Valeting & Detailing Planner For Your Ride
Intensive Detailing: Shuts/Jambs, under-engine area, name badges, etc.
Paint: Pre-wax cleaner/polish
Every 8-12 weeks
Every 8-12 weeks
Apply correct protector clean cracks
Every Other week
Bead to hub, polish wheels
Every 2-3 months
Full dress, scrub bead to tread
Polish, clean along seals
Clean stains, vacuum full interior and boot areas.
Leather: Condition & Protection
Thoroughly deep clean leather interior & recondition & Protect
Every 3 months
We have decided to Break the detail process down into specific steps, we recommend doing them in the following order.
1.Brush, vacuum and clean the interior 2. Clean wheels and tyres 3. Wash exterior of vehicle and door shut areas 4. Apply tyre dressing 5. Polish the wheels 6. Clean and treat exterior trim 7. Polish and then wax paint finish 8. Clean & Polish All Glass
You’ll probably find that by following these steps in this order it saves time & you dont have to redo any areas of your vehicle.
We can offer you free demonstrations at car shows if you bring your vehicle along for the day to place on our stand.
We can arrange for regular work to be carried on your pride and joy to concours standards, by some of the countries finest detailers.
Wax Tailor also have regular open days at our factory / offices for all types of car care tips and advice, why not find out when the next one is on and book in your vehicle all work done on the day is free along with free drinks and food.
4/5 seater hatchback
Number of doors
Dimensions & Weights
Fuel tank capacity
13.6 UK Gal
16.4 US Gal
naturally aspirated petrol
V 6 in 15° vee
3.2 litre 3189 cc (194.605 cu in)
84 × 95.9 mm 3.31 × 3.78 in
DOHC 4 valves per cylinder 24 Total valves
maximum power output
240.3 PS (237 bhp) (176.7 kW) at 6250 rpm
74.3 bhp/litre 1.22 bhp/cu in
320 Nm (236 ft·lb) (32.6 kgm) at 2800 rpm
100.34 Nm/litre 1.21 ft·lb/cu3
cast iron block; aluminium head
bmep (brake mean effective pressure)
1261 kPa (182.9 psi)
Acceleration 0-80km/h (50mph)
Acceleration 0-160km/h (100mph)
14.70 s @ 97.00 mph
27.40 s @ 190.00 km/h
247 km/h (153 mph)
16.4/8.6/11.5 l/100km urban/extra-urban/combined
Carbon dioxide emissions
Carfolio Calculated CO2 ?
all wheel drive
rack & pinion PAS
Wheel size front
7½J x 18
Wheel size rear
7½J x 18
225/40 ZR 18
225/40 ZR 18
Front brake diameter
Rear brake diameter
6 speed manual
Top gear ratio
Final drive ratio
No information available
No information available
Thinking of Buying a VR6? then look no further than the VR6 Owners Club comprehensive buyers guide that covers most VR6 variants!
The VR6 is now an aging beast, and if looked after will provide you with a lot of fun and many miles on the road! Like any car they have their "weak spots" and faults (lets not forget the infamous Corrado sunroof!).
Read the following guide, print it out and take it with you when viewing any car!
Remember the basics
Make sure the engine is 'cold' when you go to see the car, if it’s warm there is probably something the seller wants to hide – The VR6 engine tends to go quieter once up to temperature which could mask a worn bores / piston rings.
Look for signs of accident damage - body panels not lining up, difference in body work panel colors.
Make sure the engine is cold and start it. There should be no smoke (although steam is ok until the engine is warm) from the exhaust (blue smoke = worn oil seals / guides, white = leaking water seals), you do get some soot build up around the exhaust over time but not much. It'll rattle until it warms up.
Check for any water / oil around oil cooler, drivers side of the head.
Check condition of coolant system (Thermostat housing, ensure heaters blow warm and that heater core / matrix has not been bypassed, general condition of hoses, seals around sensors, Water pump and Auxiliary / electric water pump)
Listen to the sound of the Timing Chains - A distractive noise can be heard between 1,000 RPM - 2,000RPM if the chains are worn / stretched - can be costly repair ! (Or follow our guide if you are a club member and competent with a spanner!).
Body & External
Check for accident damage around inner wings and the boot floor, including seams.
The rear panel (above the spare wheel as you look in the boot) has a VAG sticker which gives all model information, if this has gone, the car may have had rear end damage and been rebuilt/resprayed.
Rusty creases in the inner part of the front wings may mean the car has had some front end damage/repair.
Above rear bumper - check that the two vertical 'seams' at each side of the rear panel are perfect, straight and even, with no bubbling/rust coming through (possible evidence of poor rear end damage repair).
Also look for rust on the chassis and under the bonnet and door sills and check the valance under/behind the front bumper/lower spoiler for rust.
Check body for:
Common places for rust are:
Bottom edge of the rear window
Where the front wings meet the sills
Bottom edge of the door apertures, where the two ends of the rubber seal meet (especially on 3-door models)
Leading edge of the bonnet, caused by unrepaired stone chips.
Misaligned panels (inc doors, bonnet, boot)
Stone chips on the bonnet are quite common. Although this can just be an indication of motorway driving.
Lights for cracks including spots.
Chassis plates - check the VIN plate on the cross member at the back of the engine bay matches the log book and the sticker inside the boot.
Look out for ripped/worn/saggy seat bolsters
Sunroof – does it tilt and slide.
Check for damp carpets in the footwells – could be due to heater matrix or could need new inner door membranes.
Check that the ventilation control panel functions completely. The fan should work in all four positions and the "direction" dial should also work.
If the car has heated seats, check that they work. The seat base and the backrest should both heat up. Listen for the click from the under-seat relays as you turn on the heated seats. If the relays click, but the seats don't heat up, you're looking at a heater element failure. These are common and the elements are difficult to replace without damaging the seats.
Wheels & tyres
Worn tyres (especially uneven wear)
Missing centre caps
Signs that the wheels are fouling the arches
Check the condition of the spare wheel, and more importantly, that it has one!
Also check that the jack, wheel-brace, spanner and screwdriver are present
All VR6's have 5-stud hubs.
• Listen for any knocking sounds from the suspension and check to see if there is any leakage from the dampers.
• Under rear wheel arches - look at shock absorber top spring plate, check for corrosion and ensure there is a gap between the plate the top of the strut spring sits in, and bodywork.
• A decent set of coilovers be a plus point because if you intend to add them yourself, you will need to budget approx £500 for an average (price-wise) setup.
Check handbrake. Lots of ‘clicks' to engage?
Condition of disks.
Warped disks (brake judder).
ABS – There should be an orange ABS light in the dash to the right of the driver.
(It has been known for cars with faulty ABS for the warning light to just be removed!!
If the light is permanently on, it could mean:
• ABS sensors might need cleaning
• ABS sensors might need replacing
• Brake fluid level is low
• ABS control unit might need replacing
• Brake pedal sensor might need replacing
In general, if the light is on and it isn't one of the top 3 faults above, it could be an expensive thing to fix.
• Check for seized rear brake callipers as this is a common fault (although easily rectified)
The important thing with any engine is regular oil changes with decent oil.
Oil cap (mayo)
Check oil level & colour
Engine noise (tappets and knocking)
Smoke from exhaust
Oil leaks – after a drive, check for any signs of oil leaks.
Listen out for noisy fuel pumps
Listen for any noise from the timing chain. Slight noise (rattle) can be acceptable.
The guides and tensioner could need replacing once mileage approaches 100k+. £200 for parts alone and it's quite labour intensive as it can be worth doing the clutch whilst you're at it.
Puffs of blue smoke on start-up (especially from cold) and over run. It could mean it has bore wear (time for a new block!), but it does mean you need the rings checking out.
The crankcase breather pipe is weak and often cracks, resulting in slight oil spillage onto the exhaust manifold (causing burning oil smell inside the car). The crankcase breather pipe comes off of the plastic inlet tract between the airbox and throttle and goes into the cam cover. This is a cheap £20-£30 fix though.
Check that the larger bottom pully on the water pump runs true if it has a wobble this means your water pump is on the way out, you will be looking at about £250 to replace.
As with any car, check for any signs of the exhaust knocking/rubbing against the underside of the car or listen for any signs of the exhaust blowing (hole in the exhaust)
The standard exhaust is heavy and runs close to the rear axle and so a knocking from the rear on dips/bumps might be fixed with new rubbers.
Heater – does it function on all settings?
Ensure central locking works, ensure Full Closure alarm works with key as well as alarm fob.
Does the stereo automatically switch on and off with the ignition
MFA computer (check mileage), and that all functions work:
Time, Miles travelled, Time elapsed, Average speed, Average MPG, Oil temp, Outside Temp
Also check that the MFA is not flashing or that it doesn't rest itself once the ignition is turned off. Both are signs of clocking.
Doesn't pull to the side when driving or breaking.
Any knocking, droning, clunking or any other noises
queaks from belts such as power steering belt
Make sure coolant temp needle gets to 70 degrees quickly and doesn't pass vertical.
Log book (No. of owners)
Dealer stamps in service book
Check that the History corresponds with/backs up the mileage
The UK Golf ‘Highline’ model
Check the Log book, it will state if it is a highline.
Highlines only came in Purple Violet Pearl aka ‘Mulberry' or Black.
Black pillar trim.
Different VR6 badges.
Wooden gear knob.
The Highline has 6-spoke alloys as standard.
Check for a rust on the rear hatch around the rear windshield and the bottom area of the doors.
The rear spoiler should extend/retract around 55mph.
Check the state of the roof gators. If they're perished it might cost you a few more £ then you expect.
Look for broken/worn out seat bolsters (especially the driver's side).
Check if you get a first aid kit inside the armrest of the back seat and the emergency triangle hide between back seats.
When checking electrical windows don't be surprise when you try to operate both of them in the same time and they don't work. It's not an electrical fault - windows have been set up this way by the factory - you can use just one of them.
Some later vr6s need a bit longer moment to start and it's ok. As far as the engine idle ok and sounds sweet on revs it's nothing you should worry about.
The badly maintained cars often get cracked chain guides. So listen to any rattling when you start up on the cold engine
The most common electrical issues:
Inoperable radiator fan
Sunroof doesn’t work
Rear wing doesn't extend
Automatic seatbelts don’t work
Wipers don’t work (all rado's get a problem with a standard set of wipers and lots of people upgraded them for a lupo's set). The wiper arms don’t have enough tension against the windshield and when you try to use them, they’ll just smear the water all over. There are available a few fixes online showing how to trim down the spring inside the arm to apply more tension.
The UK Corrado 'Storm' model
Only from April 1995 onwards. Some were registered later than N-reg, however.
Only Classic Green with beige leather or Mystic Blue with black leather
250 of each colour
The log book will not identify the car as a Storm
Colour coded grille
'Storm' badge on gear-lever surround and rear panel
Download Golf VR6 Highline Brochure
Back in the late 1980s, Volkswagen spotted a market niche. Buyers were starting to move away from Golf GTis and into more expensive sports saloons, like the BMW 3 Series. The draw of a smooth and powerful six-cylinder engine was proving very tempting for many. The six-cylinder Golf VR6 appeared in 1992, and was an instant success. At a stroke, it won back old customers and lifted the Golf upmarket. A new benchmark for high performance hatchbacks had been established.
Models Covered: 3 & 5dr hatchback 2.8 V6[VR6, VR6 Highline]
VW Golf VR6 (1992-1998)
Top Speed (mph)
BHP per ton
Engine capacity CC/CU
V6 Fuel Injection
No of speeds
No. of Seats
Kerb Weight (lbs)
Right hand drive VR6s arrived in the UK in March 1992. Both three and five-door hatchbacks use the same 2.8-litre V6 engine. The engine's design was unusual in that the angle of the 'V' is extremely narrow. This allowed it to fit under the Golf's bonnet, in place of the four-cylinder motors used across the rest of the range. Modifications to the trim specification followed six months after launch - both the steering column and front seats became height adjustable in September 1992. This was the first of what would prove to be many changes to the car. Stories of poor reliability of some components began to surface and Volkswagen acted several times to correct the suspect parts in 1993 and 1994. Automatic transmission arrived as an option in February 1993. Later that year, Volkswagen anticipated new European safety laws by fitting twin airbags as standard. Apart from the addition of an engine immobiliser in November 1994, the car remained much the same, though a leather and air conditioning-equipped 'Highline' version was added to the range in 1995. When the new MKIV Golf was launched in the UK in Spring 1998, there was no VR6 version (though there was an unusual 2.3-litre V5; the V6 with one cylinder lopped off). The V6 wasn't to follow until mid 2000 with 4-Motion 4WD as standard.
What You Get
With the demise of Volkswagen's former performance leader, the Corrado, many new Volkswagen buyers now turn to used versions of the six-cylinder Golf. It offers storming performance in a compact package. New, the VR6 was always well equipped and so most older cars also offer quite a good standard spec. Expect to find power steering, anti-lock brakes, alloy wheels and traction control. Many cars have the optional Highline leather trim and air-conditioning. The latter tended to be popular, as heat-soak from the engine was observed in many road tests - the result of a big engine in a relatively small car.
What You Pay
Refer to Car & Driving for an exact up-to-date valuation section. Click here and we will email it to you.
What to Look For
Volkswagens, generally, have a name for reliability and excellent build quality. The Golf is no exception, though it's always best to have any high-performance car thoroughly checked for accident damage and telltale signs of an over-enthusiastic former driver. Unevenly worn tyres, graunchy synchromesh on second gear and worn-out shock absorbers are all evidence of abuse. Engines are fairly unburstable, but do check for oil, coolant and power steering fluid leaks. Inside Highline models, check the leather upholstery for excessive wear and damage and ensure the air conditioner delivers chilled air immediately after starting the engine - both items are expensive to repair. A full service history is highly desirable, especially one from a Volkswagen main dealer. It may be a Volkswagen Golf but it's certainly a more complicated car than its smaller siblings. Parts are readily available from Volkswagen dealers and not overly expensive, when you consider the almost-supercar performance of the VR6.
(Approx) For a new clutch, expect to pay around £55. A catalytic converter will set you back £450, while the exhaust system itself is £220. An alternator is about £500, a headlight £65 and front brake pads £60.
On the Road
This is the area where a VR6 will really make you smile. Though some journalists gave the car a bad press for alleged under-damping and soft springing, many owners preferred this set-up to that of the firmer-riding Golf GTi. The VR6 is one of those rare cars that is equally comfortable on a winding B road, in traffic or else sitting at a constant 70mph on the motorway.
Near-supercar performance wrapped in a sensible Volkswagen package. A lot of car with a lot of speed for not a lot of money.
Download Golf VR6 Highline Brochure