Scott

aye mine splutters if its low on fuel and you take a right hand bend too hard, or boot it away from a junction - shat meself the first time it did it, also seems to drive better with a full-ish tank. The extra weight even seems to even-out the engine mass. Now for more power.....

not bad mate, they are close to £70 most places. ebay kicks arse.

+1 on the maf. ive got 2, and one makes the engine idle lumpy, but gets great mpg. The other is down on mpg, but no lumpy idle! Im wearing the lumpy one just now lol...£1.20 a litre!

jeebus mate that sucks. I am rethinking my vr6 ownership meself after all this lol, its one bloody thing after another...

and you need a 2x2 adaptor to read the codes on the early type as they obviously dont connect to a standard obd plug. Mine was £3 off ebay.

no filter as standard but the pipe isnt meant to leak so you have a vac leak then because of this mate, replace the leaking pipes and there will be no more smell, plus the motor will run better.

was the chain rattly before it died? funny for it to jump if it wasnt slack mate, its a weird one.

I have no lambda, get 33.5mpg at a steady 65mph. My MAF caused running probs, but the lambda does not, mines obd1 however.

they sound too raspy with no resonator mate. Heres my fav sounding VR6, same setup as I have lol: clickyand another guy with similar set up: http://www.youtube.com/user/donvitovr6 clicky - play main vid.

Pearsy, that vag405 is a wicked tool mate, got one meself, it is epic-ly good and retail is around £200 in halfrauds, grab one bud. Mine is in the boot and goes everywhere wi me, cleared my maf problem with it and it runs perfect now, does immobs, radio codes, etc etc everything. It will pick up any fault codes as well as reset the ecu etc, remember when engine is off but ignition on and scanning, you will always always get an engine speed sensor fail, its just cos it isnt running, goes away when started. Its fake, unless it remains while cranking over on the key...then it is faulty right en

ah ok, no main feed to the instrument panel - I get ye. That has to be the main ignition feed, a huge fuse under the bonnet could be the culprit, near the passenger strut turret. Also check the plug going to the instruments and to the ignition switch, for 12v on at least one thick wire, measure to a known ground point like the ignition barrel body. I assume youve checked all the fuses, there is no specific one for the instruments but fuse 15, 10A is the engine electronics supply, Relay 3 is the engine control module one, maybe these are faulty and so the ecu is not waking up when the ignition

lol good one

you mean even in neutral mate, or when in gear and pulling away?

no idea mate, not enough info really to go on, its a swap that only a few folk have done. the fuel pump relay cannot be getting power, I would start there, the clocks illumination comes off the lighting switch to the right, after the fuse and relays.

soz good point mate, I have an obd1 vr6, keep forgetting the differences. M44 DUB - I live between glenrothes and cupar, and I have a VAG405 Scanner, If you want, I can check your motor for faults again and reset the ecu / immob etc. Chuck me a PM if you need it done mate.