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Traction Control (do you have it??)


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i suppose its easy to wheelspin if you wanna...i have to remember i am much smoother on the controls than the average person (not meaning to be big headed...many a race instructor has said it tho), so i subconciously avoid wheelspin.

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I find more bite, less throttle is much better way to launch.

I'm running a reasonably powerful VR now and find it's always to much gas that causes wheelspin.

For a good start try being right on the biting point with the HANDBRAKE on.

Then again.. I'm still working on my starts.. so don't take too much notice!

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I find more bite' date=' less throttle is much better way to launch.

I'm running a reasonably powerful VR now and find it's always to much gas that causes wheelspin.

For a good start try being right on the biting point with the HANDBRAKE on.

Then again.. I'm still working on my starts.. so don't take too much notice![/quote']

never sit on the biting point for long, esecially using lots of rpm...the clutch will die!

heres the way i was tought to launch a car by SRS (silverstone race school), but bear in mind it was rwd...

as the car stops, bring the clutch up to the biting point till you just feel it then put the pedal about half an ince below it (not at the bottom of its travel as you waste time releasing it then), sit with constant revs at about 5000rpm, focus totally on the red light (the green light does not exist as far as you're concerned), as it goes of release the clutch and feed power in on the limit of wheelspin. any excessive wheelspin reduces accelaration, so learn to work around the traction point and test your revs at start of warm up lap, if you get too much wheelspin use about 500 less at the proper start.

the optimum for accelaration is to have the wheels starting to brake traction, but not actually wheelspinning.

...the most important bit is the last line.

rwd is easy tho, as the rear of the car is pushed into the ground on accelaration thus helping grip. fwd is messy to launch, as grip is taken away from the driven wheels the more you accelarate.

[ Edited Thu Jun 17 2004, 11:30AM ]

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Andrew. I drove 20k miles like that last year. With the charger on. Several Pod Sessions. Race meets ect ect.

I changed my clutch recently and guess wot?

The clutch I took off (The ORIGINAL clutch) had at least another 100k on it.

VR6 Clutches are indestructable (almost). If I can't break one.. no-one will.

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nah, a 16v thats mildly nodded like his will have a vr6 upto about 100mph, then the vr6 will readress the balance...but who cares really?!

i even had an 8v keepin up with me the other night (its far from standard tho)

he also goes through a gearbox each month! lol

[ Edited Thu Jun 17 2004, 03:57PM ]

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I have an 8v MK2 and my modded VR, and I think the 8v was quicker up to about 70 ish, then the VR creams it. Now I have the Shrick on though its all together a different matter, think they are evenly matched till 70 ish (VR may have the nod slightly) Think its all down to power to weight and the gearbox ratio's basically.

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i assume brakin is similar if i brake hard i hav the abs just twitchin tryin to come on but just short seems the quickest way to scrub speed the suspensions helps lots its stops very stable doesnt wander at all

yeah, usually braking hard but not quite hard enough to have the abs kicking in on the front wheels is the best way to stop quick (if thats what you mean), but sometimes you get the system pushing the pedal slightly when the rears start to lock...no need to keep short of that point. if the rear steps out it'll only go a certain way before the abs scoops it up...usually.

the abs on my vr6 is the best sytem i've ever had on one of my own cars...buts its still not perfect, i've had times where i've had to come off the brakes to prevent the car swapping ends! but then i don't brake like the average (sane) human being!

worth noting that the system fitted to later cars is better.

i do like the wway the system allows a fair degree of lock up though..nothing like a squeel of tyres...my previous car's abs sysstem would allow no wheel lock up, and it was dangerous in the wet and especially on snow as the system backed the brakes off so much that you had no retardation at all! i ended up stopping with only the handbrake when it snowed as the foot brake did nothing (thankfully only snowed once whilst i owned the car), until i got it wrong hit a pavement and took the top off an alloy! (for people info, the car in question was an '00 punto sporting)

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i had an n reg punto 1.2 no abs and it was LETHAL on the brakes i did several delibrate and a couple of accidental 90degree "handbrake" turns usin only the foot brake it was ridiculously tail happy espescially in the wet it was fun though and yes the car fell to bits they really r crap nice engine though

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my vr6 is like that now!

i've worked out why. everyone told me loads of camber made a golf twitchy, but when i had it set the car didn't feel twitchy at all. but the wishbone bushes were worn out. now i've got poly bushes on, all the geometry is stayin where it should, and thus its twitchy.

but i'm really startin to love it! you can steer the car on the pedals beutifully now. i'm a 'pedal' driver, as oppose to a 'steering' driver (i.e. i use the pedals to move the car around in corners, and keep the wheel pretty still, a la alain prost/jenson button. other drivers use loads of steering input instaed, a la nigel mansell/felipe massa)

[ Edited Fri Jun 18 2004, 10:51PM ]

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i hope ur not puttin mansell in the same bracket as massa lol i know what u mean though i occasionaly hav a play with the back end and my misses says u nearly lost it then cuz i barely steer but go round the corner its a bit of a buz and it scares her bonus lol

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