Jump to content

Gregsyb

Members
  • Content Count

    71
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Gregsyb

  1. Thanks bud, I will give them a go do you run an external oil cooler?
  2. I've searched and can't find the right thread. Looking for a metal coolant pipe replacement that will work with my external oil cooler, I've emailed c2 and gruven parts but still waiting a reply so thought i would try here Are these the best places to get? Cheers, G
  3. If its the "low coolant wire". I think you can cut off the connector and join the wires together to complete the circuit. Could try by joining the pins with a paperclip or wire. Although, you wont have a working low coolant sensor anymore as the light will never come on. I'm sure someone will be along who's done it in the past with a bit more information.
  4. By searchin i found that you need: engine loom from fuse board out & the engine main loom (injector loom) maf lamdba throttle body mani fan control unit engine cooling fan ECU with matchin key and immb ring some re-wiring for the ABS Doesn't sound a 2 minute job tbh
  5. Got the metal from the old bush removed (thanks to paul parky, cheers mate!) powerflex' pressed in, masked off and gave the beam 2 coats of black hammerite: Decided to start stripping the car: Goodbye heat shields: Everything off the underside: Hope to have the majority of the underside coated by the end of this week. I've have a few tins of this (http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/underbody.htm) stuff, however having second thoughts. Because it doesn't dry and stays sticky, i'm thinking of coating the arches in hammerite and the floor with the underbody seal. Anyone for / against? Ciao
  6. Cheers mate, got them out last night no problems, no so difficult once you know what your doing!
  7. Thanks buddy, Chisel and hammer to kind of "roll" it out? Going turbo I'm doing all of the work (that i can) myself. So its not going to be a quick turn a round, more like an on-going project
  8. The story of Doog. This is what he looked likewhen i first got him, had some mk4 style lights which i changed to cl's. Also changed the de-badged grill: Pressed plates: Changed the momo for a mk2 / rocco wheel: Put in black highline leather interior and wired in the heated seats under the dash / carpet: Then smoked the front lights, quite a lot. Before: After: Then bought 2 sets of merc 8 hole wheels, 1 staggered and one the same. Stretched tyres, Got coilovers, changed the half red rear lights all fitted at the same time: Now: He's off the road and tucked away for more ponies. S
  9. Looking good, really like those wheels, suits it well imo! Any future plans for it?
  10. I've got that sealey engine stand, definitely recommended for the price. Bought it from the same seller too. When mine arrived, half he bolts were missing due to Mr. Postman driving like a clown! Emailed the seller and he sent me a full set of fasteners. Top bloke!
  11. There's a few different types that seem to be very similar also :S
  12. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MMHP/Ansaugbrucken-Einspritzleien-/_i.html?_fsub=2178555016 Anyone used one before or have any thoughts? They look quite well priced in comparison with the SP ones.
  13. Thanks for the reply, Why would you suggest leaving it alone? Is it just the price vs. the gains is not worth it?
  14. I'm currently in the early stages of my turbo set up and have a question. I phoned up a local head skimming/ engineering company today about skimming my cylinder head whilst I take it off of the car. The owner told me that he would skim it but wouldn't recommend porting or polishing in any way. He said it was messy and wasn't worth the gains. I'm really no expert and very new to this so just wondering if its true? Are ported and polished heads worth it when going turbo? Or would it be better to keep it standard and just get it skimmed? This is my first question on vr6oc though as a whole, the
×
×
  • Create New...