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Help needed vr6 cutting out due to installing new momo wheel


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Took off my standard vr6 wheel just an hour ago, put on the momo wheel connected the earthing to the horn button and theres no horn wire for some reason? so no horn. the car is cutting out on me and sounds as though its missing.

what could it be?

oh and i put the standard wheel back on just to see if the abs and airbag lights would dissapear, connected the abs and airbag unit together and it the abs and airbag lights remained on.. i pressed the horn and it was very Faint and not the same as it sounded before i put the momo wheel on!!!

Any help from you guys would be much appreciated?

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No i wish i would have left it alone now, i cant blow anything can i just by changing the wheel around can i? i did all the right things. all the lights indicators alarm works perfectly. no theres just the earth wire which is housed insode the wheel behind the horn button. its one thing after the other with me :(

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that wire is the earth return for the horn relay which gets 12v always and its ground return is thru the wire to the push pad, easier than sending 2 x 12v wires up so they do it that way. It earths, when the pad is pressed, triggering the horn relay and sounding the horn, you may have a dud relay, or have over heated the coil in the relay by earthing the wire, surprised the horn didnt sound continuously....anyway your stuck with the airbag fault now unless you fit a 3ohm resistor across the airbag terminals, reset the ecu using the battery and maybe need vagcom too to reset the light, airbag faults tend to stick on,

I posted the relay and fuse diagram for someone, will dig it out or search the forum, and check the relay for the horn.

And the horn itself, can be faulty too. Could be coincidence?

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you can buy a resistor for about 20p from Maplins mate, online or in person, get 3 ohm 1/4 watt type, (soz for the late answer), and that will put the airbag light off, wont fix the horn but check the relay, the fuse and the horn itself...

fuse_block.jpg

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nah the relay should click every time it operates, no clicky no worky lol

Ah, the copper prong, I think there should be a jumper wire to link the prong to the boss metal?

The metal part of the boss must connect to earth (via the prong), and the lead coming up the centre should go to a tab on the horn button, touching the lead end to the copper prong should sound the horn, if the circuit is broken by fitting the boss then that'll be whats wrong bud, can u take a pic of the prong, lead and boss in place?

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disconnecting the battery doesnt upset the idle, or the ecu, that doesnt happen mate. The symptoms you describe are similar to a faulty MAF sensor, like mine is doing just now, you didnt fit a cone filter at the same time did you? The horn circuit has abolutely no connection to the idle, ecu or otherwise.

The 2 brass tabs on the wheel are meant to be joined by a short link wire, with a female spade at each end.

Just thinking, if the 2 tabs are on the horn push, one must go to actual earth, and the other to the horn wire to complete the connection when pushed!

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ok ill sort that out flyspeck

i do have an after market air filter on it, which came with it when i bought it. Im actually having a problem with it at the minute like i said with the bad idling. i noticed theres another topic on here about finding an oily spark plug and ht lead which to my suprise i found on 1 of my plugs, the shortest one nearest to the coil pack. i ordered a new gasket today i dont know if the oily spark plug has anything to do with it but im guessing its running on 5 instead of 6. who knows ill have to wait and see.

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