Jump to content

cranks but takes ages to fire...


Recommended Posts

well my fpr breather pipe is dry, so i can rule that out! i don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing... still no closer to fixing the problem!

reckon i'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new hall sensor after all that's what came up on diagnostics.

i don't get how it is broken though!?!

Katie :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

The hall sender performs the same function as the contacts in a conventional distributor - it tells the coilpack when to send voltage to each of the spark plugs. I would have thought that a problem with the hall sender would result in regular misfiring while running, not just troublesome starting.

Your problem sounds more like a fuelling system issue.

Is the car always difficult to start regardless of whether the engine is cold or warm? Is it worse when cold or warm?

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's the same all the time. The hall sensor error came up on diagnostics and it does run a bit rough on tick over (sounds like it's running on 5).

My first thought too was to check the fuelling system out, but I can't see any obvious problems, unless there's a problem with the pump? When I turn the key it sounds like the fuel rail primes with fuel, but then the fpr only kicks in a split second before it decides to start!?!

Any ideas Nick?

Thanks, Katie :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

i got my new switch put in last friday,and it helped on mine,toke half an hour so that´s like 25pounds for fitting and it cost 30-40 euro´s,but since last summer ihave changed the fuel pump(died because the filter had not been changed)but the relay(after run one) first didn´t help,the a new fuelpressure regulator(didn´t help but then every thing in the fuel system is new)had my injectors cleaned when i had my engine rebuild.kate get the new uprated switch it´s totaly black,the old ones are white the one in mine was inbetween half black and half white.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Will do RIX, cheers for that!

My VR is now in storage till I get back from Germany in September! I'll pick up the switch while I'm in Germany along with a few other bits!

When I get back I'm getting the ignition switch changed, some head work done (i spy some oil seepage!), the bottom end checked out, timing chains, tensioners and guide rails changed (a rattle has just started! 87k!) and while the lump's out I'll give the beast a new clutch!!

That's what student loans are for!! !lol

Katie :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've checked the fueling side of things and cleaned the hall sensor as well as tried leaving the ignition on for a few secs before turning it over, and it's not the chip in the dash or key fob immobilising it (because this would allow it to start and die), so I'm guessing it will either be the hall sensor or the ignition switch. So when I get back I'm going to try the ignition switch first as apparently a fault code is not thrown up when this is faulty. Will have to wait till sept though (when I get my car back!!)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 10 years later...

Thread resurrection here! I've converted my obd1 corrado to obd2 and am using an emulator to bypass the ecu immobiliser. When cold my car starts immediately.  But when warm it also takes an age to fire with a prolonged crank. Ignition switch is fairly new  (vw) leadss are new (bbt) and there are no errors via vcds (except  06688) which didn't come back after clearing,  running and rescanning. Welcome any suggestions. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
×
×
  • Create New...