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brynvr6

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Everything posted by brynvr6

  1. brynvr6
    I know someone that might want to sell one mate if your seriosuly interested ?? PM'ed
  2. brynvr6
    Is there any chance of another carbon fibre bonnet group buy anytime soon? I'll be looking for one in the next few weeks.
  3. brynvr6
    Probably an optional extra with air con.
  4. brynvr6
    There is a proper jacking point just infront of the rear beam mounts. If you put a bit of wood or thick card on the axle stand to protect the floor u can put the stands there mate
  5. brynvr6
    They are easy to do if you change them for poly ones. The hardest part is refitting the beam when the new bushes are in. And just a bit of advice, I wouldnt put axle stands on the sill mate.
  6. brynvr6
    Team Dynamics Pro race series. The pro race 1.2's (like mine) are fitted to lotus Elise/Exiges from the factory. 15's weigh in at 15.1lb's 16's weigh in at 16.2lb's 17's weigh in at 17.3lb's
  7. brynvr6
    Yeah tbh I can't complain with the VR. It's done 70 miles a day 5-6 days a week for the last 8 months and all that's gone wrong was a slight water leak from the heater matrix hose. And it's 100 squillion times better to drive than that KA. Can't wait to get it back it's gonna feel so good hahaha.
  8. brynvr6
    Does anyone know where I can get new plastic outer sill mouldings from? I have tried volkswagen direct but the part number is not recognised.
  9. brynvr6
    And to top it off I have a KA courtesy car!
  10. brynvr6
    My car is booked in to the local bodyshop today to have the front ends of the sills repaired (old jacking war wounds) and a hole in the floorpan welded up. So yesterday I removed the interior and the sill trims to make life easier for the bodyshop. While I was there I noticed 2 holes in the sills where they had creased when being jacked up on. A hole at the very rear at the bottom of the wheel arch which had then allowed copious amounts of water and soil to enter the sill and has rotted the rear off the sill out from the inside. So now I'm going for full sill replacement. What on earth were vw
  11. brynvr6
    I have indeed mate. I havnt done many miles with it but I have started to play with the handling and tbh im impressed. There is no understeer at all. You turn in and feed the power in and as you approach the limits of grip it begins to slide sideways, then if you keep it planted the back end starts to twitch and slide. Its really progressive and controllable though. Im very impressed with it. I did a lot of research into anti roll bars and a lot of people recommend a rear one only. As soon as you add the front one you bring all the understeer back, all you have essentially done is stiffened t
  12. brynvr6
    The knocking sounds like a CV joint if it only happens on full lock. Yeah if the coilpack is cracked then thats the first thing to change before looking at anything else.
  13. brynvr6
    Sounds more like coincidence to me. Does the knocking occur on full lock or only on slight turns? As for the hesitation/shuddering, when was the car last serviced?
  14. brynvr6
    00522 is engine coolant temperature sensor 00527 is Intake air temperature sensor 00533 is idle air control regulation
  15. brynvr6
    They are 50 odd quid each from VW. Interestingly ETKA shows the same part numbers for OBD1 and OBD2 VR's.
  16. brynvr6
    ETKA says: Left front 1J0927803 Right front 1J0927804
  17. brynvr6
    Whey another storm grey VR! Looking good fella, looking forward to seeing the next pics
  18. brynvr6
    Yes you are correct, the bushes have cutouts to aid rear wheel steering. Which when controlled will be noticeable under cornering and changing lanes on a motorway etc. However with old worn bushes that are complying much more than they should the beam will be moving more than is necessary for rear wheel steering. I'd rather my track and wheelbase remain relatively constant and stable than have the rear wheels moving around. New rubber bushes would make a vast improvement over original worn ones. But they do have to be aligned properly and pressed in with a special tool.
  19. brynvr6
    Havnt taken mine out much yet. Only a quick test drive to listen for knocks etc. It seems marginly stiffer around town but certainly not much. Will see how it handles when I've rebuilt the front suspension and had it all setup. The theory behind the rear beam bushes is that the original bushes with the cutouts allow the beam to move under cornering, acceleration and braking. This changes rear toe and wheelbase and can make things a bit unstable at times. Caster and camber changes also naturally occur. With a solid bush with no cutouts, the beam will be held relatively stable in one position m
  20. brynvr6
    Well I can now answer this out of experience. 1. Disconnect ABS sensor wiring 2. Disconnect brake lines and hand brake cables 3. 'Crack off' rear beam pivot bolts 4. Remove lower shock absorber mounting bolts (**Note - support the rear beam as it will drop at this point**) 5. Remove rear beam pivot bolts. I found my bushes were so fucked they just required a few swift hits with a hammer to seperate the rubber from the steel outer sleeve. Then hacksaw 2 slits in the outer sleeve approx 3/4 of an inch apart and I used a chisel to remove the metal in between the slits (**note I didnt cut all the
  21. brynvr6
    Am I right in thinking the later cars don't have the brake bias mounted on the beam? It seems simple enough, my biggest problem will be getting the old bushes out I think.
  22. brynvr6
    As above, did a search but couldn't find anything. Cheers. Bryn
  23. brynvr6
    I'm just upgrading the rear. In all fairness I did order a 25mm rear bar however it's on back order and won't be available for weeks so I opted for the 28mm. Yeah snap oversteer in the wet could be an issue. It is an adjustable bar however so I will be running it at it's softest setting to start with. I read up a lot about anti roll bar upgrades. The Americans mostly use whiteline or shine racing rear bars with standard fronts. General consensus is that fitting a rear bar does the world of good then fitting an uprated front bar brings all the understeer right back. All you do is stiffen everyt
  24. brynvr6
    Id be up for a bonnet :-)
  25. brynvr6
    I have since spoken to an ex powerflex dealer who recommended I use poly rear wishbone bushes and rear beam bushes and original front wishbone bushes (As the rear ones have the cutouts which cause toe/track change under cornering, accelerating and braking. but to keep the rest original rubber to retain ride comfort. I have however gone for all poly wishbone bushes and rear beam bushes. Original anti roll bar bushes and new OEM drop links. And a 28mm adjustable rear anti roll bar. I will be fitting the bits over easter so we will see what its like :-).
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