Does anyone have a guide for replacing rear beam bushes for poly?

[brynvr6 1]

As above, did a search but couldn't find anything.

Cheers.

Bryn

[Dragon Dave 1]

Step one - take it to a garage and get them to do it.

I'm sorry I'm not any more help.

I have just had mine replaced with Powerflex and I was advised to get a garage to do the job. The garage I booked it into said it would take 3 or 4 hours to do the rear beam mounts. It actually took them 5 hours because the old bushes were so perished. The mechanic said he had to drill into the old bushes and then cut them out.

I don't think it's a job to do at home.

I hope this is some help.

[VR6_Absy 0]

You have to get the rear beam off which means undoing shocks which is no prob

The biggest problem is the brake bias, which sits on beam.

I had to drill out the bolts because allen key just rounded off as they were correded and tight as fork.

Under a car with a power drill ain't fun.

But once off its plain sailing, cut out the old bushes or they just push out. Then you need to hacksaw through the metal bush sleeve.

Clean the bores and the Powerflex just push in with the grease.

Not an easy job, you'll swear a bit but achievable.

[brynvr6 1]

Am I right in thinking the later cars don't have the brake bias mounted on the beam? It seems simple enough, my biggest problem will be getting the old bushes out I think.

[VR6_Absy 0]

Am I right in thinking the later cars don't have the brake bias mounted on the beam? It seems simple enough' date=' my biggest problem will be getting the old bushes out I think.

[/quote']

Not sure mate, that would make life much easier. Anybody ??

[UnitedMotorsport 55]

Am I right in thinking the later cars don't have the brake bias mounted on the beam?

Correct!

[Ian_rogers 0]

U can be rough with gettin the old ones out though, don't matter if they get damaged etc

[VR6_Absy 0]

Am I right in thinking the later cars don't have the brake bias mounted on the beam?

Correct!

piece of p1ss then

[brynvr6 1]

Well I can now answer this out of experience.

1. Disconnect ABS sensor wiring

2. Disconnect brake lines and hand brake cables

3. 'Crack off' rear beam pivot bolts

4. Remove lower shock absorber mounting bolts (**Note - support the rear beam as it will drop at this point**)

5. Remove rear beam pivot bolts.

I found my bushes were so fucked they just required a few swift hits with a hammer to seperate the rubber from the steel outer sleeve. Then hacksaw 2 slits in the outer sleeve approx 3/4 of an inch apart and I used a chisel to remove the metal in between the slits (**note I didnt cut all the way through the sleeve to avoid damaging the metal underneath, as the poly bushes directly sit in there)

I then took some time and wire brushed and painted the rear beam before pushing the poly bushes in.

Use LOADS of grease with the poly bushes, make sure the inner face is thoroughly covered and then they will push in by hand. Also cover the inner sleeve with grease and push that into the new bushes.

The next part is the hardest bit. The poly bushes are thicker than the originals, so refitting the beam is a complete pain in the arse. You will need at least 2 people to do this. But with some precise jacking and jiggling, it can be done without too much hassle.

Then as they say in haynes book of lies "Re-fitting is the reversal of removal"

Once my rear beam was mounted I fitted my neuspeed rear anti roll bar. That proved almost as much of a mare as the rear beam was. But thats another post :-p

[CALICO 130]

i found it quite easy to get back in i used a ratchet strap

[spadam 7]

Have you noticed m,uch diffrence in handaling im going to do mine along with new wishbones and new top mounts and coilovers. just wondered what you thought of new rear beam bushes.

[CALICO 130]

didnt notice a great deal possibly more noticable on cars that are dropped alot more than mine or with stiffer shocks

[eltel 0]

Nightmare job! Lol. Like others had said, brake bias block... seized bolts, stupid idea to put steel bolts into an alloy block!! Couldn't shift mine so we cut through the bolt angot another from TPS, you can slide the bolt back in from the outside to in on the NS and you don't have to remove the compensator... Makes it much stiffer at the back and def noticeable on harder cornering

[spadam 7]

Think there only 38quid for the polybushes so may aswell while i do my coilovers and top mounts. Just want the car to be stiffer and more responsive all round really

[CALICO 130]

Nightmare job! Lol. Like others had said' date=' brake bias block... seized bolts, stupid idea to put steel bolts into an alloy block!! Couldn't shift mine so we cut through the bolt angot another from TPS, you can slide the bolt back in from the outside to in on the NS and you don't have to remove the compensator... Makes it much stiffer at the back and def noticeable on harder cornering

[/quote']

later cars dont have the silly brakebias to mess with

[brynvr6 1]

Havnt taken mine out much yet. Only a quick test drive to listen for knocks etc. It seems marginly stiffer around town but certainly not much. Will see how it handles when I've rebuilt the front suspension and had it all setup.

The theory behind the rear beam bushes is that the original bushes with the cutouts allow the beam to move under cornering, acceleration and braking. This changes rear toe and wheelbase and can make things a bit unstable at times. Caster and camber changes also naturally occur. With a solid bush with no cutouts, the beam will be held relatively stable in one position meaning better overall stability, although I'm sure they make the rear end a bit more 'snappy' especially when combined with stiff coilovers and an aftermarket anti roll bar.

[Knightrider 1]

I understood that the rear 'plusaxle' with the original bushes is supposed to provide (beneficial?) rear steering to aid cornering....and that the polies don't provide that as they are much stiffer and of a different design, so the rear steering effect is lost. Is this true?

I'm about to put a KONI SSK Sports kit on mine (only lowers about 30mm) and although the rear bushes have passed an MOT recently, I'm thinking of changing them as they are fairly knackered, albeit not yet failures, on the basis that the rest of the suspension needs to be in good shape to get the max from the suspension upgrade.

Sounds as if the polies are easier to fit though. Anyone have any thoughts or experience?

[brynvr6 1]

Yes you are correct, the bushes have cutouts to aid rear wheel steering. Which when controlled will be noticeable under cornering and changing lanes on a motorway etc. However with old worn bushes that are complying much more than they should the beam will be moving more than is necessary for rear wheel steering. I'd rather my track and wheelbase remain relatively constant and stable than have the rear wheels moving around.

New rubber bushes would make a vast improvement over original worn ones. But they do have to be aligned properly and pressed in with a special tool.

[vr6stormt 0]

I understood that the rear 'plusaxle' with the original bushes is supposed to provide (beneficial?) rear steering to aid cornering....and that the polies don't provide that as they are much stiffer and of a different design' date=' so the rear steering effect is lost. Is this true?

I'm about to put a KONI SSK Sports kit on mine (only lowers about 30mm) and although the rear bushes have passed an MOT recently, I'm thinking of changing them as they are fairly knackered, albeit not yet failures, on the basis that the rest of the suspension needs to be in good shape to get the max from the suspension upgrade.

Sounds as if the polies are easier to fit though. Anyone have any thoughts or experience?

[/quote']

i went for half and half ,oe bushes and brought some inserts from prothane usa easy to fit they block the holes around the oe bushes which in turn stops the play butyou still get a smooth ride..