URGENT REAR BRAKE HELP....... PLEEEEEASE

[gavinvr6 0]

ok so things aint going to smoothly, firstly i couldnt find my caliper carrier allen key, so i made one. and used a socket to drive it, this promptly smoothed off the inside of the socket. so off to halfords, bought an 8mm 1/2" drive allen key. popped it on the breaker/torque wrench, STILL CANT UNDO THE CALIPER CARRIER BOLTS. have tried some wd40 thats not happening. only thing i can think of is an impact gun that i dont have or using a blow torch to try and heat the carrier and hope it dont melt the frigging brake pipe. its getting close to the point where the inside of the bolt will start to wear and round out if im not carefull.

ARRRRGGGHHHHHHH. anybody got idea's? need to have this done today as need the car to go to london. in the morning and really dont wanna drive it with shite rear brakes when i got all new sitting here

please call on 07595 00 38 00 if your in or passing through havant at any time in the next couple of hours

[legvw 0]

Hammer and a good sharp chisel might free the bolt off. Is the driver going into the shcs fully? Sometimes crap builds up in the head so will need cleaning out to allow the driver to go in an get the right grip in the head (if that makes sense!).

[gavinvr6 0]

its going in about 5mm. im tapping it home with a hammer to make sure it goes as far at poss. but will dig around inside witth a pick just to make sure its clean. have tried using a torque wrench as a lever and a 2 fot breaker but am worried the distance from the bolt to the wrench is to far and the allen will go at an angle when u put pressure on it and ruin the hole, especially with the shite extendable breaker i have.

[Daverse 175]

Get someone to hold the wrench straight so the allen key wont bend or go at an angle? is the head sticking out? if so try freeing it with some gland pliars. and use rost off instead of wd40, works loads better hope that helps, I know they can be a pain!

[gavinvr6 0]

well thats fuked it the allen key span inside the bolt head. it rotated 1/2 a flat. i had the socket level and at 90 degrees to the bolt head.

where do i go from here? ive put everything back to gether again for now. but need some options.

a. replace entire rear axle and fit new disks to that

b. try smashing the disk and cutting the bolt heads off.

c. let it fail the mot in november and burn it.

[Daverse 175]

try getting a size bigger allen key (or sometimes a flathead screwdriver) and give it a few taps with the hammer to try and get it stuck in the head. sometimes works for me, depends on how much its rounded

[gavinvr6 0]

dont have another bigger allen key, the allen key turned half a flat. and that took a hell of a lot of force for it to do that, any thing harder would of span it completely. cant even get at the bolt head with a set of locking grips. and even then there isnt enough room to get some leverage on it.

now all im left with the option of breaking the disk and cuttng the bolt heads off to remove the carrier then try and remove the bolt thread. or switching to another rear beam and fitting the new stuff to that.

so if anyone knows of a rear beam with stubs going for as close to free as possible. i may well be interested

[finny 0]

Have you got an oversized spline you can whack into the recess of the rounded bolt? has worked for some but didn't for me.

Not much access around there and the easiest thing/ only solution was to angle grind the one of the bolt heads (most accessible one) and then the actual carrier itself (for the other bolt due to lack of access). So you'll need a replacement carrier and new bolts of course if you go this route.

Been there, feel your pain!

[gavinvr6 0]

was thinking of just putting on a new rear axle with stubs, is only 6 easy access bolts to undo the axke then shock bottom bolts. then dont matter if i smash the b-jesus outa the old axle to get the carriers off

[HAMMER_VR6 0]

building a new rear axel with all new parts is quite a good idea actually. at least you will be able to build it up in your spare time and fit it to vehcile when able. i wouldn't personally remove the 6 rear beam bracket bolts. just undo the two long bolt bushes instead. you should leave the brackets in the factory position.

[legvw 0]

You need some turbo sockets.

[oldmandon 1]

I know this is after the fact, but sometime giving a stuck bolt a wrench in the tightening direction ie trying to tighten it up further actually releases the bolt as it cracks the rust seal that has formed. I don't know how or why this works better than just trying to undo them but it does. Another option you have is to drill the bolt out using a bit slightly smaller than the bolt itself, then tapping the rest out after you've drilled through. A pain in the ass but doable!!!!!

Best of luck though whatever you do, but remember that a majority of the braking effort is on the front so it should be ok for a day trip!!!!!!

[rodney 17]

you seem to have had most of the solutions... the only thing to do and keep your set up is heat or you can get a set of threads known as easy outs but that is a little extreme and there is nothing easy about them... most people will know them as a stud remover for when you sheer off a bolt...

The main thing everyone has to do here and it is worth its' weight it to pre soak for a while with a releasig agent for at least 24hours before hand to let it penetrate down the threads..

Unfortunately it is a common issue and you tend to have to dig them out...

You cant get an impact in there can you???

[gavinvr6 0]

i think i'll go replacement axle and carriers with new bolts. then build it up and swap it all in 1 go. gunna be less work than grinding, drilling and hammering the shite out of the one thats on there