Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts

[gazchill 0]

Does anyone know what the correct size is for this Hex Bolt ?

8mm is to small and turned in the bolt :-(

10mm is to big

Can't seem to find a 9mm in any of the local tool shops - I'm going to order one off the web but was starting to think the bolt might be f****d

Thanks

[rodney 17]

Chances are bolt has seen it m8, though I cannot remeber off the top of my head what size it is. There is always the old wheel theif fav and one of those sockets with the lots of little things in it like you used to put your face imprint in when you were a kid.

It is Not an uncommon issue. If you have killed it - To remove you get to have fun in a confinded space with an angle grinder and a screw/thread remover.

A garage will charge you about 2-3hours labour for it and the new bolts cost £1 each from VW.

I have this problem on my rears and am building the courage to have a go mysef.... Got to be better than £100 and if I kill them I can get new ones for the same costs-ish.

Good luck

[gazchill 0]

Can you just drill the head off it or does the bolt thread go into the caliper mount

[Petesvw 0]

Bolt goes tru the stub axle in to the carrier Gaz.

You can get mole grips on to the bottom one, top is harder to get to tho, due to the flexi been mounted above it via a bracket!

If you drill the head off, you may stuggle to get the carrier out, as it sits very close to the disc, and you will have about 3mm of thread left on the bolt!

[gazchill 0]

hmmm - Starting to sound like a pain.

Has anyone out there had the same problem and managed to get them out ?

I was thinking about the EZ bolt out kit but have heard they dont work on high torque bolts (They can snap and leave you in even more trouble)

[rodney 17]

There have been a couple of people on here who have had a grumpy mechanic on their hands when they have had too do it, otherwise It seems one of those real pain jobs hence the need for a "stiff drink" as it were before you have a go. If you are going to use extractors get a good set as if you're doing this you will always end up doing another one at some point.

It may be worth popping down to your mechanic and asking their opinion as they are always a good source of info and dependant on what they'll charge - it may keep your knuckles in tact. Dont be affraid to let them have a look at whats wrong; they can whip a wheel off in moments!

[dellert 0]

I used a Stud extracot on the bolt head. The harder you turn the harder it grips, worked wonders, till I broke it. Now got a good quality one. Knock the Allen key in with a hammer, that helps too, unless its rounded off. Else grind it off, or like they say get the mechnic to do it, they will be in a grump after though!

[CP 0]

I recently had the same problem, I found that hitting an old socket(think was 15mm) over the head of the allen bolt then using a long t-bar to crack them off, worked very well. Although b prepared 2 loose skin,lol. Then went to my local bolt dealer n got some ordinary bolts(not hex 1's) for 50p, job a good un. hope this helped.

[gazchill 0]

Which Stud/Bolt Extractor would people recomend ?

[gazchill 0]

Am thinking of trying the "Grabit" tis on Ebay for 25 notes at the moment. Anyone used it on a high torque bolt

[bigpol 0]

Ive had to smash the braking surface of the disc off before now and free the bearing remove the central part of the disc as normal then the braking surface clears the caliper carrier, once that is done there are 4 13 or 14mm bolts that hold the hub to the swing arm undo these (usually spud poppin tight)the hub comes away from the swing arm and you have all the space you need to take the bolts out with mole grips! a bit extreme i know but it works and you get the chance to swing a big hammer in anger!!!! P.S only good if your discs are trollied!

[gazchill 0]

:-) Same problem 3 years later. And I must admit kit smacking the disk with the hammer was good fun - Thanks Shmuckbucket