Hutch 14 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Hi, I've had some idling problems. Until the engine was up to temp it would idle at about 1500rpm. After reading some tests I measured my 2-pin coolant sensor resistance and it was open circuit! So... fitted a new one now (new one measured 2.6kohm which seems about at today's temps). Now I think I need some codes cleared or ECU reset. When I start it now it's immediate, but idles at 1000rpm, and sometimes creeps up a bit. I don't have a fault reader or vag-com so is there another way? If it involves unhooking battery the alarm is gonna sound constantly while it's off.Any ideas? Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 May need to do a throttle body adaption, have a search around and you'll find plenty of info on it. Link to post Share on other sites
Hutch 14 Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Ok thanks. I've had a quick search but not really sure what I'm searching for so any more info appreciated. Are you saying that I might need to actually adjust the idle-speed on the throttlebody itself? I assumed this was all done by wire on 'modern' cars. It is 17 years old I suppose Link to post Share on other sites
andymk312v 15 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Obd 1 or 2? Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Just unplug your battery for a couple of hours, it will clear any codes. if you are OBD2, just leave key in auxiliary/ignition and wait for the throttle body to stop making noises. Job done Link to post Share on other sites
Hutch 14 Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 OBD2 Ok thanks I'll try and find a way to deactivate alarm and leave battery off. What did you mean about the throttle body making noises? confused Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 when your battery has been disconnected it will do a throttle body alignment when you put ignition on, if your bonnet is popped you will hear the stepper motor on the throttle body making noises as it "does stuff" once the noises have stopped you can then start the car. it takes about 10 - 20 seconds to complete. Therusterman 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Hutch 14 Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Oh great! I've just found the alarm key, switched that off, and pulled battery. Will see how it goes. Thanks Also just checked that I do have a data port, the cover was super-glued on for some reason!? Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Oh great! I've just found the alarm key, switched that off, and pulled battery. Will see how it goes. Thanks Also just checked that I do have a data port, the cover was super-glued on for some reason!? That is odd, this is the port next to the ash tray and above the fag lighter? If so this is the obd 2 diagnostic port, have you got a cable to connect it to a laptop yet? Link to post Share on other sites
Solution Hutch 14 Posted December 20, 2013 Author Solution Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Just to clear this up for anyone else wondering about errors and ECUs and coolant sensors. It turns out that my alternator failed the same day that I replaced the sensor, and the high idle seemed to be as a result of this. The alternator was replaced this afternoon and now the car idles at about 750-800 ish again, and feels good. Will get vag-com on it anyhow when I find a windows laptop or a reader turns up, but for now, problem solved! VR6Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Just to clear this up for anyone else wondering about errors and ECUs and coolant sensors. It turns out that my alternator failed the same day that I replaced the sensor, and the high idle seemed to be as a result of this. The alternator was replaced this afternoon and now the car idles at about 750-800 ish again, and feels good. Will get vag-com on it anyhow when I find a windows laptop or a reader turns up, but for now, problem solved! Good stuff mate glad to hear you got it sorted ! Club Chairman Link to post Share on other sites
Ickyketseddie 89 Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Great news. Where are you maybe your local to someone who can help? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Hutch 14 Posted December 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Thanks. I'm in Cheltenham, but have a Vgate scanner wotsit waiting for collection at the Post Office, so should be ok. Link to post Share on other sites
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