jims13

looks like its the same questions again .
so to save them having to be asked i thought id put this brief email together that should answer most of your questions.
As you may or may not know , there are different ways to turbo a vr6 . ill list the main parts, its for you to decide were you purchase them and who fits them. remember its normally the fitment that screws up the running once its all together.
ill ammend it when i have time ( and correct my spelling mistakes )
people can add to it if they wish
any comments made that drag any company down will be removed .
turbo manifold - spa , ebay etc or your favored tuning firm
turbo - a externally wastegated unit is best . take your pick , ive successfuly used ebay twice and made 390 bhp at 17psi with supporting mods , else check out garrett or the normal tuning firms
you can spunk upwards of 1000 pounds on a new garrett unit , or as little as 180 ish on a ebay unit , ebay units tend to need a oil restrictor in line with the feed
inlet manifold - works well as is , short runners help with less pipework and on big hp/trq applications will make more power , but they do add upwards of 500 pounds to your build
injectors - Source new or recon'd , ebay is your best bet or a tuning firm , 440 cc units are popular .
maf housing - UM , Phirm , Ebay , a 4" maf housing is needed for anything over say 280 ish bhp . again choose carefully and id suggest buying this from the same place as the software
software - UM , Stealth, Phirm , Storm developments .
you only want to buy this once , choice is yours , prices are all similar i imagine . most people seem concerened with price , rather than the time thats gone into it or the support you get .
arp headbolts - straight from arp , or your favored tunning firm . i would always fit these . Down to you if you fit the bottom end stuff . perhaps not needed for anything less than 450 bhp .
spacer plate - again use The phirm , UM , or Ebay . you need to pay attention to the thickness of it as it does go hand in hand with your ultimate trq / power goal .
headgasket - self explaintry .. remember to get the metal layered unit, part no's on here if you look . remember the copper spray , i always use it .. works well for me .
cams - ive used 263's to very good effect , but your dont have to buy them . 268's dont seem to work as well according to the graphs ive seen .
exhaust - i made a additional 30 bhp from fitting a 3" system . up to you to decide where from .
downpipe - less restriction here is better . ideally 3" all the way , again UM , The Phirm , Stealth or your freindly powerflow dealer
external wastegate - spa, tial , ebay generic unit . again choice is yours , look at the size of it e.g 44mm , it does matter and should be sized with the turbo, and you goal for bhp .
clutch - i used a helix unit , very good clutch imho . you standard clutch will take around 290 ish bhp , and maybe 300 ish lbft or trq , but if you drive it like you stole it , it wont last . Expect to spend upwards of 350 pounds just on the clutch alone .
intercooler - this will more than likely be a core from ebay . as people generally fit them behind the front bumper . its all custom fit stuff.
Fpr - keep the standard 3 bar unit.. you dont need a 4 bar one .
fuel pump - standard units are hit and miss ive seen some be ok and not lean out at the top end on cars making 280 ish bhp , others havent made that .. a walbro unit is the best bet . all of our favorite tuners sell these , as does the bay of e . remeber to get the fitting kit else you wont be able to place it far enough down into the tank .
odds and sods - once you have brought what you think you need, you will also need, fuel lines, hose clips , tape , cable ties , etc .. this little lot alone can cost you big.
remember , before you start you need a idea of where you want to end up .. you can build a < 300 bhp vr6 turbo for around 1000 pounds , using methods detailed elsewhere on this forum .
For applications over > 300 , id suggest decent manifolds, turbo's and software .
The reason you pay good money for a kit from any tuner is that its known to work and time and effort has gone into it to produce reliability .
dont if you buy all your kit yourself from seperate suppliers , then moan at a software supplier when it doesnt run just as you would like .. as there are so many varibles its untrue .
if your doing a 24v conversion the same information mainly applies , parts required are roughly the same , but more expensive by roughly 20/30 %

nice one cheers..ill wire it in tonight

average time was just below 13, so the 12.5 may have been a good run, i had owned the car 5 years through many diff stages, and tbh ive been going to the pod since i passed my test , some 15-16 years ago, so im well versed in launching the car.

looks like its the same questions again .
so to save them having to be asked i thought id put this brief email together that should answer most of your questions.
As you may or may not know , there are different ways to turbo a vr6 . ill list the main parts, its for you to decide were you purchase them and who fits them. remember its normally the fitment that screws up the running once its all together.
ill ammend it when i have time ( and correct my spelling mistakes )
people can add to it if they wish
any comments made that drag any company down will be removed .
turbo manifold - spa , ebay etc or your favored tuning firm
turbo - a externally wastegated unit is best . take your pick , ive successfuly used ebay twice and made 390 bhp at 17psi with supporting mods , else check out garrett or the normal tuning firms
you can spunk upwards of 1000 pounds on a new garrett unit , or as little as 180 ish on a ebay unit , ebay units tend to need a oil restrictor in line with the feed
inlet manifold - works well as is , short runners help with less pipework and on big hp/trq applications will make more power , but they do add upwards of 500 pounds to your build
injectors - Source new or recon'd , ebay is your best bet or a tuning firm , 440 cc units are popular .
maf housing - UM , Phirm , Ebay , a 4" maf housing is needed for anything over say 280 ish bhp . again choose carefully and id suggest buying this from the same place as the software
software - UM , Stealth, Phirm , Storm developments .
you only want to buy this once , choice is yours , prices are all similar i imagine . most people seem concerened with price , rather than the time thats gone into it or the support you get .
arp headbolts - straight from arp , or your favored tunning firm . i would always fit these . Down to you if you fit the bottom end stuff . perhaps not needed for anything less than 450 bhp .
spacer plate - again use The phirm , UM , or Ebay . you need to pay attention to the thickness of it as it does go hand in hand with your ultimate trq / power goal .
headgasket - self explaintry .. remember to get the metal layered unit, part no's on here if you look . remember the copper spray , i always use it .. works well for me .
cams - ive used 263's to very good effect , but your dont have to buy them . 268's dont seem to work as well according to the graphs ive seen .
exhaust - i made a additional 30 bhp from fitting a 3" system . up to you to decide where from .
downpipe - less restriction here is better . ideally 3" all the way , again UM , The Phirm , Stealth or your freindly powerflow dealer
external wastegate - spa, tial , ebay generic unit . again choice is yours , look at the size of it e.g 44mm , it does matter and should be sized with the turbo, and you goal for bhp .
clutch - i used a helix unit , very good clutch imho . you standard clutch will take around 290 ish bhp , and maybe 300 ish lbft or trq , but if you drive it like you stole it , it wont last . Expect to spend upwards of 350 pounds just on the clutch alone .
intercooler - this will more than likely be a core from ebay . as people generally fit them behind the front bumper . its all custom fit stuff.
Fpr - keep the standard 3 bar unit.. you dont need a 4 bar one .
fuel pump - standard units are hit and miss ive seen some be ok and not lean out at the top end on cars making 280 ish bhp , others havent made that .. a walbro unit is the best bet . all of our favorite tuners sell these , as does the bay of e . remeber to get the fitting kit else you wont be able to place it far enough down into the tank .
odds and sods - once you have brought what you think you need, you will also need, fuel lines, hose clips , tape , cable ties , etc .. this little lot alone can cost you big.
remember , before you start you need a idea of where you want to end up .. you can build a < 300 bhp vr6 turbo for around 1000 pounds , using methods detailed elsewhere on this forum .
For applications over > 300 , id suggest decent manifolds, turbo's and software .
The reason you pay good money for a kit from any tuner is that its known to work and time and effort has gone into it to produce reliability .
dont if you buy all your kit yourself from seperate suppliers , then moan at a software supplier when it doesnt run just as you would like .. as there are so many varibles its untrue .
if your doing a 24v conversion the same information mainly applies , parts required are roughly the same , but more expensive by roughly 20/30 %

i do think im correct in saying he has long since sold the car !

pic