*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 I forget.... have you had a chip/remap yet??? Yes mate, I got United Motorsport to map it. Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Part number for the injectors0280155759315cc/min (30lb/hr) at 3 bar. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Part number for the injectors0280155759315cc/min (30lb/hr) at 3 bar.Thanks for the confirmation. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Bumper off and confirmed MAF air flow is in the right direction.Will check all pipework today!So I have got vag.com from Calico, thanks, to do TB recalibration.I have bought new HT leads from Dubpower.I have a spare coilpack from Matt, thanks.So if this does not sort the issue, then I have no idea. I might then just break the car and call it a day with VR6's. Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Keep the faith... Can you make billing tomorrow? Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Those injectors are a dual spray for 4 valve heads. VR6 injectors are single cone. Does turning the injectors whilst running smooth it out? I can 100% guarantee it's not the cams if they were fitted and timed correctly.Last chance hotel - Put the standard chip back in and see if things improve. If not, you defintely have a major f'ck up somewhere. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hey Kev, I've not tried moving the injectors but bear in mind they are under a standard manifold now.I can confirm that Tony fitted the cams correctly and are timed correctly.If I remember correctly did you not run 263 cams in your beast? I did idlle a bit lumpy?I did take her out today and see pulls like a bloody train, best rush I have had in ages.Though I did not see the boost gauge move at all??I did check that vacuum was there of which I felt the smallest ever.Will TB adaption help? Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 I can confirm that Tony fitted the cams correctly and are timed correctly.Was the car driven with these fitted before the 'charger was fitted? Or were they fitted at the same time as the 'charger?If I remember correctly did you not run 263 cams in your beast? I did idlle a bit lumpy?263 cams will not produce a lumpy idle if they are fitted correctly.I did take her out today and see pulls like a bloody train' date=' best rush I have had in ages.Though I did not see the boost gauge move at all??[/quote']If the gauge didn't move, this kind of points to an air leak.(If it is plumbed in correctly of course.)I did check that vacuum was there of which I felt the smallest ever.This also points toward an air leak. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 I had the cams fitted with the charger.263 cams will not produce a lumpy idle if they are fitted correctly. I used vag.com the full edition and measured the idle and it stayed at 800rpm.I am not sure what rev range I should see boost on a V3 vortech?If the gauge didn't move, this kind of points to an air leak.(If it is plumbed in correctly of course.) I will take another pic tomorrow of the set up for the recir and boost.Can anyone point me to what the stats should look like when measuring/metering with vag.com? Link to post Share on other sites
Antihero1981 8 Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 263 are not bumpy at all , i forget i have them in mine... Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 263 are not bumpy at all ' date=' i forget i have them in mine...[/quote']Thanks, so issue is either HT, or vacuum/air leak. Link to post Share on other sites
apd 0 Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 having owned a vr with a v2 for 5 yrs i can confirm vaccum should be evident n no boost reading?points to a air leak imho! Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Well I had an air leak from the recir, as it may have not been fitted correctly, I am still not convinced that its the right way now tbh, I will post a pic tomorrow. This has helped the positive boost for sure.I changed the HT leads, and MAF and this made a big difference.I took her out and could feel the positive boost after around 2500 rpm. So happy with that and she pulls well but noticed some juddering under throttle after the third or fourth long run. So this leads me to the next problem.I had the fuel pump uprated to a Walbo of which has sprung a leak from the seal I think. The two pipe's on the top have had the old clips removed and replaced with jubilee clips.What I noticed is that when you push the lid down you get sh*t loads of fuel coming out. So there goes my full thank.What makes it bloody worse is that I had to use a fire extinguisher to spray the bottom of the fuel tank as it was leaking heavily near the exhaust of which was up to temperature. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Well fuel pump issue resolved, the large top was not fitted correctly, so another issue resolved.I am already looking at replacing a few parts to replace, mostly the clips and re-cir valve as I want a stiffer spring as I am defo loosing boost there.So she is running better for sure, but still ticks over rough until it's driven. Also I am getting a pinking sound under throttle which is worrying! So please any advise would be great!! Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 You 100% have an air leak some where. I garuntee you have massive fuel trim values too. Where abouts is your MAF? Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 I will go through all the checks again, Does anyone have any test I can use? I will also check all the bolts connecting the throttle body and inlet manifold. I have checked the manifold vacuum hose to brake servo and found nothing there. I think I have replaced if not checked every hose I can think off but check again I will.United - The MAF is on the inlet side of the charger, roughly 10 inches plus away. It looks something like is from the charger downCharger inletSiliconePipework with ports for crank house oil breather and recirSiliconeMAFK&N air filterIts worth noting I did chance the MAF a few days ago and this helped the idling issue, well I think so! Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Well I decided on my lunch break to investigate the bolts connecting the Throttle body and inlet manifold.Cannot believe it there is a single bolt missing that connects the throttle body to the upper inlet manifold. So again more money and time, I've bought 4 new bolts and an gasket as a just in case, Its not bad it cost a £10 from TPS.I hope I am getting to the solution in the end. Link to post Share on other sites
spadam 7 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Modifying isn't easy it takes time, money and patience you will get there in the end. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Modifying isn't easy it takes time' date=' money and patience you will get there in the end.[/quote']Cheers Adam! Its a bloody long journey. At least its built not bought. Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 3 bolts instead of 4 clamping the throttle isn't enough to cause the ECU to throw a fit, but well done for spotting and rectifying it.This all reminds me of my S/C days with the oil vapours dripping down onto the MAF, water getting on the MAF and all such fun and games!The way the PCV vents back into the intake and dropping straight down onto the MAF was a big design flaw on VF Engineering's part, but we're not here to criticise your hardware :-)The MAF is king though. If he's not happy, nothing else is happy, especislly so in boosted applications, so make doubley sure the King is happy and snug as a bug away from smelly oil vapours and water.What you're doing is right, i.e. a process of elimination but sadly it's not a quick fix. RE: the injectors, yeah I forgot you are in standard intake land, which makes checking them harder. I don't think it's that anyway, but was worth a mention in case you were plum out of other ideas.....Oh and your boost guage should be showing ~ -20inHG at idle. If it's sat at 0, you 100% definitely have an air leak or you have plumbed the guage into a downstream pipe.... should be T'd off the fuel reg usually.... Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 one (or two) check(s) on the pinking (& to some extent lumpy idle)... you are running on super unleaded? Is/are your coilpack, plugs (worth a clean anyway) and Lambda all good..???? What do you have in your charger catch can???? Is it full...Just for idiots guide here as we wanna be sure mate.... Air filterMAFChargerThrottle bodySorry to say again.. but did you check each connection is spot on alighnment fitted and clamped correctly for the pipe run... It took me some time on getting the alignment right and was an issue for a time..As above keep the faith you'll get there... Then woo Hooooooooooo Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Cheers for your feedback' date=' its a slow and painful to resolution but I will get there soon enough.I am looking into getting a bung for the charger pipework for the crankhouse breather and getting a catch tank, I have most of the pipework, just need a catch can and bung. When I change the throttle body gasket I will double check the injectors again, just to be sure.Funny enough it was only today I figured out that I plumbed the boost gauge incorrectly. So that's been sorted.[/quote'] Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 one (or two) check(s) on the pinking (& to some extent lumpy idle)... you are running on super unleaded? Is/are your coilpack' date=' plugs (worth a clean anyway) and Lambda all good..???? I am currently running on standard unleaded at the mo, does it matter?I checked the coilpack, plugs and replaced the HT leads, just to be certain. What would be an indication or test to prove the Lambda?What do you have in your charger catch can???? Is it full... The kit no longer supplies a catch can, so I am looking into getting my own solution for that!Just for idiots guide here as we wanna be sure mate.... Air filterMAFChargerThrottle bodyMy setup is as above, I have checked, doubled checked all of the pipework.As above keep the faith you'll get there... Then woo Hooooooooooo - Thanks, each step gets me closer to positive boost.[/quote'] Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Just thought a picture paints a thousand words and all thatBoost gauge pipework fitted correctlyRe-cir fitted correctly Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Just bought some ASH T-Bolt Hose Clamps for a better fit to replace the Jubilee Hose Clips which I think are naf. Link to post Share on other sites
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