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mk4 golf v6 turbo conversion parts

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hi im Rich, im a bit new to this so hi everyone


Im after some help i want to do a turbo conversion on my mk4 golf 2.8 v6 4 motion but struggling to find part suppliers for this conversion

I can get a kit from france but its mainly for left hand drive golfs i know it can be done but a bit more messing about as far as i can make out

does anyone know if there are any suppliers in the uk for this conversion please 

Edited by Smithyvr6
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Most turbo re-seller files tuners have access too are for the R32's, you could build a similar one for late BDE/BDF type models or early AUE based ones may need some tweaks due to variances, plus there's a few ways you can map these vehicles - depending on what they can do on that front, that's probably more your limiting factor more than anything in using a pro for a full conversion and will also dictate the fuelling set up you choose plus some of the other parts used on such conversions.


Apart from that it's often easier and cheaper to just source parts yourself - you'll need either a specialist or your local fabricator to make you up a downpipe to your exhaust, everything else is just parts sourcing and fitting.

Engine cost can vary from stock through to spending a fortune, I've mentioned how you can save money and get it refreshed with upgraded parts which you could do with a local engine builder in another thread, saving  a few quid, but doing a bit yourself and so on.


Apart from that, you'll often have to speak to VAG pro's themselves to see what they recommend, what they use and all the variances that can go with it as they will have their own little way of doing things. 

Technically you could make your own with what's on the net if you look into it - far from easy, but it's possible and the obvious "how much are you willing to spend and how much are you willing to do yourself?" - some of the more "2.8 specific" parts can add up to more than R32, for example this would evidently be a bit more than a 400 euro 2.8/R32 specific ebay inlet manifold you find;



Edited by RBPE
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Thank you for your detailed reply i will start sourcing parts I run a garage myself so will do all mechanical work myself so saving there I've had a chat with our local engine tuner about maps he seems confidant also talked to storm developments in reading about a stand alone Ecu for £2000 ish which seems very reasonable so it depends how we get on thanks again

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A nice set up for a decent outlay would be;


Holset HX35, usually internal gated on a twin scroll them so many weld it shut and look at a 38 or 44mm external gate like Turbosmart or Tial, or a Garrett GT(X/R) or EFR - this all depends on what you want to spend as a major outlay to the conversion for turbo/wastegate,

Recirc valve - Turbosmart Kompact are good value and you can get them at 32mm or so which is higher flowing than a 25mm 710N or the like, or a 50mm one is usually used for flow,

Exhaust manifold you may have to see on the tune really, can have the 02 bosses welded into the manifold so the tune should follow that, or you can add custom code and a single lambda in the downpipe which will be better for readings - so either cast, full tubular or a tubular off the stock twin exh mani's are your options there, big variance and with your tune;

Downpipe - have someone fab it up or DIY usually best;

FMIC - Better cooling the charge air whilst you fit a kit at the start imo, expensive kits or a bit of hacking with your ebay spesh there;

The stock variable resonance manifold is the best design, but limiting factors are the turbo being added at the exhaust manifold and excess heat at the inlet or just fitment of turbo on the manifold alone with stock inlet mani, plus it is plastic too and can be prone to popping under boost, although some have run them at 20psi with no probs but budget that most likely,


That'll basically get you the turbo set-up done!


Engine - some just stick a spacer on, some then add ARP head studs or rod bolts (or Raceware too are your options for the V/R's), I would always recommend a refresh of engine too, then you can add forged rods, pistons, head work - again depends on budget but a grand plus there!


Clutch will be a limiting factor over 300lb/ft or so (mild boost on these) - and you can add upgraded discs or usually a decent set up preferred would be a Sachs SRE kit with single mass flywheel, some don't like the chatter noise you get when changing from dual to single mass though but it's generally a tougher set up. Budget a little over a grand for that set up but you should be good till 450lb/ft then after that or for absolute best/road manners at high hp, you're looking at a multi-disc set up for a couple of grand or so!


Then it is the tune and fuel, so expect to upgrade the fuel pump (Walbro 255, Bosch 044, DW65V) and then the injectors to suit (Bosch best really, may need some changes to fit) - these could also be dictated by the software.


On oem management there are a few ways to do things, the fuelling is pretty straight forward in that you do it much like any other ME7, you are essentially changing the mass of the droplet of fuel, obv. being larger injectors used as the norm, plus the flight time/constants which can be due to, for example, an inlet manifold change, then you change ignition as obv. NA and FI ignition is different. There's also some massaging of the torque maps being a central torque based ecu, so that things follow certain values past, in that case, load. An NA load would only read to 100 and an FI from 160 on something like a 1.8T 180hp ecu, through to, say, 300 on an RS3. Other pro tuners actually leave these load based maps stock, contrary to many VAG tuners here's belief's, and instead use pedal angle modifications to account for rapid changes in air like adding a turbo, this in turn though leads to numerous changes for things like idle control as you are changing drivers request/pedal interpretations and is also the reason why certain owners who have used pro tuners to try and define/map their dsg are having trouble even finding the maps based on their def files.

Then you can add custom code for basic boost control and other hard coding which usually requires a lot of reverse engineering and essentially a code writer who can write it into the code on it in redundant areas, or by changing the maps/functions of some parts for drivers. Although you can't change/map things as quickly as a standalone, plus whomever writes such a file will usually have IP Rights on it as it is a lot of work meaning that a tuner may not be able to access the data, it does have the benefit of being oem based. Cost for something like that can be around standalone prices mentioned.


These variances will have an effect on what parts are used although like I say, getting the fuelling spot on on these wideband cars is fairly straight forward, it's the changes in air-flow and lack of sensors which can be the bane, such changes like pedal interpretations, are also why some turbo owners may report that their pedal feels a bit numb, it's all related to modelling for the changes.


So, to sum up - you can DIY for £1500, basic intercooled set up, no engine mods, low boost on stock clutch if you can map yourself, then you cater for engine mods and higher boost along side a clutch - £2.5-4k usual cost of a decent 400hp or so set up if you can map yourself, half of which you could spend on the turbo..... then, £10-15k for the absolute top and everything in-between!

People think that there are no options but there are plenty, you just need to pick-n-mix to what you want to achieve and can afford!



Edited by RBPE
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3 hours ago, Smithyvr6 said:

Thanks again for all your help it's really nice to find people that are happy to share quality information ?


Forget Storm mate. 

If your a Mechanic yourself then run Emerald Managment.. 

Source all your bits and speak to Richie, TWR Racing. 

Has one of the Best Built Raddo's V6 3.2 4WD. 

He does all the conversions mate and can really help you. 



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