Airone 16 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Now chaps I have done quite a bit reading on here since I first registered and learnt quite a bit regarding my latest VAG, However, I presume since my motor is 24v and red lines around 6-7k sureley it should not be running out of puff at around 4K?? I have done a full scan with my basic Vagcom resulting in this, VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 B Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1 V006 Software Coding: 00132 Work Shop Code: WSC 314406 Faults Found:16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too High P0118 - 35-00 - -16497 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P0113 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent16486 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P0102 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent16891 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P0507 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent17550 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P1142 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate – Intermittent I cleared then and went for a mixed drive slow and steady and more exuberant on the dual carriage ways within the law of course, Then found these, VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US Control Module Part Number: 1J0 920 922 F Component and/or Version: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V26 Software Coding: 05464 Work Shop Code: WSC 00468 Additional Info: IMMO-IDENTNR: VW************ 2 Faults Found:00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent01176 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 07-10 - Please Register/Activate – Intermittent Its coming up with these two air temp sensors G17 and G62 are either of these the blue sensor that keeps cropping up? I am in the process of googling the rest of the fault codes to find out whet exactly is wrong, Also can anyone tell me what exactly the secondary air pump does and can I remove it?? Cheers in advance for any help you can offer :) VR6Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Right it looks like I may have an air leek and or those two sensors need changing, Still stuck on the secondary air pump??? Link to post Share on other sites
craggsy 91 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Secondary air pump can be removed. You will need a blanking plate http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Integrated-Engineering-SAI-Block-off-Plate-Kit-for-MK4-24V-R32-VR6.html something like that. But it will throw up a code that will need coding out Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 2 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 The feeling you have with that engine is the way they normally feel. Lots of nice low ends grunt that appears to tail off. Obviously any codes need to be rectified but its just the charatcer of the engine. . Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 I see Coulstar I have been running TDi's for the last ten year so its just the nature of the beast it does pull very hard upto 3-4k and as you just tails off. Cheers hopefully the other faults will help my MPG .............................................a little. Link to post Share on other sites
parki 2 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Shouldn't run out of puff at 4k mine pulls its hardest after then bit flat between 2 and 3 then pulls its head off, yes they're grunty low down but i find they like to be rung to get the best out of them!! Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Engine tone seems to change at about 3.5k like the old Dual Ram Carlton GSI's........ Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 They have a variable geometry inlet Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) Cheers Lukey, Your post about the variable geometry inlet gave me an idea, If mine is faulty then that would explain the drop off in power at high rpm's so I did a little gooogling found this on Vortex The thread is about turbo charging I believe but this post strengthened my theory, Qoute:-It's easier to read the full sized version.The colors are red and light red.. blue and light blue.. and so forth.. Anyway.. What's interesting about this is that the variable manifoldisn't a true long runner/short runner configuration, in that airdoes not actually *flow* through the "long runners" in any volume.The intake shifter rod just opens up a passageway to a resonatorchamber. This shows it Green is actual airflow into the engine.Blue is the path of the pressure/sound pulse that occurs when the inflowing airbounces off the closing intake valves. The pulse travels up throughthe open shifter rod into the resonator chamber where it is reflectedstraight back (red) and arrives at the intake valve when it's next open. Thatpulse actually helps *cram* some more air into the cylinder. A carwith a good variable intake can acheive a VE > 1.0 at certainrpms, using this trick or a variation of it.Anyway, what's amazing here is that with the shifter rod held open,in the long runner configuration that there's such a HUGE decrease inpower at high rpms. The reason this dyno is confusing to look at, isbecause it's down 40 lb-ft at 6000 rpms, and 60 hp at 6500 rpms.That tells me that at the high rpms, the reflected pulses are actuallypulling air away from the intake valves instead of pushing it in. Unqoute:- So tomorrow I fit the sensors and check all the linkages control arms and what not regarding the throttle shifter rod in the inlet and of course the secondary air which may well find itself flung into some corner of the shed.............. Edited December 18, 2013 by Airone Link to post Share on other sites
parki 2 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 just get someone to give it a good hard rev while you watch to see if the changeover valve is working which is at the front right of the in let Link to post Share on other sites
bells 5 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 They have a variable geometry inletI thought the early 24v engine didn't have this , might be wrong though Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Well I have been running this for a while now and find this power restriction is getting worse all the noise with no lift my 110 afn tdi is quicker, I have addressed all of the results above and am starting to wonder if the cat or rear silencer is causing a restriction in the exhaust resulting in a huge loss of power. Anyone had this problem??????? Link to post Share on other sites
craggsy 91 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 A buggered cat can seriously hold the car back VR6Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Swivelonit 119 Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 When I first got mine, it was holding back as you describe, I also scanned it with shareware software, once I did a proper scan with a genuine VCDS Ross Tech cable a lot more codes showed up, the problem my car had was the lateral sensor on the bulkhead, I changed this and the car was completely different. I went on to replace the Lambdas too, this also made a huge difference, full VCDS will show which one is the problem. As said, your engine should pull well to the red line. Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Cheers Swivleonit, I've never even herd of a lateral sensor so I need a proppa scan with proppa VCDS thanks again just need to find someone local with full setup. Swivelonit 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Swivelonit 119 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 If you were closer I would have scanned it for you. Airone 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Right sorted a full scan and this is what came up, I already fitted a new airflow meter but apparently it has to be a proppa Bosch part so I'm gona try a bosch airflow meter and the oxygen sensor, Any idea which is bank 2 sensor one and were is the camshaft sensor? Cheers fella's........ Link to post Share on other sites
Bealieboy 1,625 Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I've heard that only oem is a suitable replacement for the maf and also that a faulty maf will throw other codes too, start with the maf and get the codes cleared and then rescan if you've still access to the scanner, although for the cost of the lambda probe, you may as well replace that and then clear the codes, fingers crossed it will sort your issue! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Airone 16 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 (edited) WELL!!!!! Put a "used" Bosch air flow meter on a shit a brick what a difference it pulls all the way to the red line and doesn't lett! gets to about 4. 4 1/2 and its like hitting the power band on my old KX250 crosser...... What a machine I can't believe the difference mind especially after spunking 90 quid on a brand new pattern part last year... Just hooked up the trailer and dragged a transit pickup up the yard to weigh in and it was like towing a little up! or mini ( BL Mini that is ) or summat the thing just pulls and pulls........ Very happy bunny!! it can do 10 mpg for me I like it very very lots!!!!! Might even fix the rear arch now......... Edited December 9, 2014 by Airone Bealieboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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