kawark

Missed that section!! Doh... Could Admin move for me??

Not sure were these should go but have a few bits for sale if anyone is interested? Contact number is : 07762 364143 *-) H&R Lowering Springs VW Golf III 3 VR6 Category: H&R lowering springs VW Golf III VR6 type: 1HX0, 1H year:>97 lowering (mm): 30 Order no. 29872 H & R lowering springs New in box and never fitted H & R sport springs provide the "entry-level product in the wide-ranging possibilities of H & R suspension modifications. The progressive spring characteristic ensures balanced for comfort with sporty driving dynamics secure. H & R lowering springs for e

Awesome work!!

Yes, alternator is a bit of a bast**d to remove. They say jack it up to remove one of the bolts so I have never tried without doing this. Imagine it would be a lot simple without manifold. Deffo think from your description that the alternator is bin fodder unless you recon it!!

Better track this thread then!! Is there anywhere showing your car and its build? Looks smart.

Hi, Only live in Runcorn and have wanted to go this for a while. Just seems a little expensive for the weekend when you factor camping with the family... Certainly be interested in a club stand. Mark

Hi, On mine the connector that clips onto the alternator had a faulty connection. I got an alternator still the same. On checking again it was the wire which attaches to the alternator (black one) and the connector cost me 2 quid!!! Based on your meter reading of 11 volts at tick over that sounds a little low to me. What was the static reading before starting and tick over? If its charging should be increasing when running not staying the same. Mine uses the 120 amp Bosch alternator and definetly read 11.5 volts off the battery then when running showed 13.5 volts (Good charging is upto 14.5 vo

Hi, Has your car got a/c? If so needs the 120amp and if its a non a/c model the 90amp will do. Cant remember the part number but think its Bosch 025/g. I had loads of trouble with mine and it wasn't the alternator but the wire. When static the battery will read 11 volts ish but when running should be upto 14.5 volts, meaning its charging. Check this out before spending all your money. Cheers Mark

Thanks Chaps, sounds like a couple of sockets are going to be used!!

Hi, Need to change the rear brakes on my vr and just wanted some assistance. I have owned my standard vr for 10 years and never had to change the rear disks and pads... Car now has 89000miles and are obviously knackered and with the mot coming up wanted it right.. I have just purchased some genuine disks, set of pads, bearings and abs rings to do the job properly. When I have unpacked everything it looks quite straight forward but remember reading something about pressing the bearings into the disks?? Is this really necessary as it looks a simple job to knock them in. Any advise would be appre

Hi, When did you last check the ignition leads and plugs? Any cracks in the dizzy/coilpack? Cheers Mark

I've got a T4 also. Unfortunately not a vr6 but great for the weekend when I go to watch the bike racing and vw shows... Would post a pick but don't know how!!!! Mark

Try Machine 7

I like design 1 and 2. Prefer 2 as a bottle opener but design 1 asa keyring. What's the deal and how much? Cheers Mark

Have you checked the car is charging correctly whilst running?? When engine running should have approx 13 - 14.5 v and whilst engine stopped should see about 11 v. If when running there is no charge it is either the wiring or alternator. I have a similar problem and mine was a dodgy/snapped wire onto the alternator. Hope this helps. Mark