Jump to content

vortech s/c power gains


Recommended Posts

wasnt untimatetune saying 300bhp or something and how do c2 kits give more gains.

on another note only getting 250 out of a car the prob already has between 180 and 190 that means were paying between 2-3 grand for 60 hp im seriously considering selling the snail i mean im not slating the vr6 but i think its over rated i wanted one for ages now ive got 1 its boring i had a peugeot 205 convertable up my arse the other day and yes i was flooring it you never know he might have even been able to overtake if it wasnt for the lights ah well what do i do now its advertised here anyway thx for the reply.

Link to post
Share on other sites

no nothing wrong with vr i had a go with 2 b4 and was no difference unless they were both slow u never know im not saying mine is slow but im used to it alrdy it dont feel as quick.

also ive been hearing a clunk for the past 3 weeks or so i was thinking of posting but i managed to pop the bonnet and have a look lazy me i couldent be arsed, anyway moved the engine back and forth and found my gearbox mount is shagged the engine moves loads are they hard to do they dont look it but ive never done work on a vr.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The C2 stage 1 kit should give you over 300 hp at the flywheel. It uses 36# injectors and a 2.87" pulley which produces 10 psi+. By comparison the VF-Eng stage 1 kit gives 260-70 hp@ 6.5 psi and the stage 2 280-90 hp@ 8psi. Therefore the C2 will serve you best if you want big horsepower. It really makes a huge difference to the car and is well worth it imo.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Couldn't shake off a 205 convertible? The biggest engine they came with was a 1600 cc 115bhp unit. A charged VR scoffs Imprezas with ease, let alone flabby french convertibles! Don't forget the charger isn't boosting until 4000rpm and it pulls relentlessly from there until 7K...if fuelled and setup correctly, so he might have caught you out in 5th at less than 4000rpm. Dump the stupid 3.3 diff and fit a 3.68 from a Corrado G60 and give the VR the gearing it deserves, and then see what the 205 can do, assuming it's standard. The VR was always more a cruiser than GTI, with proper gearing it's an accelerative monster and allied to a well mapped charger, you can play with 996 Porsches.

Link to post
Share on other sites

How much would it cost to change the gear differentials to what the Corrado G60 uses? I have to admit the only one single thing I find frustrating with the golf VR6 is the gearing (and slightly wallowy suspension)... to get proper accelaration you need to start from 1st or 2nd ...and then accelarate through the gears one by one to really get the power (trying to accelarate from third onwards has no where the same affect even in the high revs). I find it revs very low for the gears.

Link to post
Share on other sites

vf offer a v1 or v2 i think too, the main differences (if not the charger) for the stage 1 kits are

vf - stock injectors - 250bhp advertised

c2 - big injectors, prewelded sump, dual tensioner, billet maf housing - 280bhp advertised

mate, if you consider that the advertised bhp for a vr6 is 174 (if its more, then fine, your actual bhp will ALSO be higher when charged) and you take the vf kit, 76BHP for about 1500 quid (if bought in the states, we pay thru the nose for stuff here), and the c2 will give you 106BHP more

ok the numbers are small, until you realise the percentage increases, the vf kit is nearly 50% increase in power!!!! :) the c2 kit is way over 50% increase in power...

imagine buying half a vr6 and sticking it on top of your current car...the thing is a beast, hardly any cars feel/sound like a supercharged vr6.

standard vr6's are crisp, classy and refined...they arent racers :).

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard nothing but good things about the Quaife Diff for the VR. Even with a pretty standard engine I'm told the lower F/D and limited slip makes a HUGE difference to the all-important 0-100 time.

Definitely somthing that's on my shopping list.

With the box off, timimg chains can be done at the same time for not much extra, so there's a cost saving there if your chains are due for renewal anyway.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Never tried a VR Golf without a Quaife in anger so can't comment on their effectiveness (but Kevhaywire has already - so take it as read they do what it says on the tin!)

As for the Racelogic traction control, I'd definately recommend it. It allows you to not have to worry about wheelspin (wet or dry roads) and all but eliminates understeer (although I admit my suspension and arbs help with that too).

At

Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the Racelogic only work in 1st gear like other systems, using the rear ABS sensors as a reference point? Is it a power cut TC or ABS? Just thinking the ATE ABS pump in the VR isn't the greatest for use as a TC method, it's a bit on the slow side but sounds like yours is working OK, however it works :)

The only thing first gear TCs can't control is spin when change from 2nd to 3rd, or can they? I've been looking at the DTA P8Pro, which aswell as TC, LC etc, it also has other useful stuff like Water injection and NOS controllers built in :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have a look here: http://www.racelogic.co.uk

Works in any gear at any speed.

Far too complex for me to explain how though!!

The Racelogic system is a power cut one, but very unobtrusive on dry (5% slip) setting. You don't really know it's there but you can use full throttle on a roundabout without needing to buy new alloys (or worse!). As long as you move the steering wheel yourself of course - it won't do that for you. ;)

Basically it makes the most of what grip you have, whereas a lsd or sticky tyres actually give you more grip (but don't always tell you when the grip has gone).

As previously mentioned it's good. Wouldn't bother with the

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anorak, thanks mate. Think I'll look into that!

Yeah the LSD can be a pain, if you floor it round a wet roundabout and hit a patch of diesel, you'll be understeering off with both wheels spinning before you know it, but it's good fun all the same! 95% of the time though, an ATB is superb.

OK the Aquamist, I emailed them today to get group buy prices. They haven't come back yet but I'm looking at supplying us with System1 and Digital Display dash 2 systems. The RRP for those two is

Link to post
Share on other sites
×
×
  • Create New...