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wardycatt

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Everything posted by wardycatt

  1. wardycatt
    If the entire window fails to demist then you need to check the electrical connections - is current reaching the element at the back for starters? Other likely causes are the tracks on the window wearing out / breaking or being covered by stickers. You can by repair stuff from Halfrauds or eBay and (i think) basically draw the tracks back on to the window. Doesn't look pretty but it gets the job done. I only have two tracks working - it's like looking through a letterbox. Alternatively, every scrappy in britain has a golf mk3 tailgate in their yard! Go and remove a window, or better still jus
  2. wardycatt
    Start with the easy things and work your way down. Leads, plugs, coil, air filter, MAF, leaky hoses , fuel filter, fuel pump and anything else mentioned above. Unfortuantely there's a shed-load of things that this could be. Check everyting related to the fuel / air mixture, and (as stated above), a VAGCOM check wouldn't go amiss. The 'very dirty' intake might be my first port of call. Any crap getting into the engine certainly isn't doing it any favours. Maybe try that injector cleaning stuff also (i'll probably get shot for suggesting that). However, if it's getting progressively worse, it
  3. wardycatt
    I've been trying to install my stereo (which I've put in my previous two motors), but for some reason it won't work. I've tested power to the wiring loom (it's OK), but since the stereo wasn't working when plugged in, I bypassed the wiring loom and took power direct (via inline fuse) from the battery. No good. Testing suggests that power is coming through the wiring loom, so I bypassed the ground and ignition wires as well. Still no joy. I've cross examined the adapter I bought and compared it to the stereo manufacturer's pin guide. everything is correct in this respect. I've checked the fu
  4. wardycatt
    It might be worth just replacing the whole tensioner assembly. I got it (new) for £42. About a tenner for the belt. 15 minute job. I went to B&Q for a 100mm M8 hex bolt (to press spring in tensioner). The 100mm bolt was so long that the head didn't interfere with the two fuel lines nearby. I only used a fraction of it's length. A 13mm socket was the only tool I used, but that's with no airbox. With an airbox a 13mm spanner would also be required. If I ever hear a squeak from that region again, I'm replacing the tensionier wheel immediately. You've only got a few miles to get home / garag
  5. wardycatt
    Thanks for the quick replies. All I want to do is give my standard VR6 a kick up the backside. If the supercharger is the easy-install, easy-maintenance option and it gives me in the region of 250bhp that's brilliant. But surely it can't be that simple, can it? One other thing - how does the fuel economy compare between the two?
  6. wardycatt
    The words 'budget' and 'VRT' in the same sentence send shivers down my spine, but now I've done all the minor servicing and have started on the bodywork of my Mk3 Golf, I've got half an eye on forced induction at some point in 2012. My intention is NOT to set fastest times at Santa Pod or go drag racing, but to be on a par with some slightly beefier cars, such as a standard-spec Mk2 Focus ST (225bhp, 235lb/ft) or Mk5 Astra VXR (237bhp, 236 lb/ft). At the last check, my (fairly standard) car was putting out about 185bhp. I would like to maintain the car's reliability, but I'm on a very tight
  7. wardycatt
    Hankook 'Ventus' - I think they cost me about 90 quid each from black circles. They seem to offer good performace in the wet. I've not crashed this winter, which is a start. You'd have been running about on your bare rims if you waited for my reply. Sorry about that!
  8. wardycatt
    So long as there's no issues with fuel consumption etc. I don't think there's anything to worry about. The figures provided are exactly what I get, but mine decreases when idling. Would resetting the ECU maybe clear it? Is it worth doing that if there are no other issues?
  9. wardycatt
    Cheers Pete. I'll need to look into VAG-COM in more detail. When you say a short drive, how short do you mean? I've only done about 5 miles so far. Even if the light did go out, I should have got it back from the garage in 100% working order. That's what I paid them for, the scoundrels!
  10. wardycatt
    Adjustable ride height allows you to set the car up to suit yourself. I've tinkered with my springs a few times, and it's sorted the handling out brilliantly. So whatever you get, make sure it's adjustable. I've been able to customise mine to suit my driving needs - the previous owner had it slammed and used pishy tyres, which (although the car stuck to the road in the dry) seemed to make the car twitchy at times and the handling in the rain was downright dangerous. I'm running 16s at the moment, with Hancook's on all four corners. The tyres are especially suited to wet weather, which is hand
  11. wardycatt
    The price for that one on eBay is mega-steep in my opinion. I don't speak from experience, but I doubt there's much difference between an engine with 75k on it compared to one with 100k - certainly not over a grand's worth of difference! I got a 100k Mk 3 Golf VR6, with full VW service history, for £1400. And it looks better than that thing on eBay. Those plastic strips are horrid. Dragon Green FTW!
  12. wardycatt
    Hi All, I've just had my rear pads and disks replaced. One of the callipers was knackered, and this was also replaced, along with the brake line. The ABS light now comes on as soon as I start moving. I had a quick check and everything seems fine. The handbrake cable is a bit more loose than when I put it in the garage (or maybe it was just really tight when the calliper was on the way out?) and the brake fluid reservoir is full, as in, just about overflowing. Has the garage failed to reset something? Could the high brake fluid level or loose handbrake cable be causing this? Does anyone hav
  13. wardycatt
    More questions than answers I'm afraid... :^) 1. Could it be something to do with the clutch as opposed to the gearbox? 2. Does it stay in gear ok once it's in? 3. Does it affect every gear? 4. And what's the noise like? - a whine, a grind, a rattle (or whatever)
  14. wardycatt
    I reckon you'd feel a vibration if it was the wheel bearing but it's worth a shot. The bearing on mine went from working fine to vibrating badly over the space of a week or two. The sound stopping after you take the wheel off is weird, but could be the key to finding the problem. What's causing the noise to stop? :^)
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