Jump to content

mattp1983

Members
  • Content Count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mattp1983

  1. That car was at inters in 2007, on the ukmkivs stand, he has many cars, was speaking to the guy at length over the weekend, he has two HGP R32s, one std R32 in DBP, an Audi RS4 (older type) and a porsche GT2, he had just brought the 2 turbo'd 32s and the RS4 that weekend to the show, the car is very nicely built and very stealthy.
  2. No the OBD1 and 2 MAFs are not the same (the 4 pin ones I mean) They carry different part numbers and if an OBD2 part is used with an OBD1 car then it will not idle, I know this from direct experience. The end part of the part number differs between the 2, incidentally the OBD1 part is dealer only whereas the OBD2 equivelalent is available through GSF. The 6 pin MAFs come on early cars, usually the dizzy models.
  3. I'm up for this, car is just about done, so reckon it should be there.
  4. I bought some formula power 10mm leads from ebay on the basis of a few recommendations on here. They use genuine VAG plug ends and are very heavy and look to be very good quality compared to the OE ones I just took off, bargain at £65 posted.
  5. my mates did that when he bought it and it was the coil pack that had gone.......
  6. I'll take it off and inspect it, thanks mate. Engine was stored in a bodyshop for a couple of years and everything was full of dust, had to replace a fair few ancillary parts. Guess the clicking I'm hearing could be something arcing out, thought it was chains at first but its intermittant and engine has only done 60k. Would the plug leads possibly cause this? I havnt changed those....
  7. My MK2 VR6 conversion cuts out about 10-20secs after firing up.... It seems to be over fueling, and just before it dies it starts to miss fire slightly. I have changed: MAF Coolant Temp sensor is brand new New plugs Swapped Relay 109 with a known working one out of my mk4. Vag com shows nothing. It is decatted with boss for lambda probe. Any ideas? Its a coil pack engine.
  8. Mine is OBD1, coolant temp sender was a brand new one out of my old digi 8v mk2, same part no... Although makes no difference if you plug that in/unplug it. Intake air leak could be a possibility as I have deleted the carbon canister..... (Its a mk2 conversion)
  9. mine does the same Comes up with a fault... MAF B+ short to ground...... Changed MAF and checked all wiring, still same fault....
  10. only on mk4 golfs, roll bar touches driveshaft on 2wd ones if they are too low.
  11. most come with it mate, its just not shown in the pic, they wouldnt mount to anything else with those two holes.... Basically there is a donut style gasket, the bolts are sprung and mount into the 3 hole flange which then tightens down to seal the gasket, leaving 3 holes to mount to the cat/decat...
  12. nope, the diff flanges are sealed, no oil loss, or there certainly shouldnt be...... lol.... Think a lot of french cars lose oil when changing them....
  13. Yup, thats connected, theres just 2 2 pin plugs that arent connected to anything....
  14. Well I connected the first one, lol..... The new one is from an OBD2 car, there are two extra 2 pin connectors on it, presumably to run auxillary functions directly, guessing air con for a start? There is the single blue wire going to a single pin connector near the gearbox, the main line going to the starter motor?
  15. It was a used one, One thing I forgot to add is that I changed the alternator and still have the battery light illuminated on the dash, could the car not be recieving enough voltage?
  16. Just converted my mk2 8v digi to a OBD1 VR6... (coilpack) Car fires up fine but runs rough, over fuels and wont idle, just cuts out unless throttle is held on until oil temp warms up... Once oil and water are at normal running temps it idles perfect... VAGCOM shows.... MAF B+ Short to ground, changed the MAF and repaired the 4-pin plug where insulation was broken on the wires, re soldered wires, heatshrinked and insulation taped each wire individually...... Have a spare crank position sensor to try and a lambda if any of these would help? Also its got a dub power low temp thermostat in there..
  17. he missed the .uk off.... link fixed... http://www.scott-lloyd.co.uk/
  18. yes definately, at worst its worth more than that to break it, and with a little tidying you could double/triple your money selling on or end up with a nice tidy car
  19. dubpower do them also, thats what I have in mine.
  20. Yeah the corrado ones will fit. Not ideal as slightly different spring rate at back but not really noticeable.
  21. Simplest is to fit your inlet manifold and throttle body and keep your existing OBD 1 setup.
  22. Driveshafts are about £100 ish I think, Ball joints about a tenner and the CVs £40 a pop, so in bits no more than £200. Labour shouldnt be too bad, its an easy enough job, hub nut off, undo ball joint from hub and wishbone, 4 nuts in total and then undo the splined bolts off the inner CV, remove, cut clips off boots, knock CVs off, knock new ones on then refit, jobs a good un, prolly not much more than 1-2 hours with a ramp and good tools, doing it yourself add another hour or so to that on the drive.
  23. I would be up for a meet, live about 10 min from wakey
  24. Well its no where near worth that, its not styled very well and its a bit chavvy for me. In his defence though... R32 brakes, he says the discs are from that, might be aftermarket 6 pots on there, and when he says just finished running it it he means its basically as new which to be fair it probably will be
×
×
  • Create New...