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craig46

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Everything posted by craig46

  1. craig46
    AVG also gave me warnings of a attack on front page, told me it blocked a malware file i think, was fine when ive just came back on the site, this happened yesterday.
  2. craig46
    Hi Guys, Been helping a guy with a water leak, found the problem to be the gasket on the thermo housing, sourced the part and left him to it, but after a phone call and later a visit, it looks like one of the threads have stripped so i now need to order a helicoil kit for him, however i do not have the bolt to hand (the small one of the three - presume they're the same thread sizes anyway) and was wondering if anybody knows the thread size, I remember it looking like an M5 standard pitch but need some clarification. Thanks Craig
  3. craig46

    ride hight

    craig46 replied to will1987's topic in General Chat

    With road handling I'm guessing your going to want to get the diagonal cross weight 50.0 per cent, for good handling in both left and right hand bends, toe and camber would want to be in a good neutral position - tyre wear is a good indication on the road and is the only real way to tell what the best set up is within reason - unless you go into looking at temperatures. Ride height is personal preference, ideally try running lower at the front than the rear, then zero rake, then lower at the rear than the front, you should notice differences in oversteer/understeer and longitudinal acceleratio
  4. craig46
    Had the exact same problem. I can tell you the problem lies with the immoboliser, however there are a few things that could be up, ranging from as simple as dodgy connections behind the steering wheel, or a faulty coil reader. You can pick a vr6 coil reader up off ebay for about a tenner, but first just trace the wires and make sure everything is sound. If youre not bothered about having an immboliser or you have an aftermarket alarm with immobolisation i would be done with it, send your ecu to one of the dealers on here and for 80 quid or so can rid of the system so you wont have this proble
  5. craig46
    Any chance of pics of installation when it gets done? Mine are in same state as yours by the sounds of it, and thought it would be expensive.
  6. craig46
    right guys, as title suggests im in the middle of fitting some poly bushes in my wishbones, i have just come to take the bolt out of the front right of the wishbone but the sump is in the way... is there any way around this? is it a case of lifting the engine? cheers, craig
  7. craig46
    Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here but basically if you look at the back of the engine bay on the firewall, you will see quite easily two pipes going into the cabin, if you take these off at the firewall and get some pipe to sit over these and then two jubilee clips to make them water tight. Cable tie the pipes up in order to stop them flapping about. Will cost you no more than a fiver.
  8. craig46
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  10. craig46
    Yeh after all the problems, my last ditch effort before buying parts was to remove the column surround to access the wiring and i had a look around to make sure there was no dodgy connections. As I took the surround off i got a better look at the chip reader (brown circular thing at the end of barrell) and thought if it was on its way out it might just be recieving a weak signal from the key so thought if i moved it closer to the key it might help - and it did, i drove around for a while without the surround so that if it dropped back down and wouldnt start i could move it back up. This happen
  11. craig46
    Try just shuffling the coil reader further up the barrell towards the key, worked for me, not had problem for well over a month and it did become a pain in the arse!
  12. craig46

    Vpower...

    craig46 replied to ollie_'s topic in General Chat

    Using normal unleaded will be fine, although you will lose perfomance and economy (noticeable but small losses) and also lose the avdanced cleaning agents found in premier fuels which do benefit your engine. Obviously though if push comes to shove then I don't think normal unleaded will cause any problems. Interesting read on performance gains if anybody is interested: http://www.thorneymotorsport.co.uk/tuning/Fuel_Test_Results_Update.shtml
  13. craig46
    That's really impressive, looking forward to the finished article though, great read
  14. craig46
    Could well be a problem with the bearings or hubs, have you been able to check that they have been pressed in straight? If you do the work yourself, i'd first just get it up on the stands and do a full spanner check on the front to elimate anything loose, and go from there.
  15. craig46
    Don't go out and just buy a ps3 for this... Splash out even more on a 3d tv, you won't regret it!
  16. craig46
    Right, well i'm unsure whether the crank sensor is causing this. The past 3 days I have held the black wire inwards (sort of pushing in to better the connection) coming from the coil reader (brown) and not had a starting issue. Is this the earth lead that you are on about? Is there anyway of improving the connection if it is? Or do I have to buy a new one? Thanks Craig
  17. craig46
    Right, well got the local mechanic to put it through the diagnostic, came back with something that i havent heard before about intermittent ecu, he seems to think that isnt an issue as he has seen that many a times, however another problem that came up was the crank sensor. Now does anybody know if this can cause starting issues with an immboliser like symptom? P0i1 - I am going to check the earth you mentioned today, is the ground lead just under the upper steering column surround?
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  20. craig46
    Cheers guys, will post back VAG COM results when i get it hooked up.
  21. craig46
    Ok, well I have two contradicting posts, can anybody else shed some light on the oil pressure switch mentioned by smurf because that to me sounds the most plausible due to the cold issue and then once its started it can be cut off by myself and then started with no drama, which could be because the oil has circulated making the pressue easier to build up, which i think could have the same effect as firing the starter motor a couple of times. However if like p0u1 said, this may have no effect but I would really like to know... Hoping to get it hooked to vagcom though soon enough. As for the ke
  22. craig46
    I have but when it went on vag com it was for an abs issue so never looked into another code, maybe i need to get it hooked up again.
  23. craig46
    I think i will leave deactivating the immob as a very last resort because i wouldnt like leaving it that vulnarable. One thing to note is that this morning it took 3 attempts before the immob didnt kick in, then i drove it 20 seconds down the road to the shop (come on, dont judge its sunday and i got a bit lazy!) then went to restart and no drama, is twenty seconds of driving enough to warm anything up to a point where connections are bettered? I am really baffled. Also, i am using what i think is the spare key, because the other key i have is the one with the push button and the small led
  24. craig46
    Thanks for your reply. So do you think there is no link with the oil can flashing then? And do you know if the symptoms of the failing transponder coil do worsen when the engine is cold? Because if i run the car and then go back an hour or two later when it might still be a little warmish it will start with no problems. Cheers
  25. craig46
    Hi Guys, After 4 months of aggro when starting the vr from cold i think it's time to sort it out! Well, firstly upon starting in a cold morning the engine will turn over and run for about a second fine, but then it seems maybe the immobilizer kicks in and stops the fuel so the engine dies instantly. What is curious though is that it only does it when cold, and I do notice the oil can flashing when it cuts out or before i turn ignition to fully on to start the motor, then stops flashing, but whether it is flashing or not doesnt usually make a difference as to whether it decides to cut out. Howe
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