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Hey all,


I have a RR thread elsewhere so the first few posts will be bringing thread to date.

Owned the car since the beginning of 2018 and am finally getting around to starting my thread to showcase pictures jobs done to the car.

Background on the car:

1995 VR6
Purchased with 149k with full service history (serviced every year)
Standard example
It has had a blow-over respray at some point in its original colour - Candy White. Looks nice from a distance but not perfect around deals.
Everything worked* on purchase

The car as it stands today @ 151k:






Current list of jobs:

- Sunroof no longer works and the replacement I put in at a cost of £170 snapped within a week.

- Noticed some rust on the A Pillar behind internal trim. Not visible on the outside and probably caused due the windscreen trim being cracked directly above the rust patch.

- ABS light on occasionally. Says it's the Brake Pedal Sensor (mostly).

- Suspension wants refreshing

- Leather or Recaro's (don't we all).

- I want to preserve the underside with underseal.

More to follow on the jobs done this year...

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Jobs completed in 2018


1. Full Service
2. ABS front sensor replacement
3. Thermostat, 3 sensors in housing plus rad fan switch.
4. Fuel Pressure Regulator
5. Coil Pack & HT Leads replaced
6. Handbrake adjusted
7. 2 new tyres


1. 10p rust patch on sunroof fixed and lid resprayed
2. New boot lid fitted and resprayed 
3. Both sills and the top treated for rust and repainted
4. All arches treated and protected as rust was starting to creep in.
5. Small scabs forming on leading edge of bonnet sorted
6. Rear towing eye treated for rust and resprayed.
6. Wheels refurbished

Picture from body shop232d77c1-e19b-4022-98a7-9990f1a5a3c5.thumb.jpg.8c55539a369fa06a7dd5382e9dc7c0bc.jpg

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I do have a set of Bilstein B12's purchased in Apr plus I bought associated rubber bits and bolts and top mounts to refresh suspension when fitted.

Click image for larger version.   Name: IMG_2952.JPG  Views: 3  Size: 110.0 KB  ID: 95217

However the suspension kit may be sold this weekend as I need the funds to repair the rust and may as well protect the underside at the same time. I also need to pool some money to set aside any mechanical work, such as the chains, that might be needed in the future. Mr sensible is boring.

If I sell I will just replace my leaking front shocks with some Sachs Advantage shocks instead and do the rears another day. If the sale falls through then I'll just keep them and do a bit of DIY on the rusty bits to keep anything at bay (none of the rust can be seen fortunately).

Interestingly having written down everything I have done this year doesn't seem nearly as much as it feels I have done and spent this year!

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Sunroof - having spent £170 on a replacement corrado roof that snapped within a week I've now bought a replacement Mk3 Golf roof with a clear moonroof for £35.

I don't have a garage currently and haven't got round to fitting it. I'm concerned the glass panel will have a different shape to the Corrado roofline so the back up plan will be to find a Passat B4 moonroof instead, if I can find one.

The car also has no headlining at the moment whilst I wait to start this job. The headlining had completely sagged anyway and I am planning on re-trimming it.

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Today I have taken out my brake position sensor as I was getting a consistent fault with my code reader. These sensors are obsolete now and they usually fail because the solder dries up on the points mated to the circuit board. Sure enough mine had dried up. 

There were two hard bits to this job:

1. Getting the circlip off the sensor so I could remove it from the car. You'll need a mirror if it's positioned like mine.
2. Taking the sensor apart without wrecking the outer casing.

The procedure:

1. Pump the brake pedal a few times to relieve the vacuum in the master cylinder.
2. Remove bits from engine bay to gain good access to remove the circlip. You'll need a mirror so you can see what you're doing to get it off. I have a set of hook and picks that I used a couple of to get it off.
3. Sensor removed, make sure you have the o-ring too and don't lose the circlip either!

sensor test.JPG

4. Sensor disassembled. I took it apart by picking out the factory sealant and using an electricians screwdriver to pry it apart, without putting too much strain on the outer casing. It was a fiddly job and took a while to free it apart



5. I've never soldered before. First I cleaned up old solder from the joints by heating it up with the iron and using the solder vacuum sucker thing the extract it. I then re-soldered the circuit board to the points.



6. I then losely put it back together and tested it using my multi meter. I haven't used this before either but googled. I looked for the symbol ".)))" which I googled as meaning continuity. I then hooked the red and black testers to the points on the sensor. I got a reading between 250 to 850 as I slid the plunger thing in and out. 
7. I then got some clear sealant from the shed and put it back together.



I'm waiting 24 hours for it to dry and should be able to re-fit it on Wednesday. Fingers crossed this fixes my issue.

Next jobs booked are full under carriage steam clean and re-seal with Dinitrol and the Bilstein B12 is being fitted at the same time. Hopefully will get some pictures.



Edited by pfnsht
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Jobs done over the last week:


New Sunroof mech fitted along with Stuart's B4 moonroof. I cleaned and serviced the mech with lube as much as I could without disassembly. The moonroof is sitting a touch too low at the back so need to fettle a bit more, at the moment it is pushed to the top of the adjusters though so need to figure out how to get the whole thing higher. Let me know any tips.


ABS sensor brake position sensor fitted - fault cleared - all good.

Sill have a semi intermittent ABS fault with the pump but have a spare to fit at some point. Probably get my mechanic to do it as I haven't bled brakes before.

Oil Leak

Sourced oil leak - easy one - low pressure (0.25bar) oil sensor (PN 028 919 081 D). Also replacing high pressure sensor (1.4bar) next to it (PN 068 919 081 D) as only a few quid.

These are easy to change with an extension and joint on your socket wrench. You'll need a deep 24mm socket. Don't forget to push a metal washer on too (my meyle from vwheritage sensors came with new ones). 




Saturday the car goes in for rust treatment and undersealing with Dinitrol. I haven't got much rust under there but the factory underseal is flaking away and it's only a matter of time before I do get rust. Bilstein B12 suspension will also be fitted now I have received replacement rear springs from Eibach.

For those interested - there is an issue with the rear springs supplied with the B12 kit. They sit too low at the rear, basically on the bump stops. I wanted my drop to be more consistent with the front so had them send me out (via Larkspeed who have been very helpful) new rears.

Incorrect rear PN EW 851 3002 HA

Correct rear PN 850 2002 HA


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Update - car undersealed with Dinitrol and any rust treated. Car wasn't that bad underneath but wanted this done to keep it sweet.

Bilstein B12 kit fitted (need better pics as my drive is a slope). I had new rubber bits and top mounts fitted too and a Hunter alignment following. The car is is completely different to drive and much more comfortable vs the old standard stuff which was pretty knackered to be fair.

All work done by CSK Automotive is Hoddesdon. They are a Land Rover specialist but work on other cars. Chris is a great bloke and is into the VAG scene - has a lovely wrapped Audi R8. 

Before Pics






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Next job is to tackle the hot start issue. Starts on circa 3 crank when cold but takes 8-12 cranks when warm and left for 15-45ish mins. The idle can be intermittently rough (just a minor vibration you can feel but can't see on the tacho - VAG-COM sees it as something like 640-680 on idle. 


 So far I have:


Read codes (cam shaft sensor), replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, new FPR valve, new thermostat, new thermostat sensors, new rad fan switch (unrelated), new sparks, leads, coilpack (cracked) and fuel filter. I'm left with fuel pump and injectors - feel free to chip in to help me solve!


A people have chipped in on the Corrado forum and suggested a non-return valve and a bit of 8mm pipe on the fuel pump and changing the fuel pump relay. This is relative pennies so will try it. I've also bought a new fuel filler cap cause it was a tenner but don't really expect it to do anything.


If this doesn't work then the injectors are coming out for a refurb and then perhaps the fuel pump. I can't think of anything else left to replace! 


A few corrado owners have this hot start issue - is it Corrado specific or VR6 general?





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Swapped fuel relay and installed a one way valve on the fuel line near pump.


Yet to see if it improves my hot start issue as it got dark and my headlight switch broke. Maybe I should have got something newer!!


My idle is still a bit rough - feel vibration in the cabin but no bouncing on tacho. Not sure what the issue is, hopefully injectors or pump rather than something mechanical .... it’s not using oil or water or being smokey.


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12 hours ago, pfnsht said:

Thanks buddy, gives me comfort it’s protected but now I don’t want to get it dirty ?.



How much would something like that normally cost and is it a bodywork shop that normally provide that service? I want to do my mk3 but I have bought all the stuff myself minus a steam cleaner.

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How much would something like that normally cost and is it a bodywork shop that normally provide that service? I want to do my mk3 but I have bought all the stuff myself minus a steam cleaner.

It cost £460. It included a clean, rust treatment (converter) and then dinitrol. I went for the most expensive option so it’s been blown in all box sections. It looks brand new underneath!!

I took it to a place In Hoddesdon that is registered as a dinitrol specialist. They work on landrovers and aren’t a bodyshop but do have a dedicated booth for this sort of work. I considered doing it myself but couldn’t face the mess!!
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8 minutes ago, pfnsht said:



It cost £460. It included a clean, rust treatment (converter) and then dinitrol. I went for the most expensive option so it’s been blown in all box sections. It looks brand new underneath!!

I took it to a place In Hoddesdon that is registered as a dinitrol specialist. They work on landrovers and aren’t a bodyshop but do have a dedicated booth for this sort of work. I considered doing it myself but couldn’t face the mess!!


What's the process of the cleaning stage then is that just a steam clean? and the rust treatment is that just used everywhere or on just light surface rust patches? did you need any welding done prior to this?


I do fear the mess apparently its the smell too. might upset the neighbours.

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They washed it down with a power washer, allowed to dry, then steam. Next day applied treatment to rust areas (mine was pretty solid and only had surface on the jacking points) the dinitrol applied.

I could imagine your drive might get messy but it is definitely do-able at home. If I had more space I would have done it. 

Edited by pfnsht
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