pete23

Any ideas as to how you did this. Same problem and no solution!!! Need to recode mine too - any ideas

Any joy with this problem? I've got a similar issue with my vr... No response from either of my key fobs to de immobilise and allow me to start it. HELP me please!!!

Got a similar problem to this. Key fobs just dont respond to deactivate things. Changed all batteries but still no joy. How much was it to get the alarm removed and did it solve the problem??

Theres a 9:1 spacer for sale on this site i think. Have a look in the for sale section mate

Small update: Was able to start the VR once. +''ve terminal disconnected and reconnected with the key in and ignition on. The console led was not lit so instead of turning the ignition off and trying to reset using the fob I turned the key and the engine fired up. Ran and drove fine but once turned off I was again unable to disarm the alarm / immobiliser using the fob again. LED back to solid red again!!! Very frustrating to say the least. Tried this procedure again but all I get now is a strong engine turnover with no fire up (presumabley a fuel / spark block). Reading other forums I've have

Still stuck with this one guys. Anyone have any other ideas or inspiration??? Xyber, can you expand on the socket reset please - ie: location, leads needed, how this is done etc. Thanks again.

I can post one up over the weekend if needed. But basically its the black rectangular chaped one with two sqaure buttons at the top (one to arm / disarm and the other acts as a panic button). There is an re LED in the top left and a slider on the right. I am fairly sure this is the factory fit alarm / immobiliser and I have a 97 VR6 so ODB2 i think. I would hazzerd a gues at the scorpion 918 from reading other posts. Maybe someone can confirm this???

Bit of an update... Reconnected my battery lastnight with the key already in the ignition in the 'on' position' and was able to fire the old girl up. (The immobilizer light next to the ash tray was off for the 1st time). However when I turned the ignition off I was unable to prevent the cars alarm from sounding and arming itself again. It seems to me as though the key fob just isnt synced with the car anymore. I have two remotes and have tried the 20 second hold down thing mentioned above but cant get it work. The led on the fob simply lights up immediately but then goes out and doesnt flash l

any ideas peeps? I'm really stuck and need the VR back

Replaced my battery this weekend after my old one was flat as a pancake and would no longer hold charge. All connected up the car started fine and all seemed well until I turned the engine off after a short run down my local road. Since then I cannot seem to disarm the immobilser with the key fob and as such cannot start it again!!! The fob battery was relaced a few months back and the small led light lights when the button is pressed so I cannot see this being the source of the problem. Is it possible that the car has lost some codes due to having a flat battery for some time and simply needs

yes mate, its the flexible rubber hose that has two 90 degree bends and an 'accordian' appearance. It runs from the pcv (disc shaped thingy) to the main air intake pipe that runs behind the engine block.

Hi all. I recently fitted a PCV breather which i bought from Fords for £25. When i fitted it i noticed the flexible breather pipe which connects it to the main air intake pipe is also broken and causing a drip of oil onto my exhaust manifold wrap. And its now abit stinky when stationary. I was wondering if any of you know where i can get this piece of pipe cheaply or if anyone knows the part number? Pic of the pipe i need below. http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee167/xXR3DEyeXx/vrsplitpipe.jpg Thanks alot in advance. Pete

anyone

Morning, My gearbox engine mount is completely goosed so have bought a new one to replace it with. Having searched for the procedure I think I know roughly what I am to do. Question is, is there an easy way to get to the bolts without accessing from the top of the engine to eliminate the possibility of rounding the bolts. Obviouly to do this you need a very long extension piece and 'angled' adaptor (not sure of the technical name). Any help / tips and tricks are appreciated. Thanks

Currently running a set of T1-R-s but as it has been said, they do wear down very quickly due to their softness. What kinda prices have you been paying for your tyres recently. I heard that their is some good deals to be had on the T1-R's since they are now an 'old' mould?