dave_424
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Everything posted by dave_424
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It's generally accepted that 15psi is safe with a GT35 turbo, can possibly push it to 20. That's with head spacer, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs and a very good tune.
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I'm not sure you understand how turbo boost works. Boost is what you set it to, and will stay at that psi. Unless you want more power, then you can turn it up. Because I'm on standard pistons and conrods I don't want to push the power too high so have set my boost level to around 15psi to be safe. I have run over 20 briefly. Also using the plastic intake manifold so dont want that to break. If I wanted to I could turn it up to 30psi but things would start to go bang.
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Here boost was about 12-13 psi
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Starts building boost a bit above 2000rpm and full boost at 3000. Max boost is whatever you have the system set at.
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I too found there too many options for the gt3582r so I phoned up turbo dynamics to order. It's a . 82 exhaust housing, t3 flange and 4.bolt exhaust outlet (ideally I would have liked v-band) also a 4" compressor inlet
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I haven't had it on a rolling road yet, but it's expected to be 400+ bhp at the crank. Not sure of the amount of drivetrain loss through the 4wd system
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One problem I see is that what can you offer that is better than the cheap china cast manifolds now that are sub £100? Anyone looking to spend a few hundred or wants to make big power will be looking at a tubular manifold
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I got mine from http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk, I think it was £1050 for the turbo with next day delivery
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My car is 100% a street car, and I have only really had turbo diesels so I wanted a suitable amount of low end power and for the boost to come in at a reasonable RPM so you don't have to spend all the time in the high RPM's. Like RBPE said I have the 02m 4wd trans with a 4 paddle clutch so I don't have any worries about breaking it any time soon. My build was for a reliable 400-500bhp, for use as a daily driver. I've turned the boost up to approx 18psi but totally forgot about my plastic intake manifold, might have to turn it down before it cracks/blows I have a feeling tha
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Check out my build thread on here. Mine is the 24v engine with a GT3582r .82 and I'm at full boost by 3k rpm and seems to not run out of puff at redline. This was low'ish boost around 12-13 psi
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Standard red stuff is what I use, no problems
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The issue is that I can't run two cars at the same time and I will be at a time where I will have just finished university and unsure about where I will be in the near future. However with the cost of fuel coming down I may still keep it. If I get a good offer then I will let it go and start playing around with a BMW 330D, but if not then I'll keep it. I did see those two R32 turbo's for sale, definitely asking for too much but if you compare it to the prices of any other cars with that power then they are good value for money.
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Hi guys, sadly I think I might have to sell my V6 4motion turbo in the not too distant future and would like to hear your guys opinion on what you think it's worth. The car is a 2002 V6 4motion in black with black r32 alloys with 107k miles and full service history. The car has Ball bearing gt3582r Full custom 3" turbo back exhaust with one rear silencer Tial wastegate Large front mount intercooler Head spacer Arp head studs New coated big end bearings Arp rod bolts Sachs 4 puck sintered clutch and heavy duty pressure plate 630cc injectors United motorsports tune Innovate air fuel, boost,
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Calm down, I've got a 6th gear.... Do you mean that the RPM's are at 4000rpm when cruising, or that there is an electrical problem that is keeping the RPM needle at 4k even though you know the RPM's are changing?
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ECU won't affect the cruising RPM's. To change that you would need to look at your gearbox and differential crown/pinion gears
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I think some of the misinformation comes from people talking about the 12v vr6 engine not bing compatible with some of the r32 stuff. I have definitely seen somewhere, someone had the pistons protruding up out if the bores.
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When the R32/vr6 engine fails from normal use it generally is due to a spun big end bearing. That's why most people, myself included, change the big end bearings out for the black coated ones found in the R36 engine
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Not enough clearance in the block to swing the connecting rod big ends?
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Let me guess, pistons come up out of the bore a bit?
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Read my build thread here http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/topic/46794-v6-4motion-turbo-build-thread/ I will get you the part numbers for the bearings tomorrow
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Thanks for the feedback guys, I'm driving it every day since I finished it and have experienced no problems.
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Running 15psi at the moment with a GT35R turbo, so around 400bhp+ would be my guess. EDIT: Accidentally turned my best controller the wrong way and boosted to 22psi, injectors handled that fine but good god it was fast
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I've got 630cc's in my 24v vr6 turbo, they work great
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On the everything vr6 turbo Facebook page, someone asked about supertech valves and most people didn't like them and recommended ferrea valves instead
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From the information in my build thread you can see what I've brought for the turbo conversion, and I believe I am under £4k and under £6k including the cost of the car. Just to give you an idea on costs. Obviously I have done every piece of labour and fab work on the car which is how I have managed to keep costs down
