light igniting can be supplied as it still does this! ~:( What's worse is a new ABS light is now NOT the same as your original and contains three lights rather than two, I know this as the previous owner had removed the bulb for MOT .

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's likely to be a wheel sensor or the brake pedal position sensor, which sits in the servo under the brake master cylinder. The BPS is £45+VAT and comes as a kit with retainer rings, a seal and a bag of piston extension caps. Not the nicest of things to fit, get a small mirror, will make life easier!

Wheel sensors aren't too badly priced but if yours are the originals still, they can be a pain to remove.

If it's not either of those two, it might be a faulty lock valve in the ABS pump unit. Not cheap.

If you've got access to VAG-COM, the ABS ECU is 100% accurate with it's reporting, so that's the first step.

[ Edited Wed May 19 2004, 08:06PM ]

Link to post
Share on other sites

lmao, im here kev, following you posting, reading all of your advice, and so far they have all been good technical knowledge, that someone can use on their own car. then u spoil it by makin a comment like that. tut tut. or were u talking from experience. lol

Link to post
Share on other sites

basically to pass mot abs light needs to come on stay on few seconds then go out to pass mot well for our golfs anyway so if you really struggling just wire abs light up to a relay off the ignition this will give the desired affect as long as you have right type ov relay and wire up correctly i will try and get some more specifics over next couple ov weeks.now i still think best solution is to fix abs as brakes are important but its good way to get round mot if you are struggling. 8o)

Link to post
Share on other sites

hmmm had a little development today, i have been getting a very infrequent vibratation accompanied by a rattle noise just after firing up, only happens 1 in 100+ starts. today after fueling up i pulled out of the petrol station and this happened again. I went for the brakes and the pedal was solid and vibrating. After a couple of seconds it stopped and returned to normal (ABS light wasnt on at this point).

Its been fine since, done 35 miles to get to work! I have never felt ABS being used but since the pedal was bouncing i`m guessing even though the car was moving at 10mpg (ish) without the brake applied the sensor must have been confused and started ABS-ing.

Sound sensible? Guess it is time for a proper diagnosis on the ABS system :(

Link to post
Share on other sites

My car always "ABS-es" when below 15 mph ! I need to get it sorted but for now I've just disconnected it (under the rear seats). I suspect the VW stealership buggered something up when fitting a new sensor - I should have taken it back by now ! ~:(

Good luck with your problem though Andy, keep us updated.

--

Maak

Link to post
Share on other sites
with it disconnected does the ABS light still come on?

Not sure.

You can check the ABS sensor's yourself using a multimeter.

Disconnect the wiring from the sensor and put the multimeter on the ohm's setting.Check all 4 sensor's and they should have about the same reading if there's no reading at all there's your'e problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites
×
×
  • Create New...