c00k
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Posts posted by c00k
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Spent the last 2 weekends
touching up stone chips blending them in with 3000grit,
wet sanding small scratches with 3000 grit,
cutting lacquer back,
and detalting the body work,
I'd say between the 35-40 hours in total.In order it went:
clean and wash car, clay whole car, to remove any small tar spots or contaminates on surface.
check whole car for stone chips and scratches.
Clean stone chips of any existing wax or crap built up in them,
touch up with colour coded paint and lacquer mixed together,
(this takes a very steady hand, tiny paint brush, a lot of patients and quite a long time)
build up the paint in thin layers, only trying to fill the chip not the surrounding area.
Once slight higher than the paint surface leave to dry for 24h.
3000grit scratches out while waiting for touch up to dry,
(this sounds easy but can really mess your paint up if done wrong,
you don't want to push to hard or sand for to long and sand/burn through the lacquer down to paint surface,
make sure area is nice and clean, and your not dragging small spots of tar, or small bits of grit or crap around with the sand paper. 3000 grit is very very fine, the smallest contaminate will be rougher than the 3000 grit sand paper, and leave deeper scratches.
This is why I clayed the car first to help with this. Also listen to the sanding, you can hear it sounds like it scratching more or deep, stop, clean area and clean sand paper or get new sand paper)
After 24h 3000grit sanded the touch up back and blended them in, (Blending them in takes a good eye for detail. Sand to far and you can remove most of the touch up as most of them were very small. Not enough and you end up with a none smooth surface. It takes a lot of time and keep clean area and checking its not gone to far.)Then did the usual detail of car,
Tape up all areas I don't want to get cutting compound on.
Cutting compound - Meguiars diamond cut , with compound pad - Menzerna compound pad, 5.5" + 3".
Paint sealer - Chemical Guys blacklight, with medium pad - Dodo juice medium 6" pad , 2 layers whole car.
Wax layer - Dodo juice blue velvet, with polishing pad - Dodo juice finishing 6" pad. 2 layers whole car.
Final wax layer - Dodo juice purple haze pro, with polishing pad - Dodo juice finishing 6" pad. 2 layers whole car.Some of the stuff I used. Plus I used a lot more than in photo.
Photos on a none sunny day so the don't really do it any justice, hopefully get some better ones soon.
Paint reflection on none sunny slight cloudy day.
Can even see the 3 very thin phone lines infront of the clouds
Paint reflection.
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Many things to consider when making a forced induction engines and air and fuel ratios.
When it comes to the air side if things.....
Cool air is better yes.
Denser air is better with more oxygen.
More humid air is worse. (More water vapour)
Piping, width and how it flows is also a factor. More bends and corners the more this restricts the air flow.
The longer the piping the more drag. To wider pipe for to lower pressure will slow the air flow.
Coolers...
front mounts, side mouns, air to water, they all cause quite a lot of drag.
Yes they cool the air, but also cause boost loss through drag. So a poorly set up cooler, usually incorrect size for the type of set up it's on, can cause mayor boost loss. Correctly set up they can achieve maximum cooling with minimum drag and boost loss.
Keeping the inlet manifold cooler....
change to a 1.8t inlet temp sensor. These a plastic getting much less heat soak than the standard VR sensor. Also they are much more accurate at reading forced induction air. The sensor needs to be custom fitted.
Short runner intake manifold. these flow quicker, and do not go over the cylinder head. So run cooler than a standard VR inlet manifold.
If running a standard manifold could look at getting it ceramic coated or something to stop heat soak. Standard VR manifolds suffer from a lot of heat soak from the cylinder head underneath.
(This is why the ODB2 engine has a plastic rocker cover, an the earlier OBD1 egngine has a metal one, VW were trying to cure or help some of the heat soak from the cylinder heat by running a plastic rocker cover transferring less heat. Same reason newer R32's have a plastic inlet manifold to help even more with heat soak)
Same as inlet piping and exhaust, can be ceramic coated to stop heat soak and keep temps down.
heat wrapping for hot side of turbo.
There's still more to consider about air and flow if you really want to get in to the nitty gritty and very technical.
Plus there's even more to consider when it comes to engine set-up, and more again when it comes to ECU's, management and tuning.
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Boosted OEM+ gets my vote.
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6 hours ago, boab3 said:
Bearings removed were bog standard no angular contact ones.looks like they use the spring loaded coupler for any floating in bearings under boost think I'll keep the coupler get 2 new angular contact bearings and do a rebuild new seals new o rings and fresh oil.
Sounds like a plan,
what width is the spring loaded coupler, if it's about 10mm then its been used instead of the 3rd bearing.
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Fair play mate, loads and loads of work gone in.
Keep it up dude, and will be mint in not to distant future.
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You can re-aline the throttle body using vag-com.
Im not sure of the angle off the top of my head sorry, but re-alining it with vag-com should solve any angle issues.
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Loads of mk3's,
should be able to make a very nice VR6 out of all 3
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Looks cool,
keep the updates coming.
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Looks good buddy,
The building next to my work does vinyl wrapping,
i've wrapped quite a few things over the years, started by getting tips off the guys who work next door.
3M accredited is what you want to look at doing, 3-4 day course if I remember right.
And 3M vinyl is meant to be one of the best to buy an use.
They do some brilliant work next door to me, they did a show car scirocco in matt grey.
Some of the top place in my opinion are Raccoon graphics, Pop-in graphics, and Brandz vehicle wrapping.
I almost had my black VR wrapped a few years ago not long after I 1st bought it. but decided not to.
I like polishing my cars to much. But they do look cool in matt colour for temporary time.
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Loads more has been happening as well, but I will update soon......
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Got my Audi 80 gauges fitted, and all wired up.
Not hard at all to wire up, just need 12v, 12v switched, ground, illumination, and single wire each for the sensors.
I was suprissed at how easy they were to fit.
Fainly got a photo of my boost gauge that has been in there ages now lol
All the gauges have red illumination to match dials and all my switches.
I've had my 280mm steering wheel in there for ages now, I do still like it but fancied a change.
So I bought an Audi TT mk2 flat bottom steering wheel,
Direct fit, if your willing to loose the air bag and horn. (Or wire horn up to push switch on dash)
I wanted the horn in the centre of the steering wheel, not on a dash button like a lot of people when they retro fitting flat bottom steering wheels, so I custom fitted the golf mk3 slip ring to the flat bottom steering wheel. Giving me the horn function in the Center of the steering wheel.
Bought a MK7 golf airbag cover, which is slight smaller than the Audi one, but it has a VW badge in the middle
I'm thinking of painting the sliver part gloss black, abit like the RS3 steering wheel.
I'm also hoping to re-wire the buttons and get them illimanted, as they already are red.
But the problem is they are meant to communicate with a can-bus system. Not OBD2 with centeral electrics.
the black on the centre of seat is just a black towel, so the drivers seat doesn't get dirty while I'm working on it.
I have have a few ideas of what to do with the buttons on the steering wheel.
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Going to be a beast!!!
Keep it up buddy
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16 hours ago, wayne_1@tiscali.co.uk said:
Coming on well
Cheers buddy
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While I had the rear bumper off I sorted a few patches of rust on the rear arches, before they got to bad and turned in to holes,
One of the rusty areas. Like I said before this is just my daily. Not a mint show car.
Ground the areas back so almost all the rust was gone. Then started to treating the very minor remaining rust with rust treatment gel, and wire brushing it.
Another area I ground back before treating remaining rust.
The very bottom of the rear inner arches wasn't the best either, so need attention. It looks a lot worse than it actually was in the photo as it's covered in rust treatment.
After grinding the areas, treating with rust removing gel, finally treated the areas with some rust nuterlising treatment, and got them in to some high build primer.
Sanded the areas nice and smooth and blended the primed in. Then got them in to some colour coat.
Knew my old max power magazines would come in useful one day. Lol
Tried making a soft edge to blend the paint a bit more by just folding the edge of paper and not taping directly where I'm painting.
While I had the compressors and touch up gun out, I repainted the plastic booth plinth.
couldn't be assed to take it off car, as two of the screws were knackered and needed drilling out.
Also got a few more layers on the passenger window lip.
Fianly not got everything in to lacquer.
There was a tiny bit of over spray I buffed off the next day with my mop. I was using a small touch up gun, 0.8mm and lowest pressure.
Got a black cap for my windscreen washer tank, can see in some of my pervious post it used to be blue.
Helps it blend in a bit more.
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Removed the rear bumper to give it a good clean, put cavity wax and underseal in a few places before winter.
Stinking dirty rear end.
Removed the bumper brace, and gave it a good clean.
Put cavity wax in the rear chassis legs.
Ground back a few tiny bits of rust on the rear bumper brace while I had it off the car. Gave it a good clean, quick sand and painted it in underseal. Refitted it with new stainless washer and nuts.
While I had it up on the ramps I swapped the middle exhaust bushes for some polyurethane ones. And new fixings on the heat shields.
Gave the petrol tank a good clean, the straps were in very good condition.
Also while under the car cleaning stuff and checking everything on the rear end, while cleaning I found it had good ridge braided rear hoses.
amazing what getting ride or a few layers of crap shows up.
Cleaned the whole of the underneath of the car with thinners while checking for rusty or bad areas. This was such a dirty job. Went through loads and a loads of nitrile gloves. Then put a layer of new underseal with waxoyl on the whole under side. Fair play the underneath is good. Apart from welding on the passenger sill which was done buy a pervious owner and the very bottom of the rear arches which I'm sorting. The under side is very good condition and all original.
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I'm after a genuine VW thermostat housing,
After just main housing,
but will take a whole unit if buyer wants.
Must be genuine VW not aftermarket.
No splits or cracks.
And No inner lip missing.
Cash waiting!
Cheers Cook
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Welcome buddy
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Having knocking issues and can't figure it out,need help!
in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Posted · Edited by c00k
Use the old block of wood or screw driver trick to help pin point the sound more,
Put a thin bit of wood or long screw driver on the touching underneath of sump put you ear touching the wood or screw driver, and listen for the knock.
Now repeat on cylinder head, time chain covers, the louder the knock the near you are to the problem,
by testing in different places you should be able to determine the rough area of the problem.
If the con rod bearings have spun badly and misshaped or scored the crank, just replacing the bearings will not fix it.
As mentined above the crank would need to be re-ground and oversized matched bearings fitted.
Or get a new replacement crank
I replaced the engine in my mulberry highline because of crank shaft damage,
it was easier for me to build up new engine and drop that in than do a full bottom end rebuild and crank re-grind.
Worth going for the ARP bolts if you going for higher figures with forced induction.
Also uprated con-rod bearings, and main bearings (big end bearings)
while in there and sump (oil pan) is off, check and clean oil pick up,