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Picked up a bit of a shed not so long ago which I plan on restoring, its a 3 door mystic blue vr6 with about 109k on the clock. Needs a fair bit of work. both sills need repairing (rust/corrosion) jacking points (rust/corrosion) Hole in the floor, done by previous owner but a poor job as you can see so will be doing this again Possibly a full respray as its had a poor paint job Few bits under the bonnet need attention Heater control only works on 3/4 (ANY TIPS WELCOME) Driver side electric window doesn't work (ANY TIPS WELCOME) Central locking system doesn't work (ANY TIPS WEL

So far nothing unfortunately still haven't had the chance, just had a child aswel so thats set me back

Any updates?

It cost me just shy of £1000, i had the inner and outer sills done, jacking points (reinforced) all the arches where ever there was rust, floor panel as it was patched up previously by a cartoon character lol.. also the drain holes i got rid of. Still a long list of things to do before i send it for a full paint job. The Weather and "covid" doesn't help. Hopefully will start making time during the day to do the odd few jobs. If it was sat on my drive i would most likely crack on but now that the welding has been done i have dried stored it.

Sounds like good progress! The list must be getting shorter hopefully, I'm still adding to my list! Sill welding looks neat, what sort of dollar did that cost . . . .

Got the car back, lots of work done to it, so far its solid now no rust issues. Its dry stored now so At least its out the poor weather. I don't even have it in me to start work on it lol but i guess i will need to start on it. I think i will start by getting the new heater blower and new resistor in hopefully this will fix the heater blower issue i have (works on full only at the moment) then i guess its on to cleaning and degreasing the inside and start on some rust prevention paint.

Just been looking through the parts diagrams for a New Year's keeping busy task lol, there's the usual radiator 3 pin temp switch that is usually the hoses side of the rad just below the top hose, there's another oddity - looks like a fan series resistor is fitted for the various fan speeds like a heater fan resistor - so I guess if that goes faulty then the fan would only work in max mode (like the upper temp 105 deg switch being tripped). Items are 6: Fan Switch 1H0 959 481B for the 3 pin, there's a 2 pin listed as well 06A 919 501 A. The series resistor 2 is 7M0959506A and is only used on S

Merry Christmas and a happy new year

After having my grey VR apart to do the crack pipe after changing the oil cooler that was putting oil into the coolant, I ended up changing all the housings onto the head because I was just chasing new leaks - in the end the thermostat elbow, sensor housing and crack pipe elbow and all o-ring seals - there were fine little cracks that were allowing coolant to get past the head o-ring 2 - and also the new crack pipe top o-ring into 19 had a little cut in it when donkey here assembled it all up. Those plastics warp and are generally not so good if original. The head o-ring 2 in the pic will run

Do you have any photos of the area where it’s leaking from? probably unrelated, but worth ruling out for peace of mind as this is a common mistake a lot of people make.

Never had that before but it’s not beyond the realms of possibility but I didn’t expect it to protrude into the coolant system ?

Just joined so I thought I would hello. Mk4 Golf fan here. I own a MK4 V6 3 door with a few mods, R32 suspension and R32 alloys and induction kit etc. Low milage about 82000. Shes in stunning condition and only goes out on weekends, Owned it for about 4 years now. I also own a MK4 1.6 16V as my daily run around for work. First Golf was a 2.0 GTI which I blew the head gasket in. Anyway im pleased to be here and hope to learn a thing or two. Cheers all...Rich