Cooz93
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Everything posted by Cooz93
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Have you done it on your car? The only reason I didn't want to buy brand new incase it didn't work so I didn't waste money. What did you do about abs sensor?
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Cheers for that. Did come across a wee write up explaining what to do. Hopefully there will be a 9n in the scrappy!
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Thanks mate! Appreciate it.
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quote name="Bealieboy" post="433886" timestamp="1422825005"] Good work cooz! How did you get on with the s/c? Just waiting on a few pics from d11ps then it will hopefully be on its way to me:)
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Today I painted the callipers, decided to do them indoors as it was crazy cold in the garage. Turned out not bad. I then went about stripping the rear beam. Suffered from the classic rounded carrier bolts so got inventive with a grinder and screw driver.. Done a trial buff to see how well the wire cup I bought was going to work. Turned out alright. Will probably end up shot blasting all the nueks and crannies but we shall see. Also had to butcher the brake compensator as the bolts were seized.. Also bought these a while back from the US. Major pain to find!! That's it for now!
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Hi guys. Will be coming to do the 256mm upgrade on the rear of my Golf soon and wondering what to do about the bearings? Do the mk3 bearings fit inside the mk4 disks? Or do the mk4 bearings fit onto the mk3 shift? Anyone that's done this have any info? Cheers
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256mm rear brake set up blasted ready for painting then rebuild. Hopefully get the first coat done tomorrow. Will also make a start of stripping the rear beam and buffing it down for painting.. More to follow tomorrow:)
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Maybe post this in the wheels brakes and suspension section mate.. Probably get more attention there:)
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I had a weird intermittent taping from front end, left hand side of engine. My also had the same issue on his old mk3 and turned out to be a bearing on the water pump, or one of the bearings down in that areA. I gave the bearings in that area a little squire with wd40 and it went away. Worth a try!
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The only difference between obd1 intake mani and OBD2 is the throttle body. So as long as you keep the original OBD2 throttle body you'll be good to go!
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Hi guys. Looking good for a complete, or almost complete supercharger kit for my vr6.. The newer the better rotrex, vf whatever. Or someone that can supply a kit for money that isn't daylight robbery! Cheers
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How hard was it to convert to teves20? Was was needing part Wise? Any info would be great! Cheers
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Ye that could be an issue. How often would the abs activate on one rear only? I just assumed a pulse was sent through the pump and it triggered all the brakes.. Probably wrong.
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Cheers for that. I'm guessing 2 pipes come out of the abs module. Would it affect the abs if I T-pieced it down to a single line then split it again after the new valve? I could see it having an affect if there was some form of traction control as they wouldn't be able to work independently but abs won't be a problem?
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Does it look like this? Should mean 2 front 2 back..
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Sourced this pic.. Number 22/23 are the two outlets for both rears. So I'm guessing there is two.. I'll have a look tomorrow incase obd1 differs. Cheers:)
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After speaking to a guy at work who's done pretty much what I'm after on his track nova, I'm pretty confident it will work. As long as I amn't carrying big loads and get it set up correctly. One question, on the obd1 master cylinder or abs module are there two outlets for rear brakes or just one? As the adjustable valves only have one inlet and one outlet so I'd possibly have to join the two lines at either side? Or block off one feed pipe at the cylinder/Abs module and have a single line in? I'd have a look but my cars down at the lock up:(
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Wildwood make a decent looking one, so I'll fire them an email tomorrow and see what they say. Will update tomorrow. Cheers:)
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Ye that would work well. Would be good to have it adjustable within cockpit. Just thinking about how fuel levels would affect the weight across the back. Do you think it would need adjusting between a full tank and low fuel Due to weight difference?
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Yes mate. I'd probably have it somewhere in spare wheel well/boot so it's 1. Protected 2. Easily accessible. Running new brake lines anyway so redirecting them shouldn't be an issue!
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Ye that a good point mate. I see where your coming from. I do intend to use the car as a track/weekend motor so the back seats are more than likely going to be missing.. I guess this would solve the issue of adjusting for differences in weight? What you reckon?
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There's a few places in the states that do full kits for vr6's Bahn brenner spring to mind. Have a look on their site. Black forest industries too. You'll be around $3-4000 for an off the sshelf kit. Unsure what sort of management you get with the kits. On a car with those miles, I'd be tempted to fully strip and rebuild the motor. For piece of mind. Which probably adds another $500-1000 considering you'll need a new headgasket and headbolts for a turbo's set up. Then add the price of a clutch possibly.. Give the guys at those sites an email. They'll know what they are talking about! Hope that
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Hi guys. Will be rebuilding my rear beam soon and I'd like to do away with the brake proportioning valve. Obviously I can't bypass it straight as all kinds of hell would break loose. So I'm guessing I have two options 1. Fit an OBD2 abs set up, as I believe they do without the valve.. For reasons I'm not sure. 2. Fit an in-line aftermarket valve. Unsure if I can do this. What's everyone's thoughts? Almost certain mine is broken after countless attempt to bleed rear brakes a few months back. Opinions appreciated:) In-line valve something like this.. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/bra
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Been thinking about getting round this break bias valve situation. Reading up that later OBD2's don't have it as their abs is better. So I'm thinking how two options. Retrofit an Obd2's abs system (pain) Get an in-line brake bias valve, like this. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/brake-proportioning-valves/allstar-performance-screw-type-brake-bias-valve Thoughts on this? I have a feeling the one on the beam is knackered as I was having major brake problems before I stripped, and pretty sure I've now broken it. And input appreciated:)
