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Pete's OBD2 Corrado VR6 - On The Road


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It's alive!!!  

Went to my local pirtek branch to make up my oil lines as didn't have correct tools here to do the job and wanted peace of mind 🏻 They have done a great job and only £38 - I supplied the li

I went to Stealth yesterday, feeling quite apprehensive! I am the 3rd car that has used their new strapping system, so they can run higher power cars without needing to use glue all of the time, and a

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  • 2 weeks later...

getting it running is a while off, I wanted to turn it over on the key, charged the battery up, I get a loud click from the starter motor and then there is no power to anything, dash is dead, no lights, no windows etc.... I can get it back when I reconnect the batery, but same happens again... i'm wondering if something is shorting out on it...

I'm going to spend a day on it in a couple of weeks stripping some of the engine out, and fitting the coilovers if anyone fancies helping? :)

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no matw you r battery is dead, ive had the same thing, enough power to intially power the radio / clocks etc, but when you turn the key the dash etc goes out and nothing.

i used my jump pack to get it started.. then stuck a meter on it to check it was charging

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  • 2 months later...

Well i spent some time on it at the weekend.

battery is definatly ok, I think its the starter motor sticking or something... its a massive clunk noise and then loose all power until i disconnect battery and re-connect again.

I made a sound recording of the noise - i'll try and upload....

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Well i spent some time on it at the weekend.

battery is definatly ok' date=' I think its the starter motor sticking or something... its a massive clunk noise and then loose all power until i disconnect battery and re-connect again.

I made a sound recording of the noise - i'll try and upload....

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Just to double check me old fruit... batteries can do this (part of my job - je suis un Engineer)... The old fashioned way to test is to turn your lights on and watch what happens when you turn the key... If the headlights go out then its your battery.. if they stay on then its the motor..

NB batteries can be made to look like they have the correct voltage (following a charge cycle) but they hold no current under failure mode (they go open circuit) so the check is showing if current is flowing with enough umpffffhhhh

just worth a double check.. ;) and good luck...

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I've just bought a multi metre, awaiting it in the post to check battery.

the problem is when it clicks, all the electrics go off and never come back on again until i actually disconnect the battery and re-connect, the alarm / lights / windows work as expected.

using my multimetre, whats the best way to check voltage is ok??

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the voltage isnt the only thing thats at issue. the voltage can read okay... you will need to put the meter in series to check the current and ideally know what the imeadance of the bolck is to measure it as well and compare.. the voltage is parallel connection i.e accross the terminals

If you can pop a new block in or jump it off another car then thats the easy fix to see if it is the battery as you bypass the battery as you connect in parallel when you jump a car off..

It would be good to hear the sound and tripple check the negative connection on your starter motor.. and body..

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Sorry... here's smone more and no egg sucking meant...

if you want to know how they are made etc then here you go..

http://www.checkthatcar.com/carfaq2.asp

to check the voltage simply conncet the matching colours of the meter leads to the terminals... use the DC and Voltage settings on the dial and make sure your scale can go to 12....you are looking for 12v or more... but that wont tell you everything..

As you havent been able to try jumping it - it may be worth getting a new battery to try and take it back afterwards..

I know it sounds obvious but the connections are all clean and free from any crap as well arent they??

Make sure you check the terminations on the starter motor for damaged cables both at the starter motor connection and the other end of the cable. That could be a short circuit point...

The click always leads you to look at the battery not having enough juice.. as that is the sound of the solenoids etc activation.. the display and all their bits only take small current(amps) the starter takes wads of current(amps). the headlight test shows us if the battery has current or not and they should dim which shows us there isnt enough current... they dim as the click starts as the current keeping them on is then drawn in to the starter..

The reset lends itself to the fact that the ecu has reset itself as current is so low...

That said it would be good to hear the click/clunk as that may point us somewhere else.. Either way we need to rule the battery out and they are usually the cause of most issues like this..

Keep us informed and i hope this helps a little

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Cheers mate, I do have a spare leasure battery, I'll attach it to jump leads as the terminals are the otherway around at the moment, cant get another car down the drive to jump it, as ive got a skip blocking the entrance to my drive.

will have an update over the weekend :)

Pete

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I think it was just a stuck starter motor in the end. Hooked my multimeter upto the battery and went to turn it over and it turned over just fine today lol. Battery maintained ~12 volts. All good at least I know starter is ok. I think it's because it's been standing for so long!

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=389972679131

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