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Emerald wiring to a vr6


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I doubt JKM will give you the wiring details over the phone, they'll want some money from you.

It's p1ss easy anyway. I've wired my DTA into the an OBD1 loom and also done a DTA loom from scratch, bypassing all the VW wiring completely.

I'll try and list what a I remember as some wiring varies across the cars:-

In ECU plug harness:-

Yellow/Blue - Fuel pump relay trigger

Grey/Black - ECU +12V relayed power supply

Green/Black - RPM signal for tacho

On coilpack:-

Purple/black - Coils 5/2

Blue/Black - Coils 3/4

Brown/black - Coils 1/6

And the the thick black wire is +12V supply, which can also feed the injector positives.

Knock sensors - You won't need as Emerald doesn't support it

Crank signal - White plug on front engine mount, use the VW wire and reterminate at the Emerald end.

Cam signal - Only use if you want to run sequential injection, but ditto above and the VR6 cam sensor needs a 12V supply, not 5V ;-)

Injectors etc are easy to trace with a beeper on a multimeter or peeling back the insulating tape and tracing back the colours.

For batched injection, pair together injectors 1/6, 3/4 and 5/2 on 3 injector drivers.

For sequential you'll need a driver for each injector and remember, the Emerald firing order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, so the physical wiring needs to be done like this to match the VR6's correct firing order:-

Emerald driver 1 = Injector 1

Emerald driver 2 = Injector 5

Emerald driver 3 = Injector 3

Emerald driver 4 = Injector 6

Emerald driver 5 = Injector 2

Emerald driver 6 = Injector 4

The crank sensor wire goes up the chassis leg as 1 continous length, but the other engine wires terminate at the round connector above the water pump and I would also terminate your emerald wires there.

There really is nothing to it mate. Some firms charge a bloody fortune for fitting and mapping ECUs but there's no need for it.

All the wiring stuff you need is online and there are some Emerald VR6 maps here (inc turbo) - http://k80rum.co.uk/emerald_maps.aspx

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Cheers kev, some usefull info there. I think my coil has different colours to that? Is there anyway of checking which wire fires what?

My prolem is that i look at wiring and see it as a daunting task! So many wires, and not wanting to blow anything up is always at the back of my mind!!

Getting the ecu off to be sorted on saterday, when its back let the wiring comense!

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Is yours a coilpack one?

If so, on the coilpack lift off the black cover that the loom clips into and you'll see 4 binding posts. Pin 15 will be a switched live and the other 3 will be the low tension signals. I may have muddled up the orientation but the post nearest the front of the cat is coil 1/6, the middle one is 3/4 and the rear one is 5/2.

Hope that helps!

Wiring can be daunting at first but it's really easy in practice :-)

Emerald can supply you with an unterminated loom for a reasonable price, which I would recommend you use. Dave Walker is also more likely to help you that JKM if you buy an ECU and loom from him ;-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a bit stuck, got 3 earths going to the ecu, brown/black, brown, brown/yellow, do i have to use all of these?

Also red/blue is constant live, another larger red/blue dead. Black/brown constant live too. Which 1 do i use for +12v for the ecu? I've worked out the switched power, black/green, does it need another power or will 1 be ok?

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The switched live from the ECU relay on my OBD2 loom is black / grey and that's the one I use to switch my DTA. That's what you need to find.

As for the earths, the Emerald only needs one of them and I think from Memory the plain brown one is the best one to use. The other 2 could be signal grounds, have you traced them back to their source?

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The best earth wire to use is the thicker solid brown wire that goes to pin 1 on the standard ECU.

The red/blue wire that goes to pin 54 of the standard ECU is permenant live - If the emerald requires s permenant live, this is the one to use.

Switched live is black/green that went to pin 38 of the standard ECU.

The thicker red/blue you mention that is "dead", this is swtiched live controled by relay. The black/brown that you mention that is constant live - this is the wire used to trigger the relay. This relay is the "Motronic control relay" and is in position 3 in the fusebox.

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Thank you, think i've sust it, the thing that was doing my head in was that the black/brown switched the relay on when earthed, but stayed on when the igntion is turned off. I thought it was meant to turn off with the key.

Solved it by using the black/green to power another relay, which switches the black/brown on to switch the main ecu power. Then i can use the larger red/blue to power crank, cam lc-1 and ecu.

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Right, think i might have blown my crank sensor, or wired it in wrong.

Check wiring and its going to what emerald recommend, i think?

I've got a black, red and green, the black going to pin 32, red going to pin 14, green going to pin 31.

Pin 32 being the mian trigger sensor earth, 31 crank sensor signal, and 14 +8v supply for external sensors.

I had wired in as a +12v to the red, which makes me think i may have blown it, because now i've wired it as a +8v supply it won't work.

Can any1 help with this please? Any1 had any similar problems etc?

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You've wired the crank sensor as a Hall sensor mate, it needs to be wired as an inductive. Refer to page 55 of the manual.

Needs to be like this mate:-

31 - Signal - Green or red

32 - Signal Ground - Green or Red

30 - Shield Ground - Black

I can't remember with the VW wiring which is the signal, but connect a voltmeter to the sensor and wave a bit of metal in front of it and it will show a small voltage on the signla wire. That's the one that goes to pin 31 on the Emerald.

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Yeah think i sust it finally yesterday, after buying a crank sensor i didn't need as mine still works, yay!

You are right about the wires, black is going to chassis ground now, and think i've put the green and red in correctly as the ecu is reading a signal. I did swap them over to check, and it wouldn't read a signal.

The emerald wiring diagram was slightly misleading, as it shows an inductive sensor as having 2 wires, and a digital as having 3, which made wire it in wrong.

Thanks for your help kev!

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