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jonny-5

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Everything posted by jonny-5

  1. jonny-5
    When the other way to the photos in the end and now it's all back together and running sweetly. Dunno if it's made a noticable difference, think I'm more feeling the full power of 6 cylinders rather than the 5 and 1/4 I had before!
  2. jonny-5
    Just been trying agian. Can only get it like the photos or the same amount but the other way, if you know what I mean. It's like it's half a tooth out and I don't think I can do much about it! I'm sure it'll run in either set up. Am I right in thinking by either advancing or retarding the cam timing away from standard, will I be moving the power band up or down the rev range? If I wanted to bring the power band down the range which way would I want it? Like it is in the photos or the other way?
  3. jonny-5
    I know what you mean don't worry. Yeh I'm gunna have another go at it today, I was probably just being silly with it and gett fustrated. Just thought that if you took alot off the face when skimming it then it would mess up the chain lengths and you would never be able to get it quite as good timing as with a standard head.
  4. jonny-5
    Here's the pics the top one is the best to see it properly, but the bottom one is out by exactly the same.
  5. jonny-5
    Hi, I've just been doing my head gasket. Got the rebuilt head on and am just doing the timing. The crank is on the TDC mark but I can't get the slots in the cams to line up - they are slightly out. I've double checked everything and tried a few times to get it aligned but can't get it quite right. The cams are only a degree or so out but it's enough to mean the timing tool won't slide in. I've done the timing chains before on this car so I'm pretty confident with the whole thing, The engine turns over fine with it out as far as it is. Could I be right in thinking that because the head has been
  6. jonny-5
    Have you got a multimeter or test lamp to check the wiring? Hard to tell if they work or not, surely the pipes can freeze up too!
  7. jonny-5
    Pretty sure it's just the cold. I have climtronic too an mine doesn't switch on now either. It's to protect the compressor I believe, something to do with expansion rates and stuff. Hot water wouldn't work but maybe try a fan heater in front of the sensor instead if you want to be sure.
  8. jonny-5
    For future reference, there is no head gasket set available from VW, just the parts individually. Also the head gasket VW supply you with is a Victor Reinz item and bar an embossed VW logo and part number appears to be exactly the same as one you could purchase at any good motor factors.
  9. jonny-5
    Thanks for that, but that shows just the head gasket on it's own on mine. I was looking for a full head gasket set that comes with exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets etc. Sets for other engines are on MG:1, SG:98 illustration: 198-00R. None for the VR6 though. I am running EKTA 7, fully updated if it makes any difference. Gunna give VW a call in the morning to see what the deal is.
  10. jonny-5
    Hi all, just got my fully rebuilt head back today. I was thinking of splashing the cash and going for a genuine head gasket set from VW, only thing is I couldn't find the head gasket set for the VR6 on ETKA, it had one for pretty much every other type of engine. Does anyone know if they do one and if so any idea how much they are?
  11. jonny-5
    Sounds worth while, doing a head swap in the next few weeks so i'm tempted to get and fit it at the same time. Where did you get it from?
  12. jonny-5
    Didn't bother with a group buy in the end, it's cheaper just to buy them with the code mentioned earlier
  13. jonny-5
    Thanks for the reply. Did a compression test last night and all were in spec (between 10-12 Bar, number 1 was on the limit though (7 Bar), I think this is because pressure is escaping though the area that was leaking a little oil , I've been thinking about it and I also reckon just the head. I made myself a big list last night of all the bits i'm gunna change so I can gather the parts over the next few weeks. Anyone got any special reccomendations for parts like only using Febi head bolts as there are stories of GSF one's being a bit soft? Also what ofther things should I may as well change wh
  14. jonny-5
    Hi all, i'm after some advice regarding a potential engine rebuild. My VR has recently started producing blue smoke when going full throttle after over-running (down a hill, throttle closed), has slightly noisy tappets and the head gasket weeps a very, very small amout of oil on the crank pulley side. I recently purchased another head and can get it skimmed and anything necessary replaced very easily. The thing is; I was thinking as I'll have the head off I may as well change the rings and big end bearings, which then made me think I may as well go for a full on engine rebuild (nothing crazy j
  15. jonny-5
    Warm air flaps on the heater box?
  16. jonny-5
    Ok, just spoke to HIDS4U and for an order of 10 kits in either 5000k, 6000k or 8000k the discount would be 15%, bringing the basic kit down to £76.46 (+PP). Alternatively you can use the discount code that lukey mentioned it goes to £67.00 (+PP) instead!
  17. jonny-5
    For those interested, I have enquired about a possible group buy. I shall keep you all updated as to their response
  18. jonny-5
    I'm all for a discount! Reckon this sounds like a plan then. Thanks
  19. jonny-5
    Cool cool. So around 5000 is pure white and as you higher they go more blue/purple?
  20. jonny-5
    Hi all, I've been thinking about treating myself to some HID's seeing as winter is coming soon, what kits have people got or had experience with? Is it an ebay special job or have you any reccomended suppliers. Any input is appreciated
  21. jonny-5
    Think bomb's bit of a nick name for it. It's basically an aerosol can with a locking nozzle. You put your A/C on fully cold, on full power, make sure it's on re-circ, close the windows and doors. Then put the can in the middle of the car somewhere, activate it, then get outta there! Then you just leave it 10 mins of so for the vapours to work there way round. Kills all the bacteria that like to live in the evaporator and makes it smell nice too! Try searching for A/C freshener or something in ebay - they're only a fiver or so
  22. jonny-5
    Yeh true, just nice to have everything working too. it smells a bit funky at the moment though, I was getting a headache on the way home! So i've ordered one of those 'a/c bombs' to clear out all the bacteria and get it smelling nice.
  23. jonny-5
    Just replaced the compressor and now the A/C works great - icey cold air, just in time for winter lol.
  24. jonny-5
    Results from pressure testing: Before re-charge: Low side = 5.5 BAR, High side = 6 BAR After re-charge: Low side = 5 BAR, high side = 7 BAR Pretty sure it's the compressor at fault now. Any other (less expensive) suggestions?
  25. jonny-5
    Right just VAG-COM'd it, the only fault found was the vehicle speed sensor, which i'm not sure affects it. Ran the car with the A/C on full load. The checked if the compressor engages - which it does, then I unplugged the pressure switch which caused the compressor to switch off, I then bridged connections 1 and 2 this made the compressor switch on again, then separately I bridged 3 and 4, this made the fans come on. I didn't run it for long like this but I think the pipes were starting to get to their correct temperatures. I'm gunna test the pressures in the pipes at work tomorrow just to che
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