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Neil20vtc

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Everything posted by Neil20vtc

  1. dunno whats happened there lol meant to be these pics at the end
  2. so bit more progress fettled the injector rail so it would sit properly ended up having to chop the original mounting points off and make some brackets up no pics unfortunatly then got some slimline fans to be mounted to the rad with some fan brackets i bought from a gb on the corrado forum discovered that as my rad was non genuine it didnt have the tabs for the brackets to mount to so ended up welding my own on to make it work next job was mounting the intercooler which is a custom made job that i bought used of a chap on the corrado forum as you can see i
  3. Update on this Cleared the codes and tried again the sai ones never showed again but two codes for the rear lambdas heater circuits short to ground showed up cleared those messed around with a few things and finally got the car to run but now showing a code for the maf and inlet temp sensor cleared those codes with the car still running and it instantly stalled and wouldn't start again unplugged the maf and it runs so I'm hoping the stalling issue is due to a faulty maf will get one tomorrow and see if it sorts it
  4. not got round to changing the coils yet as car hadn't been misbehaving but as of this morning it now starts then cuts out straight away if you apply the throttle or after a few seconds in idle, plugged the laptop in as well as the original codes I posted above it is now showing 16785 and 17819 which from what I've found are to do with the secondary air injection system any ideas if this is the cause of the stalling or is it due to the problem with the coils/plugs? any help appreciated Neil
  5. Thanks for the reply i shall get some coils ordered
  6. After some help/advice please having some bother with my other halfs 4mo missfiring it did it a few weeks ago intermittently which then turned into constantly plugged the laptop in fault codes pointed to no 6 cylinder missfire so I replaced the coil pack ( I erased the codes at this point) all seemed good then the other day it missed for a few seconds then returned to normal I have scanned it again and got these codes 17606- lambda sensor heater circuit b1 s2 electrical malfunction, 16684- random/multiple missfire and 16685- cylinder 1 missfire detected my question is the lambda/ th
  7. thanks for the comments and yes pete been meaning to do an update for a while but never ended up getting round to it due to one thing or another! got the downpipe finished off over christmas and modded the factory heatshield so it would fit with the turbo setup since christmas ive managed to get a bit of time on an odd nite and weekends to chip away at bits,welded a an fitting to the sump for the turbo oil drain and also gave the sump a quick clean up and spray also finished off the turbo oil feed line then recently i have been on with making an adaptater for the throttl
  8. I have a quaife in my 20vt mk2 totally transforms how the car drives not so much straight line traction but traction out of corners is awesome! I've put a peloquin one in my vrt project but have yet to drive it, from what I have read it's basically a copy of the quaife but cheaper which is why I went for it! Think the reason people rave about the wavetrac is that it works if you are on or off the throttle whereas the likes of quaife and peloquin only work on throttle also pretty sure you can change the wavetracs internals to make it more/less aggressive There's a few people on the corrado
  9. well not updated this for a bit! ended up media blasting the adapter after i chopped and re welded it to make it as small as possible and gave it a quick spray in hi temp paint to stop it going rusty like the exhaust mani has after me taking so long! so with that now fitted the turbo sits like this totally missing the servo and resevoir then in early oct the car moved to my house unfortunatly on a flatbed not under its own steam, this now means i can do bits on the car when i have a spare bit of time as simply wasnt worth driving upto the barn where it was to do an odd half hour so i h
  10. well after going on holiday and getting over being pissed off about the manifold i decided to have a go at making something up,what was the point in learning to weld and buying a welder if it wasnt to get out of situations like this i bought some t3 flanges off ebay and some 3mm walled mild steel rectangular box section in the closest size to the port on the flanges and turbo, used my chop saw that i bought to do some flooring in the house to cut the angles as it has a multi purpose blade in it although dont think ill be doing any more flooring with it! ive flared the ends that meet the flan
  11. Most of the bits I got were branded ie peloquin diff arp head bolts so knew they would be ok,the oil cooler kit I got isn't though and seems good quality looks almost identical to the mocal ones I've seen people use
  12. I bought some of my turbo bits from bar tek worked out cheaper than uk due to the pound being strong compared to the euro also don't have to pay any import duty as its within the eu, took a wee while to turn up but that was to do with them waiting on a few of the items coming from the U.S.
  13. Cheers for the link I'm going to have to decide wether to try make something like that up or just get another manifold!
  14. popped up to the car on friday removed the two brake hard lines and attached the turbo to the manifold as well as the tubo inlet facing directly towards the master cylnder the turbo also touches the servo!! so question is if i do like gaz205t suggested and lets say make a 90' bend with two t3 turbo flanges to swing the turbo up out of the way will this really hamper the flow of the manifold and affect performance? some pics of how it looks
  15. Great progress fella hats off to ya for having a go at mapping it
  16. Good idea cheers I'll look into it as would depend on if it all then gets in the way of the wastegate as you say though would be nice to leave the brake servo as it is
  17. Will do, gonna be a while before I get it down there though Popped up to the barn on sat afternoon with the intention of attaching the turbo to the exhaust manifold so I could start making the rest of the downpipe but it fouls on the hardlines going to the brake master cylinder this in itself wouldn't be too much of a problem as I know from others builds that you can relocate the reservoir/change the routing of the lines but due to how the exhaust manifold I have slopes down it looks like the turbo inlet is going to be exactly where the master cylinder is anyone any ideas what I could do to ge
  18. Got the box fitted on tues nite and the engine back on its mounts which seemed like a mini milestone after it being hanging on one mount and axle stands for so long Then yesterday afternoon got most of the ancillaries back on shafts and suspension back on and spent yet more time fettling the injector rail so the injectors are seated properly don't know who designed the short runner but it is certainly not a direct fit once I'm happy with the injectors sitting properly I'm going to have to drill and tap some new holes for the throttle body as they don't line up either!
  19. I'm getting the 4" maf from stealth when it gets mapped, they said it would be ok to drive it to them off boost running the original maf and injectors them swap them over to get it mapped Was planning on using a reducer to mate the original maf to the 4" turbo intake pipework then when get to stealth can fit the bigger maf and air filter, swapping the injectors will be straight forward as I'm using a short runner intake so they are easily accessible
  20. Progressing nicely mate, what angles did you use for getting over the rear beam?
  21. Using Bosch blue 470cc injectors that I got from bar tek,the original ones are currently fitted as have to keep these in along with the original maf and drive it off boost until I get it down to stealth to be mapped In tank pump wasn't too bad a job I followed the guide on here and looked at what others had done on there builds, I ended up using chemical metal to hold the new pump in the old ones place as it's slightly smaller, its not quite sat as low as I would like but will see how it goes, I think that if you buy the kit from stealth it comes with a spacer to help it sit lower I unfortuna
  22. right been a while but started doing stuff on this again basically came to a standstill due to doing things on the new house,doing some work on my mk2 now that i have a garage and also making the mistake of telling the local lad who has been checking my box over and fitting the diff that i wasnt in a hurry due to moving into said house gave it to him in feb got it back last weekend! but now its back im cracking on with it and intend on the car coming to the new house in oct (when my rent on the barn where it is now runs out) whether that be by its own steam or on a flatbed! i finished my t
  23. Currently fitting my walbro in tank pump for my vrt project I've read the guide on here and also looked at some other folks builds but still want to clarify something The walbro pump is smaller than the original and I've read that fitting it as low as possible is better as it will surge less but it seems if I do this due to the pump being smaller it won't be sealed at the lid some of the threads I looked at had bought the kit from stealth and it looked like they had a spacer which eliminated this problem but I bought mine second hand but new and it didn't include the spacer, do I need to get o
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