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chalkyh last won the day on January 1 2021

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About chalkyh

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  1. Just been looking through the parts diagrams for a New Year's keeping busy task lol, there's the usual radiator 3 pin temp switch that is usually the hoses side of the rad just below the top hose, there's another oddity - looks like a fan series resistor is fitted for the various fan speeds like a heater fan resistor - so I guess if that goes faulty then the fan would only work in max mode (like the upper temp 105 deg switch being tripped). Items are 6: Fan Switch 1H0 959 481B for the 3 pin, there's a 2 pin listed as well 06A 919 501 A. The series resistor 2 is 7M0959506A and is only used on S
  2. I've heard POR15 is the stuff to use - I've never personally as I'm still using the last of a very old tin of Finnegans No1, the rust converters available (like Jenolite) can leave an acidic residue that starts the corrosion process again, so I avoid! Bare metal and good damp proof primer has been my method over the last 15 years or so. Finnegans (the makers of Hammerite) has changed a lot (the VOC content removed) so the stuff newer than 15 years old or so just doesn't seem as good. POR15 is available direct from them (US based), or from Frosts auto restoration here, big money tho
  3. Yep, 2 vr’s and an 8v GTi - apart from the blue 3 door now, I was after another VR6 after having one way back in 2005, that one was a low miler too but can’t imagine what the body is like on it now - there were a few bad bits developing on it then. Was still taxed and mot’d this year though - so a survivor! L942EPL, nice in satin silver and had the blaupunkt speaker shelfs in the back too. I’ve hot them in the grey 5 door too!
  4. That's some good body repair work on yours Harry, my grey N reg needs a few bits doing really - although appears reasonable, MOT time this month so will see just what it needs no doubt - that's been a bit of a money pit, plus it's previously recorded as I've just found out, so not worth much, not that it matters I suppose. I might just get rid and wait for a good late 5 door non Highline. The GTi will most probably go this year too, especially as for the New Year I'm out of work! That's only done 62k but is a lowly 8v.
  5. After having my grey VR apart to do the crack pipe after changing the oil cooler that was putting oil into the coolant, I ended up changing all the housings onto the head because I was just chasing new leaks - in the end the thermostat elbow, sensor housing and crack pipe elbow and all o-ring seals - there were fine little cracks that were allowing coolant to get past the head o-ring 2 - and also the new crack pipe top o-ring into 19 had a little cut in it when donkey here assembled it all up. Those plastics warp and are generally not so good if original. The head o-ring 2 in the pic will run
  6. I'd put it up for 4k and the guy didn't make offers, just paid it! It needed some body dings doing, and maybe 4 panels painting to make immaculate, I thought I'd priced it high, but a grand or so short compared to the Highlines up for sale that don't seem to sell!
  7. Sold this back in September to a trader, it's back up for sale - I've no connection to the seller! Kerching! Is this a realistic valuation? https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1289709
  8. Agree with Pete there absolutely, and there's lots of variables. Yep, in answer to your original question, are the fans running after every run: NO. But, if I've been stuck in slow traffic, the ambient temp is greater than 25deg C or it's been driven like a VR should, YES, so as Pete says - it's dependant on lots of factors. These cars are old now, and to get one of mine right (with only 62k and dealer history) it took: crack pipe, thermostat housing, thermostat, radiator upper hose, main radiator, both temp switches on the thermostat housing, radiator fan switch - all to original
  9. I had loads of choices with my 2 cars - all the cooling issues in the end down to the fan switch on the radiator. Original temp ratings are 84-95 / 102 deg C for the 3 pin 1H0959481B fan switch with the squareish plug. It's under a lot of switching load, and the contacts burn out internally. If you're in the states, Rock Auto sell the VEMO V159919771, it looks right and has goth the right temp switch points - just check that your fan switch plug is the squareish (not triangle) one.
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