fredfelcher

Hi, having similar problem here - clutch only returns halfway after fast bit of driving but works OK when using lower revs. No problem with engaging clutch at all - no slip, no crunch etc. Assume it must be vacuum; I have a Schrick but no charger. Also noticed it's taking a bit longer to start in the mornings recently. Any help appreciated

Oh right, sorry for the duff info.

Most of the readers can't clear the codes, you need to get to VAG-COM or similar. You can't just remove the bulb - it'll fail its next MOT if the light doesn't come on then go out.

There's a decent article on overhauling it here: http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/VR6_belt_tensioner_pulley_repair I just changed the grease on mine and it made it silent!

You can check it by jumpering the coolant temp sensor (yellow switch in thermostat housing, in front of coil pack high up on engine block). 1 Switch ignition on briefly then off 2 Unplug switch and jumper terminals 1 and 3 3 Fans and pump should run. Terminals: with retaining clip uppermost, looking at terminals, 1 is upper right (brown/red wire at back) and 3 is bottom left (brown wire). Hope this helps - tried to do diagram but stupid forum formatting kept messing it up.

Not an expert, but it sounds more like a wiring or plug fault to me. It's unlikely that the new sensor would be faulty (although not impossible) - especially if it's from Bosch. You can't really get a good reading from the sensor with a voltmeter; it switches between about 0.1V and 1V a number of times a second - so even a digital voltmeter will tend to just show an average. You really do need an oscilloscope to check it - sorry! Perhaps you could check the wiring between battery earth and the connectors in the plug and see if you can find where the power gets lost - maybe the wiring has crack

Can't give you any 'dyno' proof but CAN say it really makes a difference. Car pulls so much better all the way through the rev range that I don't need to drop gears to overtake anything like as much - unless I'm proving a point Fuel economy is much better too. All this is without a remap or cams too - would no doubt be even more impressive with those. I got mine off eBay for £900 nearly new, which I'm happy with now I know how much difference it makes. They're £1300 new from Stealth plus fitting (I did mine myself), so that might make a difference to how worthwhile it is to you. They do com

That copper wire is a 'flame trap' apparently to stop the oil/petrol fumes from igniting and blowing up your intake hose! Mine looks like a slightly larger 'Brillo' pad.

Reasonably straightforward, just needs some care and a 6mm Allen key. Clamp the 2 coolant hoses running to the top (to minimize coolant loss) then undo the clips on them with pliers if they're the original spring type (squeeze the ends towards each other and keep squeezed while you move the hose). My hoses were a little 'sticky' but came away intact with a bit of twisting. Next undo the jubilee-type clip on the intake boot and pull it away (the big rubber boot from the air cleaner). Unplug the multiplug for the throttle plate position sensor (most manuals say to disconnect battery negative too

Nice deal on one here: , http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8001845100&rd=1&rd=1 but doesn't seem to include an ECU or anything to do with lubrication (sump, pipes, etc) so looks like a fair bit of additional work needed. After all that's added on, don't know if it works out very much cheaper than a C2!