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  1. Like
    VR6Pete got a reaction from VR6Midas for a record, Detailers Guide   
    Valeting & Detailing Planner For Your Ride
    Wash Weekly
    Intensive Detailing: Shuts/Jambs, under-engine area, name badges, etc. Monthly
    Paint: Pre-wax cleaner/polish Bi-annual
    Paint: Sealer/glaze Every 8-12 weeks
    Paint: Wax Every 8-12 weeks
    Trim Weekly
    Apply correct protector clean cracks Monthly
    Wheels Every Other week
    Bead to hub, polish wheels Every 2-3 months
    Wheel Arches Every Week
    Tyres Monthly
    Full dress, scrub bead to tread Monthly
    Glass: Clean Weekly
    Polish, clean along seals Monthly
    Interior: Vacuum Weekly
    Clean stains, vacuum full interior and boot areas. Monthly
    Leather: Condition & Protection Monthly
    Thoroughly deep clean leather interior & recondition & Protect Every 3 months
    We have decided to Break the detail process down into specific steps, we recommend doing them in the following order.
    1.Brush, vacuum and clean the interior
    2. Clean wheels and tyres
    3. Wash exterior of vehicle and door shut areas
    4. Apply tyre dressing
    5. Polish the wheels
    6. Clean and treat exterior trim
    7. Polish and then wax paint finish
    8. Clean & Polish All Glass
    You’ll probably find that by following these steps in this order it saves time & you dont have to redo any areas of your vehicle.
    We can offer you free demonstrations at car shows if you bring your vehicle along for the day to place on our stand.
    We can arrange for regular work to be carried on your pride and joy to concours standards, by some of the countries finest detailers.
    Wax Tailor also have regular open days at our factory / offices for all types of car care tips and advice, why not find out when the next one is on and book in your vehicle all work done on the day is free along with free drinks and food.
  2. Like
    VR6Pete got a reaction from RBPE for a record, Golf R32 (Mk4) Technical Information   
    Bodywork Body type 4/5 seater hatchback Number of doors 3 Designer     Dimensions & Weights   mm inches   Wheelbase 2518 99.1   Track/tread (front) 1513 59.6   Track/tread (rear) 1487 58.5   Length 4149 163.3   Width 1735 68.3   Height 1444 56.9   Ground clearance       length:wheelbase ratio 1.65 Kerb weight 1552 kg 3422 lb   Weight distribution   Fuel tank capacity 62 litres 13.6 UK Gal 16.4 US Gal   Aerodynamics Drag coefficient   Frontal area   CdA     Engine engine type naturally aspirated petrol Engine manufacturer Volkswagen Engine code   Cylinders V 6 in 15° vee Capacity 3.2 litre 3189 cc (194.605 cu in) Bore×Stroke 84 × 95.9 mm 3.31 × 3.78 in Bore/stroke ratio 0.88 Valve gear DOHC 4 valves per cylinder 24 Total valves maximum power output 240.3 PS (237 bhp) (176.7 kW) at 6250 rpm Specific output 74.3 bhp/litre 1.22 bhp/cu in maximum torque 320 Nm (236 ft·lb) (32.6 kgm) at 2800 rpm Specific torque 100.34 Nm/litre 1.21 ft·lb/cu3 Engine construction cast iron block; aluminium head sump wet sumped compression ratio 11.3:1 Fuel system EFi bmep (brake mean effective pressure) 1261 kPa (182.9 psi) Maximum RPM   crankshaft bearings 7 Engine coolant Water Unitary capacity 531.5 cc Aspiration Normal Compressor N/A Intercooler None Catalytic converter Y   Performance Acceleration 0-80km/h (50mph) 4.60 s Acceleration 0-60mph 6.50 s Acceleration 0-100km/h 6.60 s Acceleration 0-160km/h (100mph) 15.60 s     Standing quarter-mile 14.70 s @ 97.00 mph Standing kilometre 27.40 s @ 190.00 km/h Maximum speed 247 km/h (153 mph) Power-to-weight ratio 152.71 bhp/ton   Fuel Consumption Fuel consumption 16.4/8.6/11.5 l/100km urban/extra-urban/combined Carbon dioxide emissions 276 g/km Carfolio Calculated CO2 ? 276.00 g/km   Chassis Engine position front Engine layout transverse Drive wheels all wheel drive   Torque split   Steering rack & pinion PAS turns lock-to-lock   Turning circle   Front suspension I.MS.CS.ARB. Rear suspension I.DW.TA.CS.ARB. Wheel size front 7½J x 18 Wheel size rear 7½J x 18 Tyres front 225/40 ZR 18 Tyres rear 225/40 ZR 18 Brakes F/R VeDi/Di-S-ABS Front brake diameter 334 mm Rear brake diameter 256 mm     Gearbox 6 speed manual Top gear ratio 0.72 Final drive ratio 4.24   General Carfolio.com ID 101596 Production total   Model code   Model family   RAC rating 26.2 Insurance classification No information available Tax band No information available
  3. Like
    VR6Pete got a reaction from Ant for a record, VR6 Buyers Guide   
    Thinking of Buying a VR6? then look no further than the VR6 Owners Club comprehensive buyers guide that covers  most VR6 variants!
    The VR6 is now an aging beast, and if looked after will provide you with a lot of fun and many miles on the road! Like any car they have their "weak spots" and faults (lets not forget the infamous Corrado sunroof!).
    Read the following guide, print it out and take it with you when viewing any car!
    Remember the basics
    Make sure the engine is 'cold' when you go to see the car, if it’s warm there is probably something the seller wants to hide – The VR6 engine tends to go quieter once up to temperature which could mask a worn bores / piston rings. Look for signs of accident damage - body panels not lining up, difference in body work panel colors. Make sure the engine is cold and start it. There should be no smoke (although steam is ok until the engine is warm) from the exhaust (blue smoke = worn oil seals / guides, white = leaking water seals), you do get some soot build up around the exhaust over time but not much. It'll rattle until it warms up. Check for any water / oil around oil cooler, drivers side of the head. Check condition of coolant system (Thermostat housing, ensure heaters blow warm and that heater core / matrix has not been bypassed, general condition of hoses, seals around sensors, Water pump and Auxiliary / electric water pump) Listen to the sound of the Timing Chains - A distractive noise can be heard between 1,000 RPM - 2,000RPM if the chains are worn / stretched - can be costly repair ! (Or follow our guide if you are a club member and competent with a spanner!).
    Body & External
    Check for accident damage around inner wings and the boot floor, including seams.
    The rear panel (above the spare wheel as you look in the boot) has a VAG sticker which gives all model information, if this has gone, the car may have had rear end damage and been rebuilt/resprayed.
    Rusty creases in the inner part of the front wings may mean the car has had some front end damage/repair.
    Above rear bumper - check that the two vertical 'seams' at each side of the rear panel are perfect, straight and even, with no bubbling/rust coming through (possible evidence of poor rear end damage repair).
    Also look for rust on the chassis and under the bonnet and door sills and check the valance under/behind the front bumper/lower spoiler for rust.
    Check body for:
     Scratches Dents Rust
      Common places for rust are:
    Bottom edge of the rear window Where the front wings meet the sills Bottom edge of the door apertures, where the two ends of the rubber seal meet (especially on 3-door models) Leading edge of the bonnet, caused by unrepaired stone chips. Misaligned panels (inc doors, bonnet, boot) Stone chips on the bonnet are quite common. Although this can just be an indication of motorway driving. Lights for cracks including spots. Chassis plates - check the VIN plate on the cross member at the back of the engine bay matches the log book and the sticker inside the boot.
    Look out for ripped/worn/saggy seat bolsters Sunroof – does it tilt and slide. Check for damp carpets in the footwells – could be due to heater matrix or could need new inner door membranes. Check that the ventilation control panel functions completely. The fan should work in all four positions and the "direction" dial should also work. If the car has heated seats, check that they work. The seat base and the backrest should both heat up. Listen for the click from the under-seat relays as you turn on the heated seats. If the relays click, but the seats don't heat up, you're looking at a heater element failure. These are common and the elements are difficult to replace without damaging the seats.
    Wheels & tyres
    Kerbed alloys Worn tyres (especially uneven wear) Missing centre caps Signs that the wheels are fouling the arches Check the condition of the spare wheel, and more importantly, that it has one! Also check that the jack, wheel-brace, spanner and screwdriver are present All VR6's have 5-stud hubs.
    • Listen for any knocking sounds from the suspension and check to see if there is any leakage from the dampers.
    • Under rear wheel arches - look at shock absorber top spring plate, check for corrosion and ensure there is a gap between the plate the top of the strut spring sits in, and bodywork.
    • A decent set of coilovers be a plus point because if you intend to add them yourself, you will need to budget approx £500 for an average (price-wise) setup.
    Check handbrake. Lots of ‘clicks' to engage? Condition of disks. Warped disks (brake judder). ABS – There should be an orange ABS light in the dash to the right of the driver. (It has been known for cars with faulty ABS for the warning light to just be removed!!
    If the light is permanently on, it could mean:
    • ABS sensors might need cleaning
    • ABS sensors might need replacing
    • Brake fluid level is low
    • ABS control unit might need replacing
    • Brake pedal sensor might need replacing
    In general, if the light is on and it isn't one of the top 3 faults above, it could be an expensive thing to fix.
    • Check for seized rear brake callipers as this is a common fault (although easily rectified)
    The important thing with any engine is regular oil changes with decent oil.
    Also Check:
    Oil cap (mayo) Water (mayo) Check oil level & colour Engine noise (tappets and knocking) Smoke from exhaust Oil leaks – after a drive, check for any signs of oil leaks. Listen out for noisy fuel pumps
      Listen for any noise from the timing chain. Slight noise (rattle) can be acceptable.
    The guides and tensioner could need replacing once mileage approaches 100k+. £200 for parts alone and it's quite labour intensive as it can be worth doing the clutch whilst you're at it.
    Puffs of blue smoke on start-up (especially from cold) and over run. It could mean it has bore wear (time for a new block!), but it does mean you need the rings checking out. The crankcase breather pipe is weak and often cracks, resulting in slight oil spillage onto the exhaust manifold (causing burning oil smell inside the car). The crankcase breather pipe comes off of the plastic inlet tract between the airbox and throttle and goes into the cam cover. This is a cheap £20-£30 fix though. Check that the larger bottom pully on the water pump runs true if it has a wobble this means your water pump is on the way out, you will be looking at about £250 to replace.
    As with any car, check for any signs of the exhaust knocking/rubbing against the underside of the car or listen for any signs of the exhaust blowing (hole in the exhaust) The standard exhaust is heavy and runs close to the rear axle and so a knocking from the rear on dips/bumps might be fixed with new rubbers.
    Heater – does it function on all settings? Heated windows Electric windows Electric Mirrors Ensure central locking works, ensure Full Closure alarm works with key as well as alarm fob. Does the stereo automatically switch on and off with the ignition MFA computer (check mileage), and that all functions work: Time, Miles travelled, Time elapsed, Average speed, Average MPG, Oil temp, Outside Temp Also check that the MFA is not flashing or that it doesn't rest itself once the ignition is turned off. Both are signs of clocking.
    Make sure:
    Doesn't pull to the side when driving or breaking. Any knocking, droning, clunking or any other noises queaks from belts such as power steering belt Make sure coolant temp needle gets to 70 degrees quickly and doesn't pass vertical.
      Check documentation
    Log book (No. of owners) Service receipts Dealer stamps in service book Check that the History corresponds with/backs up the mileage
      The UK Golf ‘Highline’ model
    Check the Log book, it will state if it is a highline. Highlines only came in Purple Violet Pearl aka ‘Mulberry' or Black. Black pillar trim. Different VR6 badges. Wooden gear knob. The Highline has 6-spoke alloys as standard.
      Corrado VR6
    Check for a rust on the rear hatch around the rear windshield and the bottom area of the doors.
    The rear spoiler should extend/retract around 55mph.
    Check the state of the roof gators. If they're perished it might cost you a few more £ then you expect.
    Look for broken/worn out seat bolsters (especially the driver's side).
    Check if you get a first aid kit inside the armrest of the back seat and the emergency triangle hide between back seats. 
    When checking electrical windows don't be surprise when you try to operate both of them in the same time and they don't work. It's not an electrical fault - windows have been set up this way by the factory - you can use just one of them.
    Some later vr6s need a bit longer moment to start and it's ok. As far as the engine idle ok and sounds sweet on revs it's nothing you should worry about.
    The badly maintained cars often get cracked chain guides. So listen to any rattling when you start up on the cold engine
     The most common electrical issues:
    Inoperable radiator fan Sunroof doesn’t work Rear wing doesn't extend Automatic seatbelts don’t work Flickering headlamps Wipers don’t work (all rado's get a problem with a standard set of wipers and lots of people upgraded them for a lupo's set). The wiper arms don’t have enough tension against the windshield and when you try to use them, they’ll just smear the water all over. There are available a few fixes online showing how to trim down the spring inside the arm to apply more tension. The UK Corrado 'Storm' model
    Only from April 1995 onwards. Some were registered later than N-reg, however. Only Classic Green with beige leather or Mystic Blue with black leather 250 of each colour The log book will not identify the car as a Storm Colour coded grille BBS Solitudes 'Storm' badge on gear-lever surround and rear panel  
  4. Like
    VR6Pete got a reaction from lanrce for a record, Volkswagen GOLF VR6 (1992 - 1998)   

    Download Golf VR6 Highline Brochure
    Back in the late 1980s, Volkswagen spotted a market niche. Buyers were starting to move away from Golf GTis and into more expensive sports saloons, like the BMW 3 Series. The draw of a smooth and powerful six-cylinder engine was proving very tempting for many. The six-cylinder Golf VR6 appeared in 1992, and was an instant success. At a stroke, it won back old customers and lifted the Golf upmarket. A new benchmark for high performance hatchbacks had been established.
    Models Covered: 3 & 5dr hatchback 2.8 V6[VR6, VR6 Highline]
    VW Golf VR6 (1992-1998) Country Germany Top Speed (mph) 138 0-60 mph 7.1 0-100 mph 18.7 1/4 mile 15.7 0-1 km 28 BHP 174 @5800rpm Torque lbft 173 @4200rpm BHP per ton 150 MPG UK/US 28/23 Engine capacity CC/CU 2792/170 Engine type V6 Fuel Injection Aspiration Normal Compression Ratio 10.0:1 Valve Type/No SOHC 12 Transmission (manual/auto) Manual No of speeds 5 Wheels driven FWD Brakes F/R Disc/Disc No. of Seats 4/5 Length (in) 158.3 Width (in) 67.2 Height (in) 55.3 Kerb Weight (lbs) 2550 History
    Right hand drive VR6s arrived in the UK in March 1992. Both three and five-door hatchbacks use the same 2.8-litre V6 engine. The engine's design was unusual in that the angle of the 'V' is extremely narrow. This allowed it to fit under the Golf's bonnet, in place of the four-cylinder motors used across the rest of the range. Modifications to the trim specification followed six months after launch - both the steering column and front seats became height adjustable in September 1992. This was the first of what would prove to be many changes to the car. Stories of poor reliability of some components began to surface and Volkswagen acted several times to correct the suspect parts in 1993 and 1994. Automatic transmission arrived as an option in February 1993. Later that year, Volkswagen anticipated new European safety laws by fitting twin airbags as standard. Apart from the addition of an engine immobiliser in November 1994, the car remained much the same, though a leather and air conditioning-equipped 'Highline' version was added to the range in 1995. When the new MKIV Golf was launched in the UK in Spring 1998, there was no VR6 version (though there was an unusual 2.3-litre V5; the V6 with one cylinder lopped off). The V6 wasn't to follow until mid 2000 with 4-Motion 4WD as standard.
    What You Get
    With the demise of Volkswagen's former performance leader, the Corrado, many new Volkswagen buyers now turn to used versions of the six-cylinder Golf. It offers storming performance in a compact package. New, the VR6 was always well equipped and so most older cars also offer quite a good standard spec. Expect to find power steering, anti-lock brakes, alloy wheels and traction control. Many cars have the optional Highline leather trim and air-conditioning. The latter tended to be popular, as heat-soak from the engine was observed in many road tests - the result of a big engine in a relatively small car.
    What You Pay
    Refer to Car & Driving for an exact up-to-date valuation section. Click here and we will email it to you.
    What to Look For
    Volkswagens, generally, have a name for reliability and excellent build quality. The Golf is no exception, though it's always best to have any high-performance car thoroughly checked for accident damage and telltale signs of an over-enthusiastic former driver. Unevenly worn tyres, graunchy synchromesh on second gear and worn-out shock absorbers are all evidence of abuse. Engines are fairly unburstable, but do check for oil, coolant and power steering fluid leaks. Inside Highline models, check the leather upholstery for excessive wear and damage and ensure the air conditioner delivers chilled air immediately after starting the engine - both items are expensive to repair. A full service history is highly desirable, especially one from a Volkswagen main dealer. It may be a Volkswagen Golf but it's certainly a more complicated car than its smaller siblings. Parts are readily available from Volkswagen dealers and not overly expensive, when you consider the almost-supercar performance of the VR6.
    Replacement Parts
    (Approx) For a new clutch, expect to pay around £55. A catalytic converter will set you back £450, while the exhaust system itself is £220. An alternator is about £500, a headlight £65 and front brake pads £60.
    On the Road
    This is the area where a VR6 will really make you smile. Though some journalists gave the car a bad press for alleged under-damping and soft springing, many owners preferred this set-up to that of the firmer-riding Golf GTi. The VR6 is one of those rare cars that is equally comfortable on a winding B road, in traffic or else sitting at a constant 70mph on the motorway.
    Near-supercar performance wrapped in a sensible Volkswagen package. A lot of car with a lot of speed for not a lot of money.
    Download Golf VR6 Highline Brochure